suspension upgrades?

87buickregal

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
what are the most common suspension upgrades for a regal. Upper and lower rear control arms? I've never really worked the suspension much and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction, maybe including what parts and vendors they've used on their cars too. That would be helpful. Thanks.
 
depends what you are doing
Nice driving car

All out drag car

Alll out road race

Middle of the road drive it to work/ to the track every so often.

Let us know and a proven setup will be posted.:D
 
The best upgrade that I have made to the suspension is a set of Bilstein shocks. They made an unbelievable difference.

Disclaimer: This is ASSUMING the rest of your suspension (bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings body mounts etc.) are in good shape.
 
Poly bushings are an upgrade that can make any car handle better

The only time they aren't desirable is if you are looking for a Cadillac (smooth and quiet) ride. Are they necessary? That is up to you to decide. They definitely make handling more precise. :D :cool:
 
I don't have any experience with it yet, but I've heard a lot of good things about HR Parts -n- Stuff. I saw their rear suspension package when I went to Maple Grove in August, and talked with Paul briefly at his display tent. As soon as I have the $$$, my GN will be wearing that complete setup. Probably gonna add a nice set of QA1's along with it.

Steve
 
Ok here is a proven setup and faily cheap

First be sure your steerring componets are all 100%

Then hallow front sway bar ( iroc-z -ws6 3rd gen )82-92

Front springs from the same car

kyb's all around

good stock rear springs

boxed uppers with 1LE camaro bushings

SSM lowers

you will get a decent ride it will handel WAY better and it is low buck.

you should be able to get the way bar/springs from almost any junkyark for about $50.00 total.
shock are 29.00 each at summit
lower are 150.00
bushings are $8.00
scrap steal for box in.
 
Here`s another combo for you. Fresh Moog HD rubber LCA bushings (or Del-a-lums if money`s no object). Ditto the rear LCAs. Edelbrock or Currie adj. rear UCAs with greasable spherical bearings on the frame end. You can adjust the pinion angle with them to tweak your launches and they center the rear better and eliminate a lot of non linear binding in the rear suspension when corner carving. Next the best shocks you can afford. KYB are ok, Bilstein or Koni are better. Adj. aluminum QA-1s are the real hot setup for a street (or street/strip) car though. Set em at 5 clicks in the front and 4 in the rear. The car will ride better than stock but with a LOT more control. Up front SC&C`s Street Comp Stage 2 package. You get adj. tubular upper control arms and 4 special tall stud modular balljoints. They`re greasable,rebuildable and stronger than stock. This setup corrects the poor stock front suspension geometry (by changing the camber gain from + to - and raising the RC height from 3" below the ground to about 2" above) and about 80% of the bumpsteer! It reduces body lean dramatically and makes the car stick like you wouldn`t believe...without a bigger front sway bar or stiff,hard riding springs (unless you want them). Align to the included specs. Finish it off with a 1" rear swaybar to get rid of a little more understeer and you`re all set. :) You can check out the SC&C parts at www.SCandC.com. Marcus
 
Yes,it`s intended for use with stock spindles and brakes or stock spindles with aftermarket upgrade brakes. 15" and even most 14" wheels work also. It`s a real nice step between stock GN and our no holds barred C-5 based G-5 suspension package. Marcus
 
DO THE SWAY BAR BUSHING BRACKETS HAVE TO BE CHANGED FOR THE 36MM FRONT SWAY BAR!!!! TO COMPENSATE FOR THE BIGGER BUSHING
 
****I just did the sway bar swap on my 87 GN, stock to 36 mm, and I didn't have to replace the bushing brackets, or the bushings.

I did take a box cutter and trim the outer "bumps" on the bracket bushings themselves (from the stock bar) so they would fit between the brackets with the new bar. Took some patience, but it allowed everything to bolt up together nicely. Ironically, the brackets I bought for the swap (36 mm) didn't line up right with the bolt holes on the frame rail, so they are sitting in my toolbox..

Billy
 
I GOT THE 36MM SWAY BAR,AND ORDERED THE MOOG BUSHINGS THAT FIT THE SWAYBAR, AND THEY SIT IN THE FACTORY BRACKETS GOOD, BUT WHEN MOUNTING, THE BUSHING IS ALMOST AN INCH OUT THE BRACKET, SO MOUNTING UP AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS SNUG, THERES A LOT OF SPACE UNTIL THE BUSHING SITS FLAT, AND LOOKS LIKE THE BRACKETS ARE GOING TO BEND TRYING TO TIGHTEN!! JUST TAKING THE BUMP OUT STILL ISNT GONNA CUT IT!! YOU SAID YOU USED STOCK BUSHINGS!! CAUSE THEY WONT FIT AROUND THE 36MM BAR!!
 
**** With the 36mm bar, my stock 32mm bushings wouldn't close all the way and left a little of the bar exposed on the back side when not all tightened down. Once I trimmed the outer edges like I mentioned in my earlier post, the tension from the bushing bracket just squeezed it all together to fit nice on my car once I bolted it all together.

The energy suspension bushings I bought for the bar had brackets that didn't seem to line up that well with the bolt holes in the frame, and neither did the GM 36mm brackets for the Camaro, so I decided to see if I could just trim the old bushings and make it work with the old brackets that were originally on the 32 mm bar. It took some work with the box cutter, and now the bushing has just enough meat on it to keep the sway bar from contacting the frame, but still fit with the stock brackets. I think others have mentioned using the stock brackets as well in the past with this bar, so I decided to give it a go without risking cutting up the harder Energy Suspension bushings. Worked well enough for me that I just left it all alone.

When I get back from a business trip later this week, I'll be happy to take some pics of my setup if you like.

Billy
 
Keep in mind that these cars were designed with a good deal of understeer. That makes lawyers happy but it`s not the quick or fun way through the twisties. Adding a larger front swaybar will make the car corner a tiny bit flatter but it will increase the degree of understeer even more. If you want the car to have more of that responsive sports car feel in the corners you`ll want to do the opposite. Leave the stock bar up front and substitute a 1" bar out back. The car will still corner flatter but it`ll feel much more lively and have much quicker/easier turn in. :cool: Marcus
 
3" downpipe applications

anyone have a problem with roasting passenger side rear upper control arm bushings after installing a large down pipe and headers.

the std heat shield didn't appear to fit in this application.

do scac uppers avoid this problem ?
 
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