Stroker crank issues: Need suggestions...

[J Banning]

Parts in question:
- CAT stroker crank.
- CAT SFI flexplate

Both parts were ordered from Full Throttle. Both are for internal balance. I called today to talk to tech support directly but was told they were out till Friday and to post my question on thier board. Unfortunately, their "general Buick tech" sections are not frequently visited/updates, so here I am. I need an answer ASAP in order to still have a chance to have a running car for the BPG event Aug 1-3 in Ohio as well as the 2 other races we have planed at E-Town in August…

My post on Full Throttle's Forum:
Need balancer key for crank, plus issue with SFI flexplate fitment... - Full Throttle Speed Tech Support


Issue # 1: I need the balancer key that fits in the snout of your stoker crank.
The slot that was cut from the factory is too wide to hold the OEM Buick size. This crank was purchased from last spring, included in their “stroker kit” – just now going together and in my car. How/where can I get this key?


Issue #2: The SFI flexplate does not sit flush on the end of the crank.
The crank has a rolled fillet (or whatever you want to call it) where the flexplate mounts. Either the flexplate needs to be clearanced or the crank needs to be cut on this spot. What do you recommend I do to resolve this issue?



Thanks.

 

[DR BOOST]

i dont know the answer to #1 but the flywheel is usually clearanced with a die grinder.

 

[turbotman]

I got a key from TA performance for my cat stroker, and you might want a longer crank Bolt and washer from them as well if your planning on using an aftermarket balancer like a BHJ.
I used a JW flexplate and there were no issues on the crank.

 

[Turbo1dr]

#1. Get a machine shop to cut you a key to fit into the crank and have them narrow the top so your balancer with fit without splitting it when you put it on. Also check to see if the balancer fits snug on the snout of the crank. I had to get my crank knurled and then I tightened the doodie out of it.

#2. Taper the flywheel with a die grinder until you get a bevel that will clear the rolled edge of the crank. Don't grind the hold bigger; just do the rear side of the flywheel while keeping the diameter of the hole the same. This will allow the flywheel to stay centered on the crank when you bolt it down and still be flush.

 

[ijames]

As others said, bevel the flywheel hole with a die grinder or maybe a file. I bought a key kit from Weber Racing for either $20 or 30, it is a piece of shim stock to go beside the key in the crank slot so you can use your stock key.

 

[Chrisk]

I just installed 2 cat sfi flywheels and had to use a die-grinder to get them on.