Speedo failure (not the swimwear!)

SITHV6

Move against the Jedi 1st
Joined
Sep 21, 2002
Well, before the fuel pump issue, the dashboard connection not allowing the alternator to charge, aaaaand a brake issue..... my speedo stopped working completely. While trying to bring the Ttype to a friends house to show off the rebuild, I hopped up on the Turnpike and immediatey noticed that my usual squeaking speedo was suspiciously quiet. Lo' and behold there WAS NO happilly squeaking and bouncing speedo needle to greet me. No biggie, I'll just flip thru the scanmaster menu and get a reading on my mph.....mph......mph....hmmmmmm 00's.... %$#@! No readings. Car felt happy to and from friends house, BUT I Did notice it took a lot more gas than it should! Odd... While flipping through the settings trying to find MPH on the SM I Did notice a MAL code of 24.....VSS. A few articles on here stated that the VSS sensor was not only responsible for Torque conv lockup/Overdrive , but if u have a TT chip, its kiiiiinda mission critical to have VSS imputs to function properly. What could have caused the 30 year old car to lose its infamously familliar squeaking speedo? A 30 year, 300,000+ mile PLASTIC 30 tooth speedo gear maybe? speedo.jpegWhat's funny is the original has a solid keyed metal shaft, and the one Gbodyparts and JEGS etc offer are solid plastic. Hey, fits like a glove...speedo works....and my squeaking companion is quiet yet functioning again =3.
 
It was only squeaking because it needed lubrication. Now it's broke because you didn't lubricate it.

You need to pull the dash cluster and reach behind it. (PITA!!!) Disconnect it (untwist it), pull it out and replace it. Also, there is no way of knowing if it was the lower half (transmission to fitting) or the upper half (fitting to gauge cluster). But you can be almost certain that it is the upper half. Because this is the bigger PITA!
 
It was only squeaking because it needed lubrication. Now it's broke because you didn't lubricate it.

You need to pull the dash cluster and reach behind it. (PITA!!!) Disconnect it (untwist it), pull it out and replace it. Also, there is no way of knowing if it was the lower half (transmission to fitting) or the upper half (fitting to gauge cluster). But you can be almost certain that it is the upper half. Because this is the bigger PITA!
My Mechanic told me the original lubricant had turned to the consistency of 'glue' and caused it to stick. I just hope whatever lubricant in a can he sprayed in both ends works. Its not bouncing or squeaking now. I'll find out for sure tomorrow when I pick it up.
 
Usually when the driven gear is shot the drive gear is shot also


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Usually when the driven gear is shot the drive gear is shot also


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^^^^this

And when you get sticker shock over the price of a new 11 tooth drive (governor) gear, it may be easier and cheaper to convert the stock 11/30 combo to a 10/27 combo, keeping the ratio the same but saving you a bunch of stress. the driven gears are cheap, its the governor gear that'll get you
 
^^^^this

And when you get sticker shock over the price of a new 11 tooth drive (governor) gear, it may be easier and cheaper to convert the stock 11/30 combo to a 10/27 combo, keeping the ratio the same but saving you a bunch of stress. the driven gears are cheap, its the governor gear that'll get you
*Winces* Hope all is well on the tranny side speedo drive. Trans mech said the other end looked and felt fine. Its still pretty new, so i'm hoping it survived just fine. never did like the idea of plastic on plastic....or PLASTIC at all for that matter lol. I gett he car back today, so I'll see whats up.
 
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