Third time's the charm....I hope!

When a part has failed, it is understandable to be wary. However, it sounds like there was an issue with the finish on the heads - maybe the block too? I believe Cometic specs a smooth finish for their gaskets.
 
OK, I hate beating a dead horse here, but splain me again. Why should I go back to Felpro when I've blown two sets of them and I'm willing to take the chance something else may go with the Cometics? Are the Felpros "better" or is it I shouldn't need the Cometics with what I've got? I reolize I probably had other issues, and I intend on getting it right this time, but the Felpros sure didn't work before! Is my logic messed up or what:confused:

The Felpro gasket did not cause the failure- it was the result or failure. There's something in your setup that is failing, and the gasket blew as a result. Changing to the Cometics will IMO worsen the situation, as you haven't remedied the cause of failure.

Your combo is fairly mild- until you get your car more dialed in, you WANT that "fuse". Imagine you're using the bulletproof head gasket, and you have a catastrophic failure- now, rather than just changing the head gaskets, you're putting mucho coin together to get that new crank, rods, pistons, or block. If something's got to let loose, why not have it be the easiest repair?

A question- if it's just a head gasket, why are you pulling the engine?
 
Anyone for chocolate milk?

The engine had to come out. After the car was towed home I drained about seven quarts of gunk out of the pan. Took the valve covers off.....you can see what they look like. Check out where the gasket blew, it was right where the steam hole is. The compression started forcing the water into the valley, then it drained into the pan. The crank then became an egg beater. Anyway, I'm sure the bearings will have to be replaced, the crank polished and everything else checked out and cleaned up.
 

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I feel for you- BTDT!

If antifreeze was in there, then it's a pretty good bet that the bearings are toast. If you were running distilled + water wetter/RMI-25, then you could get away with flushing the engine (while installed) and pulling only the pan in addition to the intake and heads.

In any case, it's a great time to install that new roller cam:eek:
 
OK SouthernCal GN, speak to me, I know very little about roller cams. How much $$$, and what's the big advantage over my set up?
 
The biggest advantage of roller over a flat tappet (stock style) is wear- do a search on wiped cam lobes, and you'll be reading for days....

The roller cam uses a ball bearing roller (hence the name) that rides the camshaft- the roller reduces friction, and adds to the ramp (opening and closing) of the valvetrain. Another benefit is that you can reuse a roller cam, as the rollers don't wear a pattern into the camshaft.

Roller kits start in the mid/high $700s. The kit is the roller cam, roller lifters, cam button with shims, and sometime valve springs.
 
A bit spendy

Just checked Full Throttle web site. Complete roller cam kit, $820. They recommend you run roller rockers with the kit, another $520, that's $1340 (gulp!). Maybe I can get a discount because I have a nice smile;). The push rods that come with the kit don't appear to be adjustable. How would you adjust for valve lash if you needed to? Could I reuse my adjustable push rods. Doubt that I'd make the purchase but still nice to know.
 
The push rods that come with the kit don't appear to be adjustable. How would you adjust for valve lash if you needed to? Could I reuse my adjustable push rods. Doubt that I'd make the purchase but still nice to know.

Cliff, the roller rockers are adjustable. :)
 
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