TTA Cylinder head torque specs?

Fastair6

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Hello everyone,

I've had a TTA for a little while now and have learned a ton of info from this page. Unfortunately, I don't have a shop manual. I've used the torque specs sticky at the top of the page a number of times, but it doesn't include torque specs or the torque sequence for the cylinder heads.

Can anyone help me out with this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
85 ft lbs. 40, 60, 80, 85

Loctite 567 on threads that go into block. ARP lube under washers/heads of bolts.
 
The actual torque for the heads is 65 ft lbs. There's no need for more, nough said!

Frank
 
I put new head bolts on my car and torqued to 85, drove a bit with boost and then re-torqued to 85, which was definately needed as each bolt had backed off a little. I was running 18 lbs boost. Car runs great.
 
IMO, 65lbs is not enough if your running 25+ boost.:rolleyes:

OK! How long have you had yer car? How many motors have you rebuilt? Your opinion means nothing to me! Your motor is a vin 7 rebuild which means any machine shop will build the bottom end to factory specs hynce "torque plate, 65 ft lbs". If you are trying to accomplish your goals at 25+, yer in for a world of hurt. If you can't do what you want to do at 20, you need to re-think yer mechanical ability. Points of fact: crank shaft (cast iron, has memory, not designed for 25+ boost, will bow), block (low grade cast, low nichol, 0.125 main bearing journals, known to twist and destort under boost.) Now! Addressing the gentelman that posted after you, it is good mechanical policy to check your head torque after 1 heat cycle. But, if you find loose bolts, you either have a bad torque wrench or you have sretched some threads. If yer using ARP head bolts then I'd say you streched the threads in the block.

Guys! This is not a pissin contest! If you have a question, I will do my best to answer it. Like Julio, I've been doin this for a long time but, don't talk trash. There was a question about the Howl & Sharp (I hope that's correct) roller rockers. Well, I don't know much about them because I designed my own, a couple of years earlier for 1/4 the price.
So sport! I ran a 12.8 with ZERO boost, none, natta! Just 6 cylinders and I was just playin. Spend the money, build a motor (pull it, take it apart, come up with the idea's, put it back together and put it in, YOUR SELF) then come talk to me. Now roll yer eye's (.).
 
Factory bolts are torque to yield.

You tq them heads to 65.. put some real boost to them.. you'll lift the head at 20 PSI.

Your 65 ft lbs specs are from ARP. The 85 ft lbs come from those racing these engines with those fasteners :p

If you built your motor using 65.. good luck
 
I've been doin this for a long time but, don't talk trash.

??? Sounds like trash talking to me. It's all good though...:cool: A friend of mine wants to pop his head into this thread to say hello.
 

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Factory bolts are torque to yield.

You tq them heads to 65.. put some real boost to them.. you'll lift the head at 20 PSI.

Your 65 ft lbs specs are from ARP. The 85 ft lbs come from those racing these engines with those fasteners :p

If you built your motor using 65.. good luck

Yawn! Stretch! Mornin Julio! Torque to yield! Lift thu head! Damn! Yer a riot Julio!
 
85 ft lbs. 40, 60, 80, 85

Loctite 567 on threads that go into block. ARP lube under washers/heads of bolts.

+2 I too have been 10s at 130+ with TTA Heads. Listen to this rule of thumb. I also let the motor sit on the stand a little and loosen one bolt/stud at a time and torque back in sequence. I also take some heat guns to heat the engine up to 150 and let it cool and sit. and Repeat process. Repeat and Repeat.

I use studs tho.

Rob Hinson
TTA 1437
 
+2 I too have been 10s at 130+ with TTA Heads. Listen to this rule of thumb. I also let the motor sit on the stand a little and loosen one bolt/stud at a time and torque back in sequence. I also take some heat guns to heat the engine up to 150 and let it cool and sit. and Repeat process. Repeat and Repeat.

I use studs tho.

Rob Hinson
TTA 1437


I agree completely with the studs and heat guns. Will save a lot of work trying to retorque after heat cycle in car.
 
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