Times and combos with billet turbos

[1987T]

Nope. I run an ext gate DP w/electric cutout and I get 1 psi over the rated spring. With the dump closed = 1psi Dump open = 3psi. I like that idea of getting 2 psi worth of boost and sounding like monster by just opening the dump. As far as your turbo selection goes, your goals along with budget should dictate that . I broke my stock motor with the 6262 with run away boost. That's when I was using a TA 3" internal gate DP. My goals dictated my new build and turbo selection. GL!

I already have the Eternal gate as I like the extra boost control over the Internal Gated DP. I also have a manual control hooked up in the center Console So I have simple adjustment of the boost while driving.
Last I plan to build a race motor down the road and have a low 9 sec. goal in mind. I already have a 6152 on the car now but Id like to go to a smaller stall and go BB for better driveability the 3200 thats in it is tad big I think.

 

[bison]

Bison would run away boost be a problem with the 6265 and the d5 still in the car? If i go ahead and put this ptc 9.5 i have in what would be the best means of boost control i have a rjc controller and gonna use the hd wastegate...and a cas v2 front mount....the only reason the converter isnt in the car yet is im having a hard time with the idea of putting a $1000 converter in a 25 year old trans...hopefully ill have a janis tranny by mid summer

The converter won't do much about the boost. Just how hard it hits and how long it holds the engine in the power band. The mass flow of the engine determines how much exhaust gas to be wastegated. More mass flow less wastegating to maintain consistent boost levels. The 62cea from what ive seen is a bitch below 50lbs/min. You need to hog out the hole a bunch and or use a larger puck. The 6262 should not be used for less than 500hp. It's just not needed. No need to worry about the converter getting contaminated unless you have metal going through it.

 

[bison]

I already have the Eternal gate as I like the extra boost control over the Internal Gated DP. I also have a manual control hooked up in the center Console So I have simple adjustment of the boost while driving.
Last I plan to build a race motor down the road and have a low 9 sec. goal in mind. I already have a 6152 on the car now but Id like to go to a smaller stall and go BB for better driveability the 3200 thats in it is tad big I think.

The correct converter would make a big difference.

 

[bison]

External Gate should be fine

At least a 44mm with good stroke. A smaller one probably won't cut it

 

[1987T]

I was told to go with the older 6365 a while back by a guy at PTE but they dont have it on there site any more Ill have to call again and see what they say. I bet the 6265 is the replacement for the 6365 I was told to use before by them. Also my gate is a GT 45mm Not sure who I spoke to there but they said the 6365 would work with the stock engine till I get the new one done and in the car. THey also said to run 28-30 psi of boost to get the times I was looking for with the stock engine. And would be about 24 psi with good cam and heads to run the same #s turn it up to go faster. My new motor will be .30 over stock block (I have that) and fordged rods and pistons with RJC girdle

 

[Pronto]

1987T, please start a new thread that you can continue your questions with Bison in. I would like to see this threat stay more on topic.

 

[Quik Six]

1987T, please start a new thread that you can continue your questions with Bison in. I would like to see this threat stay more on topic.

Dang, you drove a stake in the heart of this thread with your last post.

Let's see if we can revive it.

Friday night at Noble was great night for racing; small crowd and great weather.

Line lock was broken so no good burnouts but this was best run:

60' 1.484

ET 10.427

MPH 129.64

93 octane and single line 15# alky with halo nozzle and 23# of boost from the 6265 JB

Rich in the first half of the track but picked up 26.85 MPH in the back half.

Only disappointment was failure to break into the 130's. LAst 3 runs were in the mid 129's.

Car weighs 3720 with me in it so both the car and I are going on a diet.

Phil Engle

 

[bison]

Dang, you drove a stake in the heart of this thread with your last post.

Let's see if we can revive it.

Friday night at Noble was great night for racing; small crowd and great weather.

Line lock was broken so no good burnouts but this was best run:

60' 1.484

ET 10.427

MPH 129.64

93 octane and single line 15# alky with halo nozzle and 23# of boost from the 6265 JB

Rich in the first half of the track but picked up 26.85 MPH in the back half.

Only disappointment was failure to break into the 130's. LAst 3 runs were in the mid 129's.

Car weighs 3720 with me in it so both the car and I are going on a diet.

Phil Engle

Plenty left in that combo.

 

[Quik Six]

Plenty left in that combo.

Brian: I like that reply. Thanks. I think that 10.0's are a reality with pump gas and alky with 200#' reduction in combined weight of car and driver. Good burnout will lower 60' , better tune on the lower half and raising 2-3 shift point to mid 90's will keep the motor above 5400 after shift. I'm dead certain the car will go 109 MPH in second at 6970RPM but don't ask me why I say that.

I have a few things to fix/change before I go to race fuel and turn the power up. C clip eliminators will be installed rather quickly.

Thanks again for all your helpful advice.

Phil Engle

 

[Pronto]

Nice numbers (I know you posted your build earlier). I think you might be the fastest with a 6265.

 

[Quik Six]

Nice numbers (I know you posted your build earlier). I think you might be the fastest with a 6265.

Thanks.

I've got some definite goals but have a few problems to fix and a few safety issues resolved.

Will keep this thread up to date.

 

[1987T]

Nice times!

 

[bison]

Brian: I like that reply. Thanks. I think that 10.0's are a reality with pump gas and alky with 200#' reduction in combined weight of car and driver. Good burnout will lower 60' , better tune on the lower half and raising 2-3 shift point to mid 90's will keep the motor above 5400 after shift. I'm dead certain the car will go 109 MPH in second at 6970RPM but don't ask me why I say that.

I have a few things to fix/change before I go to race fuel and turn the power up. C clip eliminators will be installed rather quickly.

Thanks again for all your helpful advice.

Phil Engle

With my 6265 and 9.5" I was getting a 5500rpm flash with it cranked all the way up. When you crank it up you should be gtg. Mine liked being shifted around 6000rpm with a 29" slick

 

[Quik Six]

With my 6265 and 9.5" I was getting a 5500rpm flash with it cranked all the way up. When you crank it up you should be gtg. Mine liked being shifted around 6000rpm with a 29" slick

Believe it is time to upgrade the rear end and the suspension. I'd sure like to hear your suggestions.

I realize that's off subject for this thread but I really value your opinion.

Thanks.

Phil Engle

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

60' 1.484

ET 10.427

MPH 129.64

93 octane and single line 15# alky with halo nozzle and 23# of boost from the 6265 JB

Phil Engle

Way to go Phil, that's getting it done! It's going to get real interesting when you go to race fuel! If you don't mind me asking, how much boost did you leave with to get that neck snappin 60ft? Was it off the TB or FB

 

[Quik Six]

Way to go Phil, that's getting it done! It's going to get real interesting when you go to race fuel! If you don't mind me asking, how much boost did you leave with to get that neck snappin 60ft? Was it off the TB or FB

PL say18#'s and 4725RPM. Guess that's why the slicks spun about 2 1/2 times before they bit. Another thing is that the car slammed me back into the seat more than I expected. TPS at launch was 3.97 and dropped to high 3.30's until I recovered and ran it up to 4.60. Time from launch was .601.

Footbrake.

The alky system is still coming on too soon and the fuel ratio is still too fat, high 10's, as is the car and driver. 200# weight loss will help everything.

 

[87WE4BOOSTED]

PL say18#'s and 4725RPM. Guess that's why the slicks spun about 2 1/2 times before they bit.

Footbrake.

The alky system is still coming on too soon and the fuel ratio is still too fat, high 10's, as is the car and driver. 200# weight loss will help everything.

I just turned the boost up to 20~21 spraying alky and I'm seeing the same thing in regards to the alky dropping the AFR to 10.0 for about 1.5sec then it levels out to 10.8. I read in the alky fourm that I might need to go inside the PAC and turn one of the dials down a hair...

 

[bison]

Believe it is time to upgrade the rear end and the suspension. I'd sure like to hear your suggestions.

I realize that's off subject for this thread but I really value your opinion.

Thanks.

Phil Engle

Eaton 30 spline carrier with Moser axles and cast aluminum cover with studs to preload the caps has been proven very reliable into the 9's HR bar is very effective with a good set of adjustable rear shocks. If you are going to run the turbo out of breath go to a taller slick.

 

[Quik Six]

Eaton 30 spline carrier with Moser axles and cast aluminum cover with studs to preload the caps has been proven very reliable into the 9's HR bar is very effective with a good set of adjustable rear shocks. If you are going to run the turbo out of breath go to a taller slick.

I was hoping you would say that. The idea of putting Ford parts on my Buick doesn't fit with me.

As always, I really appreciate your advice.

 

[Quik Six]

I just turned the boost up to 20~21 spraying alky and I'm seeing the same thing in regards to the alky dropping the AFR to 10.0 for about 1.5sec then it levels out to 10.8. I read in the alky fourm that I might need to go inside the PAC and turn one of the dials down a hair...

Please reread my last response to you about being slammed back in the seat and a drop in TPS.

What chip are you using? TT SD allows me to control when fueling changes from mid-boost to WOT. It's based on boost pressure.

You probably want to delay the turn-on point of the alky which would be to turn it up. I believe the "factory" position starts the turn on at 8#. As best I can tell, mine is currently coming on around 12 which is going to be raised to 15. Halo nozzles really seem to work better for cooling.