Valve body question

I don't *think* I would have done this, but I have in the past... Most shift kits have you delete the tv exhaust ball and plunger. I'm not running the plunger, but could have put the ball back in. That would cause full tv pressure all the time right?

I'm in agreement with you on the tv pressure being too high. That's what it acts like.

The wierd thing for me is that it lugs the motor down at idle in forward gears only.
 
You need a 0-300 psi pressure guage setup to screw into a 1/8 NPT port.
You'll probably want a 90* fitting so you can screw it in there and out of the way of the shift linkage.
 
Ok, I grabbed a 0-300 psi liquid filled gauge with an 8 foot hose. I got a 1/8" npt 90 elbow into a JIC to make attaching the pressure gauge easier.

What kind of readings will help the most in determining what's wrong with this pig?
 
Get the min. TV press. readings & the max. TV readings in each gear. Also watch the rise in press. as you pull the TV cable to max. Try it at about a 1000-1500 rpm.
 
Turbo Riviera said:
I just drove it again, and here's what I noticed:

1. Starts in 2nd gear
2. Engine idles as expected in PRN, but when put in OD,D,2,1 it will slowly drag the motor down and usually kill the engine.


I think I've somehow jacked up this valve body.
Click to expand...
This may be an improperly installed pressure regulator valve/spring. You will see when you put the gauge on if the pressure climbs toward 500psi:eek: . The IAC cant work fast enough or runs out of stroke to keep the engine form stalling from the added drag.
 
Ok, I got the pressure gauge put on it tonight... Thanks Jake for making me buy that gauge! I don't have any idea how I've gotten through my past trans rebuilds without one...

First thing's first: Disregard any prior complaints I've had with this trans, because none of them really apply now. That's not to say that it's perfect though. I got the gauge on and pulled out of the driveway to go for a ride, and it acted like it was slipping, so I pulled it back in the garage right away and checked the fluid. I just replaced what I had drained last night and figured it would be close enough. Yeah... so 3 quarts later it's full. Woops! I can't believe I was so stupid there. After double checking the TV cable adjustment, I took it for a drive, and here's what I found:

In OD and D, the torque converter clutch is locked up no matter what after it shifts into second. I'm sure that was what was lugging the motor and killing it last night. If you leave it in OD or D and roll to a stop, it kills the motor. I have the solenoid installed, but the electrical connector is NOT connected to the side of the transmission.

1-2 shift is crisp and appears to be essentially "on time" from the short drive I took.

2-3 is still pretty soggy, and late. It hangs around in 2nd for quite some time before hitting 3rd.

I have yet to see 4th gear in any circumstance. If I leave it in OD and get off the gas, it will freewheel, but stay in 2nd or 3rd if I get back on the gas.

I was only able to get idle pressures because it was quite dark. EDIT: I was able to get some part throttle pressures... They don't change from idle numbers at all.

Park idle - 60-65 psi
Reverse idle - 105 psi
Neutral idle - 60-65 psi
OD idle - 60 psi
D idle - 60 psi
2 idle - 120-135 (is it normal to vary that much?)
1 idle - 120-130 (same question)

During the test drive I found that for the most part I had to keep it in manual 2nd so that it wouldn't kill the motor at a bad time.
 
Here's my "expert" opinion on what is going on here... The real experts will probably have a different opinion.

I believe that the 1-2 shift is crisp because of the added lower gear pressures. The 2-3 shift is soggy because 60 psi isn't enough to properly apply the direct clutches. I belive jakeshoe's speculation about the TV circuit to be correct. Since there is no change in line pressure, the valve has to be stuck. The cable adjusts properly, so I know it didn't come disconnected. I'll yank the tv circuits out to see what is causing it to stick.


What I can't figure out: What is up with the converter clutch locking up when there is no electrical power going to the solenoid?
 
OK,
Yes you have what looks to me to be a stuck TV boost valve. Check it, it's in the pump, part of the PR valvetrain.
If it has done it with two VBs, check that first.
The reverse boost valve is working and that is why you have higher pressers in manual low/2nd and reverse.

Pop the TV boost valve out, check it, shake it with your finger over the end, it is probably stuck down in the bore.

I've had a couple of NEW .500 boost valves stick on me, and a .570 boost valve so I ALWAYS polish these things before I install them.

Do that first, and if it is stuck, don't even drop the VB, just re-assemble and go.:biggrin:
 
jakeshoe said:
OK,
Yes you have what looks to me to be a stuck TV boost valve. Check it, it's in the pump, part of the PR valvetrain.
If it has done it with two VBs, check that first.
The reverse boost valve is working and that is why you have higher pressers in manual low/2nd and reverse.

Pop the TV boost valve out, check it, shake it with your finger over the end, it is probably stuck down in the bore.

I've had a couple of NEW .500 boost valves stick on me, and a .570 boost valve so I ALWAYS polish these things before I install them.

Do that first, and if it is stuck, don't even drop the VB, just re-assemble and go.:biggrin:
Click to expand...


LOL the one part of the front pump I didn't pull apart... Damn the luck.
 
While I'm in there, I think I'll pull the TCC valving out of the pump too...

This pump had just a touch of surface rust inside on the vanes from sitting for a while. I wonder if the valves might have some of the same rust on them causing my problems with the TCC instead of the solenoid. Couldn't hurt I guess to check them.I should have been smart enough to pull the valves and check them. Well, live and learn I guess.
 
Ok, I pulled the PR valve assy and found that there *might* be one sticking. It didn't seem like it was, but I had a spare one that seemed a bit smoother so I put that one in instead. It's now back in the pump.

I didn't pull the converter clutch valve, because I can compress the valve & spring assy from the outside retainer. That should be a sign that it's not sticking right?

If I just delete the TCC solenoid entirely, it shouldn't lock up at all right? No harm to the trans from what I can tell...
 
I tried testing the TCC solenoid by blowing air in the tip of it and energizing the solenoid. Air flows through it at the same rate with or without electrical hookup. Also the elec. connector seemed to short out when I energized it. Sounds to me like it's bad.
 
Turbo Riviera said:
I tried testing the TCC solenoid by blowing air in the tip of it and energizing the solenoid. Air flows through it at the same rate with or without electrical hookup. Also the elec. connector seemed to short out when I energized it. Sounds to me like it's bad.
Click to expand...

Did you have the polarity correct? There's an internal diode across the solenoid.
 
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