Still Cutting Out At High RPMs. What To Try Next?

Thanks. I will make a couple of cam sensor cap adjustments before I jump on valve springs or coil/ignition pack.
That probably won't change anything,but it's worth trying. The best way to test is to replace.
 
I wouldn't adjust the cam sensor just yet.... Start your car. Disconnect the cam sensor plug while the engine is running and take it for a ride. If your miss fire goes away you just found your issue. Your engine will stay running without the sensor hooked up. Just make sure you plug it back in when you are done.
 
I wouldn't adjust the cam sensor just yet.... Start your car. Disconnect the cam sensor plug while the engine is running and take it for a ride. If your miss fire goes away you just found your issue. Your engine will stay running without the sensor hooked up. Just make sure you plug it back in when you are done.
Yes,Duh,this is how I confirmed mine.
 
I wouldn't adjust the cam sensor just yet.... Start your car. Disconnect the cam sensor plug while the engine is running and take it for a ride. If your miss fire goes away you just found your issue. Your engine will stay running without the sensor hooked up. Just make sure you plug it back in when you are done.

I Will test the cap next. I also went ahead and ordered a BWD E45 coil from advance auto. I noticed when I removed it that the filler compound was very runny, and a bright blue color. Even though it ohmed out okay, about 12k on each block, I felt I should replace it next.
 
I drove it today with the cam sensor cap removed and it still cut out. It also blasted out a big back fire so I turned around and parked it. I will try the new coil by saturday. I feel like Im getting close. It pulls okay and feels realy good until I push it hard. although at 12-15 lbs of boost, Im not really pushing it that hard. Got my fingers crossed on the new coil.
 
Did you remove the cap? Did it cut out during a shift?

I unplugged the cap while the car was running and then drove it down the highway. It did seem to cut out as it was about to hit another gear under WOT. It does fine if I just roll into it or dont floor the pedal.
 
Double check the boost guage connection. I sure would hate that you are reading 15psi on the guage and the motor is seeing 20psi
 
Double check the boost guage connection. I sure would hate that you are reading 15psi on the guage and the motor is seeing 20psi

will do. I have the adjustable actuator turned all the way out, or on the lowest setting, and th RJC regulator almost all the way on the low side. Im really trying not to blow another head gasket. I hope the coil helps out.
 
Have you pressurized the system to see if you have an intake leak?

Bryan
 
Have you pressurized the system to see if you have an intake leak?

Whats the best way to pressurize the system? I have seen an adapter that fits overt the plenum air intake with a fitting to hook up an air hose.
 
Whats the best way to pressurize the system? I have seen an adapter that fits overt the plenum air intake with a fitting to hook up an air hose.
 
Whats the best way to pressurize the system? I have seen an adapter that fits overt the plenum air intake with a fitting to hook up an air hose.

Go to your hardware store and buy a PVC pipe cap that is the same size as your up pipe. Drill and tap for an air fitting, hook up a regulated air source of 20 psi. Be sure to remove your rockers to make sure all valves are closed. If there is a leak you will hear it and may even feel it as I did.

Had I not listened to Richard Clark in May after assembling my engine there, I would be chasing a problem myself. Richard almost insisted that I check it before installation. I had already adjusted my valves ( I have individual Scorpion roller rockers) and the intake was machined by Richards machinist while I was there. I thought there was no way in hell it would be possible to have a leak....WRONG !!!! JD was helping me with the engine, he was on one side of the intake and I was on the other, he tightened his side before I did causing a gap on my side that was not even visible. When I finally decided that I would listen to Richard and test it, I could feel the air from about 6 inches away. Good luck

Bryan
 
Maybe while I have the rockers off I can go ahead and replace the valve springs? I will surely pressurize the intake and check for leaks. My coil arrived Friday with a broken terminal, so maybe by Tuesday and can test it with a new coil.
 
Okay, I replaced the coil today and made several WOT runs with no popping or missing, until I turned on the AC. So it does great until the engine gets a load from the AC compressor, which itself is fairly new. Not sure whats next. I will probably do an air leak test on the intake next. Need to go get a PVC cap and an air fitting.
 
Okay, I replaced the coil today and made several WOT runs with no popping or missing, until I turned on the AC. So it does great until the engine gets a load from the AC compressor, which itself is fairly new. Not sure whats next. I will probably do an air leak test on the intake next. Need to go get a PVC cap and an air fitting.
when the ac is on and you go wot the a/c shuts off. so either the new coil pack is still no good or it is weak
 
scanmaster showed 13.5 Volts while I was driving. I may have a bad ignition module? I posted a picture of it on another post earlier today. It has alot of blue runny sticky material on top of the ignition module where the coil sits.

GN coil.jpg
 
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