Up **** creek and have some smog tests

If you go to the chips and emissions forums and do some searches you should find discussion on what changes are in most emissions chips. Mostly fan temps back to stock, idle speeds raised, and some other little stuff. Even with a 160 thermostat unless it's 20 degrees outside if you raise the fan on/off temps in the chip the engine will warm up to the fan settings. Just taking the stock emissions chip (bbjk) and changing the injector constant to match yours, and fixing the checksum, is all you most likely will need to do. If you are not using one of the chip editing programs like winbin or tunerpro, but a hex editor, set the first two bytes to zero and then calculate the checksum of the entire image. Then store that checksum in the first two bytes and burn the chip. If you got it right the check engine light will blink once then stay on, if it's wrong it will blink very fast, constantly.

With 50 lb/hr injectors I don't think you should worry about turning down the fuel pressure below 43 psi, they should spray well enough not to hurt anything. If you do turn it down, tweak the injector constant so your idle blm is about 130-135 at the lower fuel pressure since the next few blm cells where the engine will be at light throttle will usually be lower than the idle blm.
 
If you go to the chips and emissions forums and do some searches you should find discussion on what changes are in most emissions chips. Mostly fan temps back to stock, idle speeds raised, and some other little stuff. Even with a 160 thermostat unless it's 20 degrees outside if you raise the fan on/off temps in the chip the engine will warm up to the fan settings. Just taking the stock emissions chip (bbjk) and changing the injector constant to match yours, and fixing the checksum, is all you most likely will need to do. If you are not using one of the chip editing programs like winbin or tunerpro, but a hex editor, set the first two bytes to zero and then calculate the checksum of the entire image. Then store that checksum in the first two bytes and burn the chip. If you got it right the check engine light will blink once then stay on, if it's wrong it will blink very fast, constantly.

With 50 lb/hr injectors I don't think you should worry about turning down the fuel pressure below 43 psi, they should spray well enough not to hurt anything. If you do turn it down, tweak the injector constant so your idle blm is about 130-135 at the lower fuel pressure since the next few blm cells where the engine will be at light throttle will usually be lower than the idle blm.

Im sure once Ive had someone next to me helping me through it, and I burn 1 chip, everything you said will probably make sense. But for now I have no idea. Thanks for posting though.
The other night, I hooked my EGR stuff back up. Last night, I put a stock unmolested up-pipe back on (no Alky hookups), the stock intake tube and stock MAF...Bye bye translator, LS1 MAF, Intake tube, bypass valve, etc. I have the stock intake tube elbow where the IAT sensor screws in. I had never seen a stock setup, so I kinda guessed with how it goes together. The air filter drops down to the steering box, right? I had to bring my fuel pressure down to about 34psi static and set the BLM offset to 5, and the BLM's are alot more stable around 128 than they ever were with the LS1 MAF. I always thought that the extender chip and translator/LS1 have to work hand in hand, but they dont. You can run the stock MAF with an extender chip. And now that I think about it, theres no reason to think anything else. The car runs surprisingly well with this ugly crap on it. The intake tube looks like its about to rip open into a million pieces...the coil is popping out in different spots, the fabric is all rubbed down. I didnt know what wires went where when I was hooking it all back up to the stock MAF. I had the wires put in wrong...out of order and immediately got a code 34. I found an old post of mine where I asked the same question, and got it back together right. MAF signal is very good. As for the fan turning on...I can drive 35 miles without the fan coming on, cause the F-Body radiator is so good. I really dont wanna hook the wastegate solenoid back up. It spools so f'ing slow with that thing vs my little fine tuning bleeder. Well, thats where Im at. Now I just need an emissions chip and my header crack welded up.
 
Is there anyone who could walk me through this programming tonight? Adding up the checksum and all that...no idea what that means. Theres a driver and a program for this programmer which I downloaded. You boot up in DOS and type emp20, to bring up that program. Then you select the chip type, and all the other stuff I dont get at all. Id like to be able to pull up the stock program off that chip and save it. Then alter a copy for the 50's and dump that on the chip. I guess this is the hex editor thing u were talking about. There was a communications issue. The programmer guy said he thought it was cause you need a different version of DOS or something...dont know why. But the troubleshooting page for the EMP 20 said that this problem can happen with computers that have a processor speed above 800mgz, and to bring up the delay for the parallel port all the way up to 255...and it says how to get in there and implement that. But I really dont know what Im doing. Ive never seen anything like this and dont have the time or spare disposable chips to figure it all out. I really dont want to risk erasing this chip by accident. I have 1 stock chip and 1 stock chip with pulled timing. The 2nd is the one Id like to use, and dump the turbotweak program on it. Changing the injector constant on the stock chip wouldnt give me all the added smog benefits that the full blown emissions chip would give me. Im also concerned about this ECM I.D. not matching issue someone brought up. If anyone can help me with this it would be incredible...
 
The chip, and turbo inlet adapter will go out this morning, UPS Gnd.
It's an MSD 50 smog chip I burned for myself while I was living in San Diego. Got me through with flying colors, even test only stations!!
I used a new cat. converter (TH) and of course the chip has functioning EGR.
 
The chip, and turbo inlet adapter will go out this morning, UPS Gnd.
It's an MSD 50 smog chip I burned for myself while I was living in San Diego. Got me through with flying colors, even test only stations!!
I used a new cat. converter (TH) and of course the chip has functioning EGR.
Dave...you have no idea. Same to you Jerryl. Who says there are no decent GM people out there? Its so awesome to have people who help out like this, sight unseen. Killer Christmas present!
 
Well the programmer came in today unannounced with a bootable DOS CD with the programmer software on it. I also have a chip copier and eraser. I now have the turbotweak emissions chip for the 50's, and between Dave, Jerryl and Dean (the programmer buddy), I now totally understand hexidecimal, and checksums and all that stuff. Burning a chip is super easy. Now I just have to learn how to write/alter the code for future fun. Thanks to everyone.
So where should I go to start learning how to write code for these cars?
 
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