Something strange going on!

If vom has no buzzer for continuity, youll have to look for 0 ohms like us old timers had to. Still say, you need to get a wire to mess up. If car is working, the wires will ohm out correctly.
 
OK guys, help me out here. When it comes to checking for electrical problems I rate a "zero". I disconnected the ignition module connector and had the key in the off position. Using a Radio Shack volt meter I set it where it shows .OL on the screen. I put the ground wire on a bolt on the firewall and then started touching each terminal on the connector. They all remained at .OL except for the first two closest to the firewall which I believe is est and bypass. They read 1.4 and 1.7. Should they show a reading or should they remain at .OL like the rest? Like I said I really don't have a clue! Thanks, R. B.
 
OK, I know that last post didn't make much sense. But here's what it's doing pretty consistantly. Any time the rpm's get in the 3000-3200 range it starts missing and bucking violently, in any gear! Accelerate slightly and it stops! The tps goes up smoothly when I checked it. Like I said in an earlier post I swapped the coil pack and ignition module with a known good one with the same results. I really believe it's in the ignition module connector somewhere but can't seem to find it! Very frustrating! :(
 
What else will make it miss, hesitate, stumble at a certain rpm as 3000-3200 in every gear? Confused!
 
Alright!!!!! I got it to stop missing but not exactly sure why! I unplugged the cam sensor with it running and drove it around and it never missed a lick! Shut the car off, reconnected the cam sensor, reset the ecm, and now..............no more miss! Go figure!!! LOL !!!
 
Well ****!!! That only lasted til the next time I cranked it! Missing again!!! WTF???
 
do all the coil ends of the spark plug wires snap on tightly
sometimes the internal ring/band inside the wire that grabs tightly onto the coil pack and crack and/or break
this can cause a loose fit and cause a misfire under load
-dan
 
Unplug the cam sesor again and see if the miss goes away - if so you found the source of your problem. I had a similar issue and the interrupter ring (I think that's what it's called) on top of the cam sensor worked itself loose.
 
Unplugged it this morning and drove 12 miles to work without one single miss! Now to try and figure out if it's the whole cam sensor, the cap or ring, or a bad wire someplace!! :( Damn, it's never easy!
 
It could be the cam sensor but I would look at the temp sensors.

With the engine cold(ie not started at all) What does the coolant and IAT sensors read?
 
Going to work on it this weekend but in the meantime, if it is the cam sensor, can someone explain what's going on when this happens? I mean, what makes this happen at 3000-3200 rpm's exclusively? I dont want to have to change the whole cam sensor if it's for an example, the connector or maybe a bad wire somewhere. BTW, where do the three wires from the cam sensor go? One ground, one to the ignition module, and one to the ecm??? Thanks, R.B.
 
It's not the cam sensor. You wiggled the CCCI connector wiring and it stumbled, so there is a major clue. You can't test defective terminal spring tension with a voltmeter. I have seen MANY problems with the CCCI terminals failing because of lack of spring tension internally. The only fix is to replace each terminal, or preferably, replace the entire connector with a splice end.

FIX: Replace the connector end.

As for the stumbling, I'd also look at the EGR valve. If you carbon it up enough, it will hang slightly open, causing a stumble and odd running mid-range. Once you get into closed loop (warmed up), the EGR is fully operating and you would see an improvement. Up until that time, a hung-up EGR will give you fits.
 
Thanks John, just for the hell of it I swapped the cam sensor cap out from my other car and it fixed it! Now, where can you buy just the cap? All the major parts stores won't just sell the cap, they want you to order the whole thing! :(
 
It's baaaaack !!! Started doing the same bucking under light acceleration. Going to swap caps again tomorrow to see what happens. The one thing that I did notice this time was the a/f ratio gauge. It was going anywhere from 12.6 to 15.9 during the bucking! Whatever that might mean. :confused:
 
The one thing that I did notice this time was the a/f ratio gauge. It was going anywhere from 12.6 to 15.9 during the bucking! Whatever that might mean. :confused:

Sounds like ignition breakdown. Could be connection at the ignition module, crank sensor, or computer especially it its a t-top car when it comes to the computer. They usually get a lot of moisture down around the kick panel.
 
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