Steel wastegate line

[DougsfastZ]

I've lost a few wastegate vacuum lines in the past and needed a solution. I was swapping out my old GN1 wastegate and manual boost controller for a JGS 400R and boost solenoid for my new ISAC boost.meth controller. Originally I was going to go with 1/4" push-to-connect to match my fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor and Hobbs switch vacuum lines. In talking with Lance at JGS, we came to the conclusion that the push-to-connect PTFE tube wouldn't hold up to the heat that is near a wastegate so I decided to use hard line.

I picked up several feet of 1/4" steel tube (brake line at the auto parts store) and 1/4" compression to 1/8" NPT fittings. The picture below is how it turned out. I'm very happy with the results and look to test it next week.

 

[aminga]

I've been running my push lock (truck air line) for about 6 months now. Remember The factory used a rubber hose

 

[novaderrik]

I've lost a few wastegate vacuum lines in the past and needed a solution. I was swapping out my old GN1 wastegate and manual boost controller for a JGS 400R and boost solenoid for my new ISAC boost.meth controller. Originally I was going to go with 1/4" push-to-connect to match my fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor and Hobbs switch vacuum lines. In talking with Lance at JGS, we came to the conclusion that the push-to-connect PTFE tube wouldn't hold up to the heat that is near a wastegate so I decided to use hard line.

I picked up several feet of 1/4" steel tube (brake line at the auto parts store) and 1/4" compression to 1/8" NPT fittings. The picture below is how it turned out. I'm very happy with the results and look to test it next week.

what are you doing for vibration isolation? a flexible line will let everything move relative to everything else and not transmit vibrations and will allow for some engine movement, the hard lines hook everything together nice and solid. i'd bet that something will break prematurely the way you've got it..

 

[DougsfastZ]

I've been running my push lock (truck air line) for about 6 months now. Remember The factory used a rubber hose

A factory type rubber hose cost me a motor when I lost it on the FPR. I'm going to over build everything vacuum wise.

what are you doing for vibration isolation? a flexible line will let everything move relative to everything else and not transmit vibrations and will allow for some engine movement, the hard lines hook everything together nice and solid. i'd bet that something will break prematurely the way you've got it..

Both motor mounts are polys. I've watch the motor build 10+ psi of boost on the brakes with minimal movement. I'll certainly keep on eye for any issues and if I need too I'll run -4an braided.

 

[SHADOWII]

what are you doing for vibration isolation? a flexible line will let everything move relative to everything else and not transmit vibrations and will allow for some engine movement, the hard lines hook everything together nice and solid. i'd bet that something will break prematurely the way you've got it..

At first glance, I thought you had solid motor mounts. If not, I would agree w/novaderrik. If you had formed a couple of loops in the lines or maybe leave the valve suspended, you may avoid damage down the road if you loose a cylinder or something that will cause the engine to rock harshly. But the job looks great.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Here is how I did mine.

Complete thread on how I plumbed ALL lines subject to boost. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/tr-custom-parts-billet-vacuum-block-how-i-plumbed-it.380004/page-1

Agreed! All solid lines might present their own issues in the future, would especially be concerned on the lines going to the radiator support. Looks nice though.

 

[SHADOWII]

Gee Mark, when are you going to clean out that engine bay!.........lol