Transmission Not Shifting out of 1st (Need Help, Please)

[phrosty]

Black and non-magnetic is burnt clutch material.

Some sludge is usually normal but the fact the fluid was changed
less then 200 miles ago and there is already a significant amount
of sludge in the pan is a problem.

Sludge around 1/8" thick over the whole floor of the pan is not normal.

You may get lucky cleaning out the VB and checking for sticky valves
but with the unknown history of your reman tranny I'd venture to say it
is time for a rebuild.

Tranmission Fluid Recommendations:

• Dextron 6 (first choice)
  -Offers good shift quality with additional heat protection. Not as firm as Type F but
  firmer than Dex 3.
  
  
• Type F
  -Best shift quality and firmness. However does not provide the heat protection of
  Dex 6. Should be changed as soon as you notice the color start to change to a darker color
  
  
• Dextron 3 (last choice)
  -Offers smoothest shift quality but must be changed often.

 

[wiseman]

Man! Just news I was trying to avoid. Also I have Code 43 showing up on the scan master which is a ESC Module Code......it just doesn't end?

If I need to get it Rebuilt, I want a really sturdy seup. Any pointers for the right parts to get put into the tranny to make it really solid and durable?

 

[phrosty]

I hear ya...if its not one thing its another

check out:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/attention-new-version-strengthening-the-2004r.31365/

Gives some really good insight on how to strengthen the 200r4

 

[wiseman]

Thanks for the link, phrosty! I pulled my pan again last night, just to take one last look before I caved and took her to the transmission shop, and this what i found after about 1 or less miles of test driving. I believe she is "toast"......what do u think?

 

[larry33kc]

My 92 yukon is doing the same thing. But when I pulled the pan it was totally clean. No sludge or anything in the pan or even on the magnet. It was totally clean. I saw a post on the Bullet talking about this but I can't find it now. But they where saying that there is a rod ( I think around the governor ) that some guys tac a bead of weld on and it fixes it. But I don't know what rod they are talking about.

 

[phrosty]

Thanks for the link, phrosty!

Your welcome.

I pulled my pan again last night, just to take one last look before I caved and took her to the transmission shop, and this what i found after about 1 or less miles of test driving. I believe she is "toast"......what do u think?

Definitely looks like your in need of some frictions...
Did you bring the car to the shop already?
If so keep us posted.

Also wasn't sure if you were planning on getting a new torque converter or not
but if not make sure they flush everything out really well (convertor, cooler, and lines)

 

[wiseman]

No I didn't bring it to shop. I will be pulling it throughout the week, and looking at the upgrade recipes tips to know what i need when I get it rebuilt. So hopefully I will have it out this weekend, while I am waiting for the new baby to arrive, if he doesnt come earlier. I will definietly keep you guys posted along with what went out in the transmission.

Question 1 : The torque.converter that is in the trans is new, about 1200 miles on it so i would like to reuse it. Is there any way I can flush it myself or does / can a transmission shop flush them?

Question 2: what is the best method for flushing the transcooler, lines. Etc? Can i flush them while they are on the car, myself? (Without the transmission installed)? Or should I reassemble everything with the new tranny and take it straight to the shop and get the entire system flushed all at the same time?

Thanks

 

[phrosty]

If your getting the trans rebuilt at the shop then they should be flushing everything as part of the rebuild cost.
Of course they will probably advise you that you need to purchase a new convertor, but your converter should be okay.
That is a personal preference however.

When my tranny took a shit it was filled with the usual clutch material, sludge, etc. and I just reused my convertor.
I simply filled my convertor with clean ATF, shook it around alittle, tipped it upside and let it drain
and repeated until only clean ATF was coming out. I know pretty ghetto but works

As far as the lines and cooler you can purchase a cheap aerosol flush kit at advanced auto parts or autozone like the following:
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-110777-atp--transmission-cooler-flush-kit-at200.aspx
not sure if they stock these or if you have to special order

or you can always do it this way
http://bananags.grantham-international.com/GS_DIY/completetrans/

 

[SSedan64]

I agree, something's burning up, with that much material you should have the Shop flush the TC on their machine.
The machine spins the TC internals while pumping Trans fluid thru it.
I use Brake Clean & compressed air to back flush the Cooler & Lines. Or you can use an aerosol Flush Kit.

 

[wiseman]

thanks guys!!! for all of your help. I pulled the transmission out thursday night and getting ready to ship it off to the shop. I am looking at the following rebuild kit and shift kit from CPT Transmission (Art Carr):

1. http://www.cpttransmission.com/2004R_rebuild_kit.htm
2. 12001 - TH-200 4R Hi-Tech Lock Up Valve Body Kit
3. I would also like to get this billet servo kit, http://www.cpttransmission.com/2004R_billet_servo.htm
Question: Is #2 (the Lock Up Valve Body Kit, P/N 12001) the same thing a shift kit? (I didnt see anything on his site that actually said shift kit) Also the 12001 is for a lockup and the 12004 is for non-lockup valve body. Which one should I choose? (i have a lock torque converter, so I "guess" I need 12001)

 

[SSedan64]

You would need the 12001 kit.
The "Super Servo" Art sells doesn't use the Cushion Spring & will cause a 2-1 downshift clunk/bang.
CK's Shift Recal Kit & Servo is a better option. Should check on a Master kit with those parts included, will save $$.
http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RCATALOG.html

 

[wiseman]

You would need the 12001 kit.
The "Super Servo" Art sells doesn't use the Cushion Spring & will cause a 2-1 downshift clunk/bang.
CK's Shift Recal Kit & Servo is a better option. Should check on a Master kit with those parts included, will save $$.
http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RCATALOG.html

ok, I will take your advice and go with the CK Master Rebuild Kit, #24RRK/C for $449. I saw great reviews from people that also used the CK kits. I have 2 questions:

1. Dumb Question, but Is the "Shift Recalibration Kit" the same as a shift kit?

2. A Super Servo doesnt come with the $449b kit, (from what I read), so which servo should I
choose? There are two choices:
a) The Buick Grand National Intermdiate Servo for $89.99 (From my readings this is the
stock one that is already in my tranny, correct? I have an 86 GN)
b) The Billet Aluminum Intermediate Servo for $129.99 (I would assume this one, b/c it
costs more, lol
Here is the link to the servo choices:
http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RSHIFTKITSVALVEBODIESGOVERNORS.html

Once again, Thanks in advance!

 

[SSedan64]

Yes, a Shift Recalibration Kit is the same as a Shift Kit.
TransGo has copyright protection of the name "Shift Kit" so other Co.'s can't legally call theirs a shift kit.

Yes, the #694 GN Servo is stock in the BRF coded Trans. CK's Billet Servo is the largest available.

Depending on how much HP/TQ your engine's producing you may or may not need some parts.
One part that's a good security blanket is the 'Billet Shaft Forward Drum'. These have been known to snap/break in a slow/stock ride or it could last without a problem. If you're planning on upping the power I suggest adding it.
The next weak link is the splines in the OD Carrier & OD Ring Gear, then Input Shaft. As said above, just depends on the engines power output as to what's needed.

 

[wiseman]

I am trying to get about 400 to 450hp from out of my GN, so dont think need that $899 kit with all the extra cool stuff in it. The $499 kit should do, i will order everything in the morning. Plus I guess I will opt out and get the Billet Servo for the extra $110. Wow, I have spent alot of money on this "2nd wife" of mine

oh and thanks for the background copyright- shift kit info. I will keep you guys posted of what went wrong with my transmission once they tear it down and I will let you know how the new tranny feels. I should get the rebuild kit in this week. hopefully I am back up and running in about 2wks.

 

[wiseman]

Hello guys,
So I purchased the CK Performance Master Rebuild Kit, (24RRk/C) that has the recalibration kit, and etc included in it. I also Purchased the Billet Aluminum Servo (24RCC/BS). The transmision and the kits are in the shop getting rebuilt. He said it will be about 2weeks before I will get it back.

Question: Has anyone installed the CK Servo into a transmission before? (I ask b/c the instructions are kind of conflicting and I couldnt get in contact with Chris yesterday, but I will try to get in contact with him on tomorrow.)

I need some clarification:

The Servo (i have recieved) is a 1pc design. The instructions on pg 2 say to "discard the servo cover, it will not be used for re-assembly". Then on pg 4, it says to "press in the servo cover and re-install the servo cover ring." The picture on pg 1 of the instructions show a 2pc servo assembly, but the servo I recieved is only a 1pc part (looks completely different that the 2pc assembly, must be a redesign), so the directions and pictures have some conflicts b/w them. So my question is, am i supposed to use the servo cover or not?

P.S.: I attached a picture of the Servo kit that I have. Thanks!

 

[SSedan64]

There're 2-pieces there, it's just a tight fit. Twist & Pull, it will seperate if you want to inspect it, Inner Piston & Outer Cover.

 

[wiseman]

Ok, I have some updates....first in my previous post I was asking how many pieces was the ck performance servo made of and it is 2 pieces (not Including the gaskets or washers). I also ordered the ck performance replacement servo spring that is needed for the larger servo for pin clearance.

So, I received my transmission back about 3wks ago, (it was in the shop since decemeber :-() . the shop said my bands/clutches were burnt and shot. He also said that the drum or something looked like it was in bad shape. He installed the ck performance master rebuild kit and shift kit. I went behind his work when it got it back, and noticed that he didn't put my shift kit in correctly, and items were missing. I had to buy another shift kit and install it myself. Well, I got everything installed and the transmission installed yesterday.
Now my problem is, I did a pressure test, and my pressures are really low. I don't have the numbers on me , but I post them when I get home. I will say that there is a lot of 60psi readings in park @1500rpm. I will post them when I get home. Also, the needle on the gauge bounces back and forth a lot. The meter dances back forth violently, with a 20-25 psi difference. Any ideas? Can a stuck tv valve, etc cause a bad fluctuating needle on the gauge? I installed everything to the T and checked all the valves to make sure that they weren't stuck. I cleaned the valve body and all valves.

I took it on a short , easy drive around the block in the neighborhood and it shifts very nice under very light throttle. The shifts are nice, firm, crisp, and quick but I brought back home after the short test drive

 

[wiseman]

Here are the numbers from my trans As promised Pressure test: (mere are thomotosi

No TV Cable @ 1500rpm:
P - 240 psi
R - 120 psi
N - 60 psi
D - 60 psi
3 - 50 psi
2 - 150-90 psi (constantly fluctuates back & forth rapidly)
1 - 150-90 psi (constantly fluctuates back & forth rapidly)

TV Cable Connected @ 1500rpm:
P - 60 psi
R - 120 psi
N - 60 psi
D - 60 psi
3 - 60 psi
2 - 170 psi
1 - 170 psi


Full TV @ 1500rpm:
P - 250 psi
R - 180psi
N - 240 psi
D - 210 psi
3 - 210 psi
2 - 170 psi
1 - 160 psi

 

[wiseman]

I pulled the valve body off to look over some things and check the line bias spring. Can someone let me know which way is the proper way to put this cup plug on 3/2 control valve. This re-calibration shift kit is from Ck Performance, but the instructions are not too clear of which end to put the cup plug on. Should it go on end shown in picture 1 (Front of valve) or picture 2 (Rear of valve)? thanks in advance

 

[Matthew Jones]

I put mine in as shown in picture 2. It didn't stick on the valve like I would have assumed, so put a bit of Vaseline on there to make it easier to install into the valve body.