TTA wont start when hot

mikestertwo said:
Why don't you think the coolant sensor is the problem? Do you have any data? Scan Master? Powerlogger?
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I don't know if it's the problem or not. I'm just bypassing it with a toggle switch to allow the car to start when hot. I have a scan master but don't know how to check my temp sensor with it.
 
mikestertwo said:
Toggle the display until it reads CLt. That will give you the coolant temperature reading.
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Oh, ya ya, that's what I've been using to monitor my engine temp. And when I toggle the coolant sensor off I think it gave a negative number for coolant temperature.
 
mikestertwo said:
What does the sensor read when you have the hot start issue?
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It reads the actual coolant temperature. The more I was messing with trying to figure out what was wrong with the car the more I was monoriting the scan master for actual temp. Initially I thought it had to get to about 190 degrees to get into a not start status. But the more I noticed it, I only had to get to about 165 degrees to have a problem. And as I kept feeling by hand different components, i.e., ignition module, cam sensor, crank sensor. I noticed none of them were really that hot that I thought that it should affect the engine starting. That's when I tried popping off the coolant temperature sensor connector and starting it. And to my surprise it started while hot.
 
Almost sounds like you have a fueling issue. With the sensor disconnected the computer increases the injector pulse width for "cold start". Either you have a injector driver problem or a fuel pressure issue.
 
I had this issue before I had fuel pressure gauges inside my cars and the actual fuel psi was low 20's and gave me the same symptoms you describe. My fuel pump hose in the tank was rotted away and I think the guy that had it before me had used vacuum instead of fuel line. Short piece from the pump to the hanger in the tank.
 
Cold start = more fuel.
Hot start w/ sensor unplugged = -38* to the ecm = cold start fuel.
Car sat for 5 yrs...What did you do w/ the injectors, when you restarted it?
Voltage in the 11+ volt range is not a good scenario.
 
Chuck Leeper said:
Cold start = more fuel.
Hot start w/ sensor unplugged = -38* to the ecm = cold start fuel.
Car sat for 5 yrs...What did you do w/ the injectors, when you restarted it?
Voltage in the 11+ volt range is not a good scenario.
Click to expand...
I didn't do anything with the injectors after sitting for 5 years. I did have fuel stabilizer in the tank. Then before trying to start up for the first time I siphoned as much gas out as I could get then added 5 gallons of premium with some type of gas addative/fuel system cleaner. Currently I do have a manual gage on the fuel rail. It's set at 42psi. Do you know what voltage I should have at the injectors?
 
We used a racetronics 86/87 Buick injector hot wire kit.

BUT it's easier to just throw $$$$ at it and Time !! Oh....How many guys in here replying to this have or had TTA's It's a Pontiac not a Buick.
 
gethighracewear said:
I didn't do anything with the injectors after sitting for 5 years. I did have fuel stabilizer in the tank. Then before trying to start up for the first time I siphoned as much gas out as I could get then added 5 gallons of premium with some type of gas addative/fuel system cleaner. Currently I do have a manual gage on the fuel rail. It's set at 42psi. Do you know what voltage I should have at the injectors?
Click to expand...

The electrical system operating at 13+, engine running is what I'd look for.
As for the Stabil/gas for 5 yrs. I'd consider myself lucky, if the engine even started.
I clean injs that have been sitting for a yr, that are nasty. Current fuel quality is :poop:.
 
Chuck Leeper said:
The electrical system operating at 13+, engine running is what I'd look for.
As for the Stabil/gas for 5 yrs. I'd consider myself lucky, if the engine even started.
I clean injs that have been sitting for a yr, that are nasty. Current fuel quality is :poop:.
Click to expand...
Okay, so the voltage at the injectors should pretty much match what's actually at the battery if it's tested. Mine was down at least a volt when compared to testing what was at the injectors vs the battery itself hot, cold, running of off. My next buy will be the racetronix harness. Do I need the hot wire kit also? I didn't think my injectors are that big. I have green stripe injectors that I think are 42 lb/hr.
 
Yes the hot wire part of the harness is necessary. I would consider new injectors and a chip from Eric to go with them also. You can have them cleaned and flowed but for a little more I would just replace them. Sitting for 5 years they are likely gummed up and proper fuel delivery in these engines is very important. It's cheaper than replacing the head gaskets if one cylinder leans out.
 
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