My cruise was not working so I purchased a used vss. Once I removed the gauges I found the original vss had the fiber optic cables spliced with regular wire connectors and the vss was not plugged in by radio. Put new one in and cruise works good but car seems to stumble under hard acceleration now. What do you think could be the problem and why would the previous owner have it unhooked?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Vss
- Thread starter skidlid
- Start date
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
It may be that the speedometer cable is bad, does the speedo-needle waver at all? With the VSS now working the ECM is also getting a VSS signal (should have had a SES light from it not being there to the ECM).
As for the speedometer cable, I saw a log a good while ago where the ECM would cut off the injectors on WOT shifts. The issue was the speedometer cable wrapping up and releasing, causing the ECM to go into vehicle speed limiting mode (fuel cut).
RemoveBeforeFlight
As for the speedometer cable, I saw a log a good while ago where the ECM would cut off the injectors on WOT shifts. The issue was the speedometer cable wrapping up and releasing, causing the ECM to go into vehicle speed limiting mode (fuel cut).
RemoveBeforeFlight
The speedo seems to move fine, just seems like it shifts bad maybe. Under 45 hard acceleration is fine. Once past that it seems to hang and miss? Worked fine before I did installation this morning. It did have a code 24 before, and the service engine light would come on from that once and a while.
I unhooked the vss and took it for a spin. It still acted the same. As I came to a stop sign it died. The battery was dead. Luckily I had a battery box with. Could having the doors open to long wear out the battery enough that it would run but not have enough voltage for the car to run normal? I am charging it now and will try to drive it later.
RmvBfrFlght
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2007
Good troubleshooting with the VSS. It apparently isn't the issue.
The alternator isn't charging, that is an issue. Do a key-on, engine-off, look for the VOLTS dash light. It has to be lit up, if not than the alternator won't charge. And if not lit up, a search here will drown you in info to fix this.
RemoveBeforeFlight
The alternator isn't charging, that is an issue. Do a key-on, engine-off, look for the VOLTS dash light. It has to be lit up, if not than the alternator won't charge. And if not lit up, a search here will drown you in info to fix this.
RemoveBeforeFlight
Does the "volt" light come on when you turn the key on but don't start the engine? If it doesn't then your alternator is NOT charging the battery. You had the dash apart. Check the volt bulb and socket if it is not coming on.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I will have to check socket I changed bulb still outThat is why your battery died. The volt light is part of the charging circuit for the alternator. Check the bulb and socket. The socket often corrodes and it may need cleaning.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
I think tomorrow I will loosen the gauge again and check the contacts for that as well as the bulb socket and the contact for the socket. Probably the gauge is just not pushed in correctly to its plug. The signal, high beam, and service engine all light up.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 9
- Views
- 768
- Replies
- 6
- Views
- 814