Transmission shift points too high!!!
- Thread starter Mr URL
- Start date
Mr URL
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I got the govenor out tonight. Big weight says 5 B and the lighter weight says 6 D. The spring isn't blue. It's silver. The big weight looks like a spring could fit in there but isn't one. I know the TR govenor has one spring but does the large weight supposed to have a place where you can put one? Just trying to make sure I do have a TR govenor and I'm wondering if the spring is wrong in there.
It does look similar to the top pic:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/governor.jpg
It does look similar to the top pic:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/governor.jpg
Mr URL
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I've got a set screw in the govenor now. It lowered the 1-2 shift to 5,925 at 23 psi boost and 2-3 shift to 5,100. With 15 psi boost 1-2 shift is at 5,450 and 2-3 shift at 4,900.
I think it's from the street tires going up in smoke. When this transmission was in my GN with street tires it did the same thing until I went to the track with slicks on. The shift points then lowered to 5,450 1-2 shift and 5,100 2-3 shift. I'm going to wait until I can make a track visit or get some good tires on and see where it's at.
I think it's from the street tires going up in smoke. When this transmission was in my GN with street tires it did the same thing until I went to the track with slicks on. The shift points then lowered to 5,450 1-2 shift and 5,100 2-3 shift. I'm going to wait until I can make a track visit or get some good tires on and see where it's at.
Mr URL
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Could I be overpowering the torque convertor in 1st gear and need a stall change cause it's done this with two different transmissions with the same convertor?? 
I put some BGC 235/60/15 recaps on it. Even though I smoldered them easily too it shifts w/15 psi 1-2 at 5,350 and 2-3 at 4,825. Then I put 21 psi to it shifts are 1-2 at 6,100 and 2-3 shift at 5,275. Thats a 750 rpm difference on the 1-2 shift?
Dunno.......about ready to quit for the year...I hate transmissions....
Bruce, I'll be giving you a buzz to see what you might have up your sleeve!
I put some BGC 235/60/15 recaps on it. Even though I smoldered them easily too it shifts w/15 psi 1-2 at 5,350 and 2-3 at 4,825. Then I put 21 psi to it shifts are 1-2 at 6,100 and 2-3 shift at 5,275. Thats a 750 rpm difference on the 1-2 shift?
Dunno.......about ready to quit for the year...I hate transmissions....
Bruce, I'll be giving you a buzz to see what you might have up your sleeve!
Mr URL
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Here's some files from tonight with the slicks on just for grins:
http://midwestracing.hostin.com/downloads/WH1slicks.zip
shifts 1-2: 5,750 2-3: 5,075
They where made with 22 psi boost.
http://midwestracing.hostin.com/downloads/WH1slicks.zip
shifts 1-2: 5,750 2-3: 5,075
They where made with 22 psi boost.
Not that unusual, trust me....
PUMP BODY: First, never use a pump body twice unless you are reinstalling the SAME pump rotor,slide,and veins,
that came out of the running trans. If you are going to reuse,modify pump body as will be explained and reinstall. If pump rotor,slide and or body needs to be replaced start with a "refinished" body. The ONLY way to correctly do this is a tideous and time consuming method. First, our experiance has led us to use GM parts EXCLUSIVLY and they must be ordered in sets from them(GM) at the request of the builder. They must be exact to .002. This is how we do it and have been commended on it by GM themselves:.......
It is imperitive that the pump rotor and slide are measured very carefully. They MUST be within .002 of the pump cavity depth.
Too loose and line pressure will be low hot, and too tight, rotor and slide could bind, and break rotor, slide,converter neck,or all the forementioned parts. We set them .0013 in the hole, or in the "pocket". The way this is done is, the face is cut, or surfaced. Then another tool bit comes in and with the premeasured rotor and slide thickness', cuts it to .0013 clearence. This is VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
PUMP BODY: First, never use a pump body twice unless you are reinstalling the SAME pump rotor,slide,and veins,
that came out of the running trans. If you are going to reuse,modify pump body as will be explained and reinstall. If pump rotor,slide and or body needs to be replaced start with a "refinished" body. The ONLY way to correctly do this is a tideous and time consuming method. First, our experiance has led us to use GM parts EXCLUSIVLY and they must be ordered in sets from them(GM) at the request of the builder. They must be exact to .002. This is how we do it and have been commended on it by GM themselves:.......
It is imperitive that the pump rotor and slide are measured very carefully. They MUST be within .002 of the pump cavity depth.
Too loose and line pressure will be low hot, and too tight, rotor and slide could bind, and break rotor, slide,converter neck,or all the forementioned parts. We set them .0013 in the hole, or in the "pocket". The way this is done is, the face is cut, or surfaced. Then another tool bit comes in and with the premeasured rotor and slide thickness', cuts it to .0013 clearence. This is VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
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