Those of you who changed rear main-still leak?

[Steves87]

Just spoke with a mechanic that told me even if I replace the rear main with a neoprene seal that the car will still leak. He said these cars are prone to leaking from the rear main. They swapped one out 3 times just to see if it would make a difference and it still leaked. Those of you who replaced their seal, does your car still leak oil from the rear main?

I appreciated this guys honesty or at least his perspective since he could have made a few hundred off me. A buddy was going to do this for me until he heard it was a rope seal. He said it was too involved and he did not feel comfortable doing the job.

 

[TurboShane]

I had mine done 3 times in a row a few years a go at the shop. Leaked every time. Now that is not saying he did it right but if not done right it will for sure leak if not worse. Now I just did it again my self using the instructions on gnttype using rtv instead of those strips. I have not got my car running yet to tell you if that is going to work or not but I would like to know too, if using the method on gnttype works or not I sure hope so. By the way it's not the bad of a job as long as you have a torque wrench.

 

[Steves87]

Turboshane,

What is involved with the seal swap? My friend thought it would require some major work.

 

[Tin Man]

Mine was leaking so I changed to the Neoprene seal. It was a good thing, as the lower portion of the rope seal was completely gone. It was mostly stuck to the oil pick up screen (not good).

I have a small leak but I dont think its the rear seal. I believe its the valve covers.

 

[TurboShane]

Here is a link to detailed description maybe takes 2 hours. The hardest part is getting the damned oil pan gasket in place. http://www.rennie-macintosh.com/techarea/engine/rearmain.html

 

[stockv6]

When I purchased my gn last year, it leaked a liter of oil a week depending how much I drove it. After a couple of weeks I got tierd of the oil trail on the driveway. I used the instructions above and a neoprene seal, installed with a slight rotation 1/8 inch or so.
I also replaced the valve cover gaskets with cork replacements. My gn now leaks nothing, not a drop. I also run mobil one oil which apparently doesn't help with leaks.

 

[turbo nasty]

My 87 still leaks but not as bad. I used the strips and should have staggered the seals.

 

[Gary Wells]

FWIW & IMHO:
Every Turbo Regal that I have ever bought the rear main seal leaked, sans one. Eventually, it began to leak, too. All were replaced by my mechanic. None leaked after the replacement. Given enough time and spirited driving conditions, even the neoprene replacements installed by a compentnet mechanic will leak again. Not near as bad as rope seals can leak, though. I have never heard of a seal leaking immediatley after replacement. The above statements are true of the 5 turbo regal cars that I have owned. Under the conditions posted on this thread, I would learn to replace them correctly, quit replacing them myself, of find another mechanic.

 

[XLR8]

After mine was fixed, it didn't leak - until I took it to the track and ran 26# of boost. Now it has a slow drip - 1 or 2 drops in a couple of hours after driving. Before it used to leave 6 - 10 drops of oil in 30 minutes. I think the oil leak is just a Buicks way of marking its territory.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Steves87
Just spoke with a mechanic that told me even if I replace the rear main with a neoprene seal that the car will still leak. He said these cars are prone to leaking from the rear main. They swapped one out 3 times just to see if it would make a difference and it still leaked. Those of you who replaced their seal, does your car still leak oil from the rear main?

I appreciated this guys honesty or at least his perspective since he could have made a few hundred off me. A buddy was going to do this for me until he heard it was a rope seal. He said it was too involved and he did not feel comfortable doing the job.

Done properly, and IAW the instructions, the neoprene seal wont re-leak. It takes great care, and the area must be completely free of oil for the strategically placed rtv to seat.

Mine has held up for over 40,000 now. motor's still bone dry on all outer surfaces.

 

[NC87GN]

There is a good method that works for me ALL THE TIME. Do not use the tabs IMO. Clean everthing good and be anal about it. Install the lip seals dry and be careful not to buckle them during install. I then install the cap without the tabs. Take OEM high temp RTV (BLACK) and squeeze it into the track where the tabs would be installed. Squeeze until you see the RTV ooze out both sides of the cap. What this does is it fills all the voids between the block and the mating cap. A local GN mechanic showed me this trick and I have yet to see one leak if done right. Install a Duttweiller gasket DRY with 15-16 ft# and never look back. HTH

Mike Banas
87GN

 

[PEACHS]

Leak away

I replaced mine with the neoprene and have had no leaks. Better make sure your motor gets PRIMED before they start it up or your bearings will be ruined. Alot of mechanics fail to do this extra step and send you out the door with bearing shavings in your oil pan. Keep a close eye on them when they are doing the work.

 

[gofstbuick]

I followed the factory instructions. I installed the side seals and put small amounts of anaerobic sealant on the main cap face and at the corners of the block on each side of the side seals and have not had a problem with a rear main leak.

 

[TUFNUF 6]

F.W.I.W. I have gone through the pan gasket struggle more times than I care to remember. What I found that worked really well for me is to lay gasket on the pan, take some sewing thread and loop through about 8-10 of the pan and gasket holes, tie them fairly securely, get the pan bolts started then pull thread out with needle nose pliers. It is a little tedious tying the thread, but quicker than fighting the gasket and finding the tools that you THREW!! It has worked well for me. HTH.