Those with 3.5" driveshafts....

T Spool

New Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2006
What safety loop are you guys running? Or is everyone making their own?

I have a round style Metco and with new motor and trans mount it sets the shaft too high and hits the loop at top. I have opened up the bolt holes and moved it around for maximum height clearance, but still hits under hard acceleration or deceleration. Driving it like a Buick it's fine :rolleyes:
 
The only thing I can suggest is try heating and bending the loop to the location you need. If that doesn't work you can always add material to the loop or arms that bolt to the pan. It may take some fab work on your part, or you could find a fab shop locally. I've had to do some adjusting to every dssl I ever bought.
 
I have a Metco loop w/ poly mounts and a Inland Empire 3.5" shaft. It clears fine. You may have to modify your loop.

Jim
 
I have a Dynotech from MI., 3.5" one on the GN with the Metco loop and it clears okay. :smile:

Only made 4 passes at the track, so far no issues, a few panic stops with the Baer brakes too and no issues. 1.8 60 fts. :p
 
The problem with mine is the builder welded a balance weight directly under the loop and that's what hits :rolleyes: I suppose I could have it rebalanced and move the weight.
 
The '87 T at our shop has a 3.5" Dynotech shaft and the Metco loop clears just fine. When we replaced the engine & trans mounts, and then later lowered the car, the shaft still cleared the loop by a comfortable margin.
 
I run a 3.5" shaft from DynoTech. I used the UMI loop from FullThrottle. The loop is ok but I dont understand why they shaded it like an oval instead of a circle. I had to play with it quite a bit to make it work. Ended up widening the mounting holes so it fits directly in the center of the loop. I have plenty of clearence now. Maybe try a UMI loop? There pretty inexpensive. My driveshaft was balanced direct in the center of where the loop fits over it too. I hit with my old loop. I think it was a Kirbans. May be cheaper to buy a new loop rather than rebalancing the shaft. -------Jeremy
 
When I put a dynotech 3.5" in my car, it hit the loop on the top. I loosened the bolts on the loop 1/2 turn or so, put my floor jack under the loop and heated the loop ears up with a oxy/act torch. I raised the loop slightly with the jack.

Instant "formed in place" custom loop!!
 
When I put a dynotech 3.5" in my car, it hit the loop on the top. I loosened the bolts on the loop 1/2 turn or so, put my floor jack under the loop and heated the loop ears up with a oxy/act torch. I raised the loop slightly with the jack.

Instant "formed in place" custom loop!!

You know Dave, after the fifth time having my loop off for "modification" that is exactly what I thought I would do next! Problem is I don't own a torch and the thought of somebody else under my car with a torch scares me :eek: I'll try to bend the ears in a vise, but I don't know if it will bend or break?

I have basically ported the inside of the loop to gain clearance, slotted the mounting holes to the point there is hardly any metal left, ground down the front of the loop because that was hitting the part where the u joint is and it still sounds like polishing rocks when I brake hard. I think all the loops are the same with about 5 3/8" of inside clearance top to bottom. If anyone has one that measures more than 5 1/2" please let me know, but I believe they're all the same.

Thanks for everyone's comments.
 

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Update: I was wrong!

I looked at my invoice from over a year ago and what I have is a UMI loop and not a Metco. Like jdpolzin said it's an oval shape instead of a circle and mine is 5 3/8" inside diameter and not 6" like the Metco. Thank you RKHiPerformance for posting that pic! I ordered a Metco loop from Jack Cotton - problem should be solved :)
 
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