josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
What trans brake would everyone recommend? My 60ft is horrible and can't get it to build boost off the line. What's a good trans brake and how long or hard is the install on them?
Trans brake recommend?
- Thread starter josh rosaaen
- Start date
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Stagerite is the cheapest route. Many like that brake for the money. If I were you tho, I would look into aluminum brake drums, beter pads, line lock, ect. and then decide if you truly need a tranny brake.
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
I have a line lock installed and the s10 brake cylinders. I still have the power master brakes on it now that seem to be working great. I have a gbody vacuum brake setup that I'm going to install but I don't think it will help holding boost. Can only get about 4-5psi and my turbo spools slow pry some from the headers. I was getting like 2.5 60ft
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
Would a disc brake conversion hold better
TT/Ameasap
The White Blur
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2002
Whats your combo?
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
Engine rebuilt about 4300 miles ago by BASKO Engines and Joe Martin Racing Engines of Arizona.
Engine:
Ported and Polished Heads.
Limit Engineering GT70 turbo
224 Cam
Forged Pistons
Hooker Headers and Down Pipe with Single 3" Exhaust
Ported and welded Intake
Larger Throttle body and plenum with RJC Plate
ATR Liquid to Air Intercooler
Optima Red Top Battery
Fuel:
Upgraded Inline Pump
50 lb injectors
ATR 7th Injector with 60 lb injector
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Transmission:
10" Non Lockup Convertor
3200-3500 stall
Valve Body Kit
Billet Servo
Rebuilt by Gary Rogers at AZ Precision Transmission
Suspension:
Lowered Higher Rate Springs
KYB Shocks
G-Tech Front Sway Bar....
Air bags
Have 80lb injectors and turbo tweak chip and alky control dual nozzle kit that I am going to install and remove the 7th injector
Engine:
Ported and Polished Heads.
Limit Engineering GT70 turbo
224 Cam
Forged Pistons
Hooker Headers and Down Pipe with Single 3" Exhaust
Ported and welded Intake
Larger Throttle body and plenum with RJC Plate
ATR Liquid to Air Intercooler
Optima Red Top Battery
Fuel:
Upgraded Inline Pump
50 lb injectors
ATR 7th Injector with 60 lb injector
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
Transmission:
10" Non Lockup Convertor
3200-3500 stall
Valve Body Kit
Billet Servo
Rebuilt by Gary Rogers at AZ Precision Transmission
Suspension:
Lowered Higher Rate Springs
KYB Shocks
G-Tech Front Sway Bar....
Air bags
Have 80lb injectors and turbo tweak chip and alky control dual nozzle kit that I am going to install and remove the 7th injector
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
I
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
The tune can be part of the problem..
Stiff springs, ft sway bar don't help.
Hooker headers don't either.
Videos of launch??
Stiff springs, ft sway bar don't help.
Hooker headers don't either.
Videos of launch??
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
No didn't get any video. Only made two passes and had to leave my powersteering pump started leaking all over the track. I didn't get wheel spin off the line the car just left real slow. Tried leaving at 5 psi the brakes won't hold anymore and the car just spools slow from 0-10psi then spools faster. I think if I can leave at 10 psi I would be able to get it to spool faster. I'm looking to replace the headers just trying to find a good set. Has any one installed a stage right trans brake and how long of an install is it?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
B4 you get into the trans, have you a way to data log the leave?
Sounds like there are a couple items that need to be looked at, B4 the parts changing begins.
Sounds like there are a couple items that need to be looked at, B4 the parts changing begins.
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
No I don't have a power logger just a scanmaster and knock sensor. I didn't get any knock though
If it were me I'd do the following: stock headers, 9.5" non lock 20 blade PTC, possibly switch camshafts. You didn't mention which grind you were using. Most of the "224" cams will make response lazy. Also you didn't mention the turbine you are running. It's possible to cut spool time to about 1/3 of what it is now and not effect power at all and likely increase it
TurboTdr3.8
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2013
I am with Bison get rid of that 224 camshaft , I had one it was a dog and caused me all kind of problems till I went smaller
If it was the correct camshaft and it was set up correctly there's very little downside to it but we don't have the info yet
MY CHOICE STAGERIGHT . KEVIN MALLENDER'S BABY . I USE ONE FLAWLESSLY . EASY TO INSTALL & CHEAPEST OPTION . BUT FIRST TAKE THE ADVICE FROM THE PEOPLE IN THIS THREAD FIRST . YOU HAVE REAL PROS IN TURBOBUICK WORLD HELPING YOU . HANG IN THERE, GOING FAST IS NOT ALWAYS SIMPLE OR COST EFFECTIVE .
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
I'll have to check my time slips when I get back from work. I have the info on the cam I will post up too. As far as the turbo I'm not sure how do I go about checking the turbine?
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
I only ran the 1/8th but I'll check the slip when I get home
josh rosaaen
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2012
I've been looking for headers also. Pry going to switch them out with something other then the stock so I don't have to deal with the Cracking. What stall would you recommend for the converter. The car is going to be mainly a street car only do about 4 trips a year to the track.
Order a 19 or 20 blade PTC from Dusty Bradford. You will need 5600-5700 stall at full hit with you combo
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