Just curious, what is the max boost people have ran with this turbo. I put 60# injectors and WBO2 in just the past summer. I had 42.5# injectors. With the bigger injectors I was able to turn down the Alky ramp rate from 5.5 to 4.0. I have never a seen a single degree of knock. I will be doing my last upgrade this year, I'm getting a bigger IC. I'm sure it won't hurt. Right now, I'm 25psi of boost on a good tune. When Milan opens up this spring, I will be out there as early as I can. Making some passes with my WBO2 and Powerlogger. I will also go some reading and see what info. I can gather. I bet if I searched I TE44, I would probably find out more information.
TE44 Max Boost
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
The T04e 60 trim compressor is done around 50lbs/min. So making more than about 515fwhp is not very easy and probably wont happen on a low revving ohv engine. Its more of a volume wheel than a pressure wheel and peaks around 2.2:1 pressure raito. Its hard to get all that flow out of it on an LC2 with a stage 3 turbine. Ive ran one (PT51) with the wastegate closed and it made around 450whp on an engine with ok heads and off the shelf 212/212 but it has a larger T350 turbine. With the stage 3 turbine (TA49) it made around 390whp on that same engine on the same day with the wastegate closed. The extra mass flow came from the ex side. If i recall the boost was 23-24. It wouldnt make anymore on that engine. On a stock cam/head engine ive been in the high 20's with it. Keeping the rpm low and having a converter that doesnt slip is important when running a small turbo like that hard.
Thanks Bison. If I'm reading you correctly, in this case the turbine wheel is one of the biggest limiting factors. Can get it in, but not out. Maybe I'm wrong and need to go back to turbos 101. When I originally upgraded from stock to my current combo minus the ported heads, I really never had any intention of taking it to the strip. My car is a fairly nice example. I've never smoked crack, but I think taking these cars, or any fast car, down the 1320 is just as addictive. Once I did it, I was hooked. You immediately want to go faster. Next time I upgrade, which will probably include a rebuild of the short block with the typical billet mains and forged pistons and freshening up my Champion ported irons, I will have my goals in mind a head time and be very meticulous in parts selection and how I spend my dollars. We are talking a couple of years though, because I have spent too much money already and I will have to enjoy what I have. I want to be cautions so I don't damage anything or prematurely wear the turbo, which is what prompted me to ask about max boost of the TE44. If turning it up to 30# does nothing, then it might not hurt the turbo but no use in doing it if it doesn't yield anything.
Im surprised you were even able to get that much with a mildly ported set. Just a bowl cleanup is enough to get the mass flow high enough over 5000rpm to run the compressor out of breath
had its tungue out for sure,hard to get it over 120 mph but it would run just shy of 99 in the 1/8. the spray took it to 125, so my guess was it was out of compressor,i tried different ex housings thinking it was the hot side but the nos changed that theory.
It would take really good air to get over 120 with it. The N2O changes everything. I have used it with tremendous results too
Damn...I just got a CAS V4 and was hoping that would be enough at 25psi to get me to 120mph but I think I have been schooled that it's the hot side instead. I was hoping my old Dutt neck IC was holding me back...
usetaboost
SAY CAR RAMROD!!
- Joined
- May 4, 2005
Bison, with these smaller turbos, what affect does a cam change have on the upper rpm range? Is it wasted effort unless you have a larger turbine wheel? Would you want to go with a split duration or same duration? From what I've read on other forums you don't want a split duration for a turbo car.
Ive posted about cams many times. If you increase overlap and are out of turbo you just cut your throat on both ends. If the turbine is done at 5200 in one combo with a small cam like a 206 as an example and you increase duration in the cam you will rasie the rpm where the engine wants to peak but the turbo is already done so you just lost cylinder pressure down low and put the turbo where its blowing hot air. 300 rpm in 3rd gear on one of these engines if the converter is coupling is 5-6mph typically if your car is trapping 130mph or so. If you have a TE44 and are going 118mph and leaning on it hard and its ok to about 5100-5200 and you had a 200 intake duration and went to 212 you will slow down. The 212 will peak around 5200. The 44 would be done. The cam, turbine and compressor need to be working in the same window or its a turd. Anything with a stage3 turbine should have considerably more torque than hp or its cammed wrong or the converter isnt coupling for crap. A fast ramp roller with intake duration in the low to mid 190's with a set of heads that flows well at very low lift with a TE44 and mid 20's boost will kick ass all over the place if the converter can couple the torque. 550-600 ftlbs@3800rpm. Increasing the CR will help when you have backpressure. With a 212 cam you would never even see 500 ft lbs.
It will probably get you to 118mph with the converter locked. If you were at Cecil County on a cool day it would go over 120mph.
Thanks for the all the help. It's nice knowing I'm at least working the equipment that I have now for most of what it's worth. I've always noticed that my torque was higher than hp on most dynos, by at least 50-75 ft/lb more than hp and this explains it. When I switched cam, and gasket matched the intake ports to the heads etc, the hp seemed to come up quite a bit but I don't think it makes any more, maybe even less torque, than it did with untouched heads and a stock cam all else being equal.
The easiest way to increase torque on a turbo engine is increasing the boost pressure. You can pick a cam shaft and compressor that are efficient at the rpm you want to make power at. Increasing the CR will increase torque everywhere and is needed at a certain point when running heads up with back pressure.
TurboTnZ06
Go on red!
- Joined
- May 7, 2002
My old TE44.63 with stock stroke, bowl ported iron heads with stock sized valves, stock lower intake, 210/210 hyd roller on a 110 lsa, V4 and 110 race gas, maybe 24* race timing at just 18 psi indicated and converter locked, it put down 403 rwhp and 545 rwtq uncorrected at 21st Century Musclecars (Lingenfelter shop) in Dallas like 10 yrs ago. This graph at 18 psi was 360 rwhp from I think 3300 rpm all the way to 6400 rpm where the peak was 403 at 5200 rpm. That setup went high 11's at 115mph without locking the 180,000 mile stock D5 converter at the track. The same engine with a 3000 stall 9/11 and turbo swap to my current TE45a.63 and 27+ psi went 125-127 mph in the 1/4 mile and dynoed 500-595 rwhp and 695 rwtq down low. That was the most I could get out of it on 116 race gas and a JayC race chip back in the day...
Wow! Thanks for the info and nice tune/setup. I was hoping my TE44 .63 was going to get me over 120mph, but it doesn't sound like that's in the cards. It's such a good street turbo though. I'm thinking 6262jb, but I'm hesitant to change my current setup/tune. It really rips with just pump/alky at 20-25psi on the street. I have a similar motor setup as you and it looks like 120+mph is just a turbo away...
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