To those who have swapped HG's before..

marleyskater420

still needs to learn
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
I salute you. I am currently tearing apart the engine, and I am not down to the turbo,headers,and then taking off the heads.

I just wanted to say, that I now have so much more respect for those of you who do this type of stuff on your own.

Props, and much respect, and if it weren't for guys like you, I wouldn't be doing this myself,and learning so much :) ;)

Just wanted to say props, and this whole project sucks/is good learning experience.


On a side note, is there any special thing I need to remember before taking off the heads?


-Tyler
 
Originally posted by Geoff87
Remember to drain the fluids......... :)

soooooo true.....

If your not too familiar with where everything goes back into place, cardboard cutouts are the bomb.

Make sure you buy new head bolts if they are original, make sure to use thread sealer and moly lube for the head bolts/studs...

Always ask questions before you assume, always ask before you mess something up.
Get the heads checked for being straight if they have had work to them in the past, find out why you blew the head gasket in the first place!!

BW
 
Originally posted by Quick6'n'-K.C.
soooooo true.....

If your not too familiar with where everything goes back into place, cardboard cutouts are the bomb.

Make sure you buy new head bolts if they are original, make sure to use thread sealer and moly lube for the head bolts/studs...

Always ask questions before you assume, always ask before you mess something up.
Get the heads checked for being straight if they have had work to them in the past, find out why you blew the head gasket in the first place!!

BW

How do I know if they are original?

Where can I get the heads checked?
 
Take heads to a good machine shop check with your local TR
owners. I put all parts in bags and labeled helps later on.
Clean and make sure all parts are clean of blown head gasket
material.
 
The head bolts will have SPS stamped on the hex head if they are original-
If they are stamped ARP, then you can reuse them since they are not like the TTY original head bolts...

Which do you have?

BW
 
Do yourself a favor. On the reinstall, torque all the headbolts and let them sit for a day and then come back and retorque then again before you put everything back on. Also, make sure your new head gaskets are the same height as the old ones.

Like most projects while everything is apart, might as well spring for new heads, turbo and injectors! :D That is how my head gasket replacement went anyway.
 
Right now Im at the VC's are off, and I started to unbolt 3 head bolts.

A few questions...

1.)Do I take off the rockers?If yes, then how do I do it? Unbolt the bolts that seem to be holding the shaft that they rotate on?

2.)What are all the gaskets that I need to buy since I took everything off?
 
Drain the oil, and coolant, you will need to drain the block to get the head bolts to seal correctly- Probably do these last, right before removing the heads, not as messy, no slips ect....

once you pull the heads, you will see these little square headed plugs on the block, one on each side, right between the outer 2 cylinders... or you will be able to see these if you climb under the car before the heads are off, i believe 7 or 8mm or a 1/4 inch wrench will fit. Pull them out to drain the block so the head bolts will seal correctly.

Pull the 3 bolts out to remove the rocker assy per head, get some cardboard, label it front and rear, left and right,and slip the pushrods into the cardboard to make sure you put that pushrod back into its correct location. No need to remove the lifters.

You will need a felpro intake gasket kit, tube of black RTV, head gaskets, moly lube, ARP thread sealant, copper coat for the headers and x over,upper plenum gasket...

On the pass head, there will be some ground wires bolted to the back of that head, dont put them back there, reinstall to a intake bolt, i use all-thread put the grounds at the back of the intake bolt where the intake bolts to the head.

If you take the heads to get resurfaced,make sure you ask how many thousandths they take off,check to see if they have been done before,overtime, you will need to shim up the rocker shafts depending on how many thousandths are taken off.

Post back what you have taken off next
BW
 
Originally posted by Quick6'n'-K.C.
Drain the oil, and coolant, you will need to drain the block to get the head bolts to seal correctly- Probably do these last, right before removing the heads, not as messy, no slips ect....

once you pull the heads, you will see these little square headed plugs on the block, one on each side, right between the outer 2 cylinders... or you will be able to see these if you climb under the car before the heads are off, i believe 7 or 8mm or a 1/4 inch wrench will fit. Pull them out to drain the block so the head bolts will seal correctly.



Pull the 3 bolts out to remove the rocker assy per head, get some cardboard, label it front and rear, left and right,and slip the pushrods into the cardboard to make sure you put that pushrod back into its correct location. No need to remove the lifters.

You will need a felpro intake gasket kit, tube of black RTV, head gaskets, moly lube, ARP thread sealant, copper coat for the headers and x over,upper plenum gasket...

On the pass head, there will be some ground wires bolted to the back of that head, dont put them back there, reinstall to a intake bolt, i use all-thread put the grounds at the back of the intake bolt where the intake bolts to the head.

If you take the heads to get resurfaced,make sure you ask how many thousandths they take off,check to see if they have been done before,overtime, you will need to shim up the rocker shafts depending on how many thousandths are taken off.

Post back what you have taken off next
BW

I cant get the farthest bolt on top of the heads off, is it OK to spray some PB Blaster on all the bolts to loosen them up? Will the engine be fine if it the PB gets in it?

So I pull those plugs before I take the heads off?

So I need the TB to plenum gasket, and do I need a new "valley" gasket that goes under the plenum? Also, what header gaskets should I get? Thread sealant,..for? Also, what is copper coat?What is a tube of black RTV? I got RJC's HG kit if that helps with my questions at all.

Right now, I took the rocker assembly off, and I cannot get the last pass. head bolt undone.I have yet to start on the drivers side.

I need to know if it is OK to spray PB blaster on the bolts or not in order for me to continue.

Thanks for the help.
 
On pass side last bolt what has worked for me
- remove AC black beauty cover one bolt is hidden directly above
down pipe or
- remove motor mount bolt on pass side and loosen drivers side
jackup motor on pass side to get right angle

I perfer 1st method

-leave plugs in
-leave TB attached to intake all thats needed is valley gasket
- black RTV is applied to areas where rubber seals stop to meet
heads.
-thread sealant used on head bolts that go into water.

I took rags or towels and stuffed in intake area to keep debri
from engine
 
Originally posted by turbofrank
On pass side last bolt what has worked for me
- remove AC black beauty cover one bolt is hidden directly above
down pipe or
- remove motor mount bolt on pass side and loosen drivers side
jackup motor on pass side to get right angle

I perfer 1st method

-leave plugs in
-leave TB attached to intake all thats needed is valley gasket
- black RTV is applied to areas where rubber seals stop to meet
heads.
-thread sealant used on head bolts that go into water.

I took rags or towels and stuffed in intake area to keep debri
from engine

Huh? So theres a bolt hidden somewhere?

What is RTV?

Do I need a new valley gasket?
 
Keep PB Blast IT out of the inside of the motor if you can.That stuff will evaproate and leave a film on anything it touches and will KILL your first three oil changes.Turned my 10W40 oil into 10W01(water).Try not to use it,Good Luck.Take Care AL.
 
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