Tranny or electrical?

F

Famlycar

Guest
First off let me say the tranny is acting up and will be coming out shortly. Last week my IGN Module went bad and I replaced and all was well. I decided to replace the plugs as well. After replacing the plugs and going for a drive I noticed the car seemed to be sputtering some. When I got up to 45mph and the convertor locked it got really bad like the car was jerking. I got back to the house and replaced the wires with a set I had and still had the same problem. I had this problem before and the cause was fouled plugs. Changed the plugs and all was well. The odd thing is that when I was driving today I started to suspect the tranny because it got worst when the convertor locked. I pressed on the brake pedal lightly to unlock the convertor and the jerking/slipping would stop. When I would let off of the brake pedal and the convertor would lock again the jerking would start again. Then press on the brake pedal again to unlock the convertor and the jerking would stop. I'm trying to figure out if its the tranny or an electrical problem. If I mash down on the gas and go under boost there is no sputtering or anything. Car pulls fine. It would seem if the tranny was bad it would act up when I got on it. So what do you guys think? If unlock the convertor around 45mph via the brake pedal it goes away. Once the convertor locks back up it starts again yet if I kick it car pulls fine. Is it electrical or tranny? I'm puzzled. :confused: Thanks.
 
I vote electrical. The convertor is just locking up as normal, but when it does the rpms drop and all the cushion is taken out of the driveline. At low rpms, high torque load cylinders missing show up the most.

These cars don't normally foul plugs -- the electronics all over the engine are supposed to keep that from happening. Maybe your oxygen sensor is dead and the car is in "limp home" mode, which is really rich.
 
The wires are hooked up correctly WarpSpeed. I've checked that about 50 times already. I always only change one plug at the time anyway. No way to get them crossed up that way. Fred 86, the O2 sensor is new and working fine. Whats puzzles me is if its electrical why does it not occur under boost? I've got new plugs, wires, and Coil Pack/IGN Module. Where do I go next? The Scanmaster shows 13.5 to 14 volts so it doesn't seem to be charging related. Thanks.
 
Sorry, I figured you'd think of that. It still doesn't sound like a transmission prob. If it is in limp home mode, it'd be way rich, but probably run good at WOT cause it wants all that fuel. Do you have any scan tool numbers? How does it idle, rich?
 
To follow up on TT4U2NV's post, unplug your TCC solenoid on the drivers side of the trans pan. If the car stops the symptoms you described, that's the problem.

BTW, did you get my email on the Bilsteins?
 
I had a similar problem when I changed my torque convertor. When I put my tranny back in, I pinched one of the tranny wires between the bellhousing and the engine. Perhaps you pinched a wire under the ignition module bracket when you changed it? Just a thought....
 
Well I unhooked the TCC solenoid and went for a spin. At 45mph it wasn't jerking any more like before with the solenoid plugged up. The only thing is the car still seems to be missing at lower speeds. For instance when I'm stopped and start to pull off it seems to sputter a little bit and then when I give it gas it seems to go on. I was looking at IAC numbers cruising around and they were at like 120:eek: That seems way off does it not? I can't remember what they should be around cruise speed, say 45 mph, does anyone know? I think the IAC counts are the reason for the sputtering when pulling off from a stop. I'm not sure about the missing at cruise speeds. Anybody have any input? TIA
 
Originally posted by Steve Wood
IAC stands for Idle Air Control.....the numbers are meaningly once you leave idle. :)
Click to expand...
What the hell does "meaningly" mean.:D I knew that about the IAC but I'd never looked at them while crusing before and just thought that could be related somehow. On another note I was looking at the BL and it was moving from 140 to 160:eek: at idle. Evidently there must be a big vacuum leak somewhere. I just replaced a few vacuum lines that looked a little suspicious. Tomorrow I think I'll spray some WD40 around several places and see if that changes the rpms.
 
BLM's of 160 indicate you definately have a leak somewhere in the system. Check vacuum lines along with exhaust Xover and manifolds. My guess is the car is stumbling due to the high BLM's, off the start. Are you running one of Joe Lubrants chips with 150 BLM lock? Let me know as I can help ya out and burn a good chip for your combo Stephen.

Mike Banas
87GN
 
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