Update and photos on T/A block

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by broke1
What black peice??Why is it called a kidney plate??Im stoopid so im gonna need some schoolin.

Those are all the questions I was trying to ask. In too few words I guess.

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by broke1
What black peice??Why is it called a kidney plate??Im stoopid so im gonna need some schoolin.

Why they call it a kidney plate is beyond me- maybe because it is scaped like a kidney. You can see it insstalled on page 2 of the photos. After you remove the metal heat guard on heater/AC box, you take off the top on the AC box and remove the heater core. Then you have it made a thin as possible- my was reduced to 1" in thickness. Then before you reinstall it- you cut out a section of the fibreglass AC box right where the metal heat shield was. Then with the new fibreglass piece (kidney plate) - you cut and fit that to fit and fasten it in place. The metal heat shield is no longer used. This gives you much more room to access the heads, valve covers and spark plug at #6. Keep in mind the Kidney plate is inverted "in" toward the heat exchanger- see the photo and then look at your own set up. Hope this helps. Larry

 

[Justin Terry]

Just some questions.
What heads will you be using and what do they flow.
And why are I-beam rods being used.
What kinda pistons are they and whats the compression.
Whats the rod length and what kinda rings are they 3/16 or .043

 

[BobbyBuick]

Larry,LOOKIN GOOD.Ill see you next week .dont forget to take time to polish my sway BAR

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by Justin Terry
Just some questions.
What heads will you be using and what do they flow.
And why are I-beam rods being used.
What kinda pistons are they and whats the compression.
Whats the rod length and what kinda rings are they 3/16 or .043

I am using the new T/A heads - flowed at 255 intake and 210 exhaust. The rods were chosen by Mike. I do not know recall the brand of piston, but- I believe there are 8:1. The rods are 6.30's and as yet I do not know the specs on the rings. Over the past two years we have talked about everything in the motor. With time however-I just can not remember all the details. Larry

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
I have the Kidney Plate on my car. Larry's pictures are a lot like mine and he did it about the same. Originally an ATR design to fit the Stage 2 Engine in Shirley's T so to clear the head on that side and it allows removing the head without removing the head studs. On my 109 engine the head can be removed without removing the head studs. Kidney name might mean a lower position on the side of the engine? Enough people request these maybe ATR might make them again. I bought mine complete from ATR and it included the heater core. The heater core was made in CA and not sure about the plate mold. Any more word on you engine Larry? Gene

I talked to mike 4/23- pickup tube is in and they are completing the final assy. As I spoke with Mike- they were checking on pricing to get the motor to the east coast. So- I would think its about a done deal . Larry

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by BobbyBuick
Larry,LOOKIN GOOD.Ill see you next week .dont forget to take time to polish my sway BAR

Sad news- someone broke into my garage last week. They never touch my car or the $1000. bill I had on the work bench. The only thing they took was that rusty old sway bar Larry

 

[Justin Terry]

Are the heads getting ported by anyone. And does anyone have any ported T/A heads and what do they flow. Thanks

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by Larry
I am using the new T/A heads - flowed at 255 intake and 210 exhaust. The rods were chosen by Mike. I do not know recall the brand of piston, but- I believe there are 8:1. The rods are 6.30's and as yet I do not know the specs on the rings. Over the past two years we have talked about everything in the motor. With time however-I just can not remember all the details. Larry

Pistons should be JE, as that is what Mike generally uses.

Rods were done by Crower as is the crank.

Larry, you may want to get a shipping quote from Haas Industries who is an advertiser on this board. Make sure to mention you are a member here. They have handled shipping of many engines for me, and others, at very reasonable rates.

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by Justin Terry
Are the heads getting ported by anyone. And does anyone have any ported T/A heads and what do they flow. Thanks

Mike ported them and those were the numbers- 255 /210 Larry

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by Nick Micale
Pistons should be JE, as that is what Mike generally uses.

Rods were done by Crower as is the crank.

Larry, you may want to get a shipping quote from Haas Industries who is an advertiser on this board. Make sure to mention you are a member here. They have handled shipping of many engines for me, and others, at very reasonable rates.

Thanks Nick- I will call him today. Larry

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
Larry, having talked to Mike, he informed me the TA Heads are realy beefy in the right places. They look like bronze guides are used and I'm sure more porting could be done to them. The extra material used in their castings will allow this. I can't wait to hear this beast run and be sure to video tape the first run and share it with us who is waiting in the launches! (pun intended) Mike did tell me he uses JE Pistons and like Nick said: Crower makes the rods and crank! Are you using a DFI? What size TB and Plenum? Keep us informed Bud! Gene

Yes, I knew crowler made these parts, I just could not recall the pistons or the ring specs. I am reusing my 70 mm set up I had bought from Precision. I also run the FAST sys. I will let you know when I get it and when its up and running. Once I get it, I will have to fit my KB headers and then send them out to Jet Coating inside and out. I will pick up the trans in Norwalk this weekend. Then its time to order a driveshaft and Torque converter and a shifter. So- I got some things to do yet. And when it finnally goes down the track the first time- it will go so slow - I would probably be able to "run" quicker. Should be pretty exciting and nerve racking. Larry

 

[2 SLOW]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
I have the Kidney Plate on my car. Larry's pictures are a lot like mine and he did it about the same. Originally an ATR design to fit the Stage 2 Engine in Shirley's T so to clear the head on that side and it allows removing the head without removing the head studs. On my 109 engine the head can be removed without removing the head studs. Kidney name might mean a lower position on the side of the engine? Enough people request these maybe ATR might make them again. I bought mine complete from ATR and it included the heater core. The heater core was made in CA and not sure about the plate mold.
Any more word on you engine Larry? Gene

Several years ago I bought the kidney plate and heater core from ATR. I called and asked if it really would heat as well as the stock heater, and they swore it would. What a crock! Just like the rest of their products that don't fit right or work right. I guess they will tell you whatever it takes to sell you something.

I installed it and couldn't keep warm unless the outside temp was over 45-48 degrees. If it was lower you froze your toosh off. Unless you live in Florida I would not recommend it. By the way it was also put in another car with the same results. We put the stock heater core back in, which was a butt to do. Like anyone that would do this, the car has mods including a 160 stat. I guess you could put in a 195 stat for the winter, but you would also need a chip for a 195 stat as well. I don't want to run a 195 stat anytime in my car. Maybe other people have had better luck with this than we did, but with the tiny heater core they give you I don't know how.

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by 2 SLOW
Several years ago I bought the kidney plate and heater core from ATR. I called and asked if it really would heat as well as the stock heater, and they swore it would. What a crock! Just like the rest of their products that don't fit right or work right. I guess they will tell you whatever it takes to sell you something.

I installed it and couldn't keep warm unless the outside temp was over 45-48 degrees. If it was lower you froze your toosh off. Unless you live in Florida I would not recommend it. By the way it was also put in another car with the same results. We put the stock heater core back in, which was a butt to do. Like anyone that would do this, the car has mods including a 160 stat. I guess you could put in a 195 stat for the winter, but you would also need a chip for a 195 stat as well. I don't want to run a 195 stat anytime in my car. Maybe other people have had better luck with this than we did, but with the tiny heater core they give you I don't know how.

Dennis, I have not run mine- but, I would not be surprised to find you are 100% in all you say - including- "what do I gotta do to sell it to ya today" Larry

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
I believe the 160* thermostat does a lot to how hot your heater output gets not the heater core. Who drives their car in the winter anyway. I did mine to clear the head not to reduce the heater output. (my A/C works great even with a FM IC) I don't think Larry is going to run his 17K TA Motor in NY Winters either. Maybe He is going to plow snow with this Race GN! Are you Larry?Who needs heat anyway, it is a source of Detonation, ask Duttweiller. Gene

Nah- I would not run in the winters we have here ( near Bflo,NY). But, in october there are some cool clear days when it would be nice to have a little heat while waiting in the staging lanes. Larry

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by ILBCNU6
Larry, just have been reading about the World Products new Aluminum SBC block in the June 04 Hot Rod magazine. A lot like the TA Casting with the beefy added reinforcement lifter valley ribs and thicker bulkheads. One thing they mentioned was the frost plugs are a screw in version instead of a push in type because the aluminum expansion rate will cause the standard type plugs to fall out. I would check this out because it might be the case with the TA Block? The price is much the same as TA but offers different type main caps as an option and only 4 bolts instead of the 6 bolts. Makes the TA look even better! Just another thought to pounder and looking out for our interest. Gene PS. Who needs heat in the cold weather wearing a full SFI Flame Suit, maybe the air would be better. Ha Ha LOL

T/A blocks use screw in plugs.

 

[steveX]

i am doing a stage II 4.1 setup with the aluminum champion R header and i will like to know where did you get the black piece of mater/plastic for the climater control box.

here is what i am talking about. Thanks

 

[Larry]

Originally posted by steveX
i am doing a stage II 4.1 setup with the aluminum champion R header and i will like to know where did you get the black piece of mater/plastic for the climater control box.

here is what i am talking about. Thanks

Billy Anderson. Larry

 

[Larry]

Talked with Mike at the Buick event at Norwalk Last week and then today ( 5/10)- motor to be shipped end of this week. Vince Janis brought the 400 Trans to Norwalk as he promissed. Built with Rossler billet parts and rosslers brake - Thanks Vince!. Getting closer to "take off"! Yikes - its been two years. My goal is to make the BPG Nationals in August. Larry

 

[steveX]

Larry, i am planning on running a solid roller cam in my stage motor. i have one question. How hard is it to remove the passenger side valve cover? i would like to know this cause i will like to know how hard with will be to make adjustment on that side roller rocker.

if this will be has much as removing the valve cover will no clearance issue then this will be a sweeter deal for my street car.

thanks