The Wonderful BRAKE light

[T-top87GN]

Well, after the car sleeping all winter I finally got it started last night.

WHile it was down I removed my Mark jackson 17 row and added a CAS V2 (very nice setup I might add). I also added the Ramchargers fans and the Racetronix harness. I also had to replace the heater core while it was down.

Last night I got it fired up and running good. While pulling into the drive way today, after picking up my well deserved 12 pack of Labatt's Blue, that wonderful BRAKE light started staring me in the face. Oh that's just f'ing great. The pedal is hard now with me needing to really push it to get the car to stop.

Am I looking at a Cardone PM unit or should I just get a new accumulator ball? Does the Cardone PM unit come with the accumulator ball?

 

[URSPANKED]

Unless you are wanting to keep the car near stock, or just don't like the idea, I would highly recommend the vacuum booster brake swap. I did mine several years ago and it's great. I got so tired of fighting that PM. I think there are some guys on this board who sell all the stuff necessary to do it.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by T-top87GN

Am I looking at a Cardone PM unit or should I just get a new accumulator ball? Does the Cardone PM unit come with the accumulator ball?

Avoid the hassles, just gather the parts and swap over to a vacuum booster.

 

[T-top87GN]

$373 out the door from Advance Auto Parts with Limited Lifetime Warranty.

After they all dry up and I get my money back, I'll decide from there!

 

[dandman]

hi

there is a electrical connector below the powermaster motor, pull it out, spray wd 40 in it, plug it back it, worked for me and others, try it first
dan

 

[POWERBRAKEBOB]

HYDROBOOST?

Those Powermasters were problems when they were new. We have been converting cars to hydroboosts since 1974. The hydroboost runs off of the power steering pump. As long as the engine is running, you have high pressure to the booster. If the engine stopped, the h/b has an accumulator that stores high pressure for three brake applications with power, and then can revert to manual after that. The 12v elec pump that powers the p/m has phenolic vanes that pump brake fluid, and wear out fast. The other problem with the motor is the brake fluid can seep into the elec motor and short it out. That's when the red light comes on. The hydroboost can last 200,000 miles with clean fluid. The master cyl is easily replaceable. The Hydroboost bolts right on and use the same brake pedal. You run a new hose from the pump to the h/b, and then on to the steering box. The h/b can generate up to 2000psi to the wheels with the pump at idle speed. Picture this; When you hold the brakes to spool up the turbo, the p/s pump is spinning faster and the brake booster locks down harder! The boost guage can keep going up to....The hydroboost can be seen at POWERBRAKESERVICES.COM click on "company info" for photos...There is a great article in July issue of Rod and Custom on the h/b

 

[Turbo6inKY]

You're still around? You get those stopping distance numbers yet?

 

[T-top87GN]

Thanks for the info Bob. Trust me, as soon as these PM's fail and Advanced can no longer find me a remanned unit, I am going hydroboost. In fact, if I had heard about you a little earlier, I might have done it this time. I have bookmarked your site.

 

[T-top87GN]

Originally posted by dandman
hi

there is a electrical connector below the powermaster motor, pull it out, spray wd 40 in it, plug it back it, worked for me and others, try it first
dan

Thanks Dan I will keep that in mind for next time.