The Exxon Valdez speweth forth

scottyb

Spongebob Squarecar
Joined
Oct 12, 2001
My old sled has always dripped oil. I did all the usual gasket crap:
rear main
valve covers
pan
front crank (along with new timing cover, etc when I did timing chain)
None of these "appear" to be leaking at this time (except possibly the pan because everything that low is soaked.

Anyway, I installed a TA49 2 weeks ago and the leakage has more than doubled. It's now at a rate that I must correct it. I did nothing else to the car, so my first assumption was that I "tweaked" the oil feed line such that it "opened a (or the) leak where the line meets the block/pressure switch. A quick inspection from above looks as if there is no leak there because the line and the switch are dry.

The leak is certainly on the front. I will tear off much if the front crap that blocks access/view, and clean the front, then attempt to locate the leak.

Any thoughts/suggestions/pointers/experience before I get into it this weekend? Are there other common leak locations on the front?

Thanks,
Scott
 
It is probabably leaking more now because you are making more power which equals more blow-by past the rings/head gaskets. With more blow-by what ever leaks you have will now leak more. If it is a high milage car, you may have found a bad ring seal condition, or you may have also found a leaking head gasket into the lifter valley. With a leaking head gasket into the lifter valley, it will pressurize the crankcase and push oil out where it can. A leak down test can tell you aot about the condition of the engine. What breather system do you have?
OR,........It may just be coincidence. The oil pan may just be leaking more.
 
Another thing to check is if it's leaking from the drain tube. They can leak pretty bad and track down behind the crap on the front of the engine.
 
as stated above check the drain tube and make sure its tight and not cracked. They get brittle after a while. Good luck with it. Also be careful around the brass block. I tried to tighten what i thought was a leaking turbo feed line once and it turned out the brass block was cracked at the threads. As soon as i tried to tighten it the brass block snapped off clean. After the EZ out broke off in there i had to take it out and to my machine shop:( Also check the oil pressure sensor, they can crack and leak as well....
 
Oil pressure sensor or the oil feed line to the turbo.

They both can do it.

Clean and check, it will probably drip at an idle, but I'd rev. it up a bit and shut er down and look from under the car also with a good light.
 
My oil return line for the turbo had a hairline crack in it that would not leak at idle but was definalty leaking under WOT. It made a mess of $360 worth of ceramic coating on headers and downpipe.:mad:
 
as stated above check the drain tube and make sure its tight and not cracked. They get brittle after a while. Good luck with it. Also be careful around the brass block. I tried to tighten what i thought was a leaking turbo feed line once and it turned out the brass block was cracked at the threads. As soon as i tried to tighten it the brass block snapped off clean. After the EZ out broke off in there i had to take it out and to my machine shop:( Also check the oil pressure sensor, they can crack and leak as well....


OOOO, I hope that's it. I had to tweak the return line a bit also.
 
if it is the return line, invest in a braided one for like esp or someone. i went through 3 stock ones that kept cracking and finally got the braided one and havent had a problem.

buickbert
 
It is the oil feed line. (at least the biggest offender)
The weird thing is that it's not at either end, it's at the lower bend.

Where to get a replacement?
I don't care if it's stock or stock looking, I care about daily driving quality.
 
If you have the money I'd get a filter relocation kit that let's you use a massive filter and makes sure the turbo always gets filtered oil.
 
Top