Something strange going on!

rb68rr

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
For the last week when I leave for work and before the car reaches operating temperature it will start missing before each shift! Once it reaches 160* it stops missing! Just replaced the plugs because I thought that might be the problem, but didn't help. Anybody ever experience this? Thanks, R.B. BTW, if I accelerate a little during the missing it will go away.
 
For the last week when I leave for work and before the car reaches operating temperature it will start missing before each shift! Once it reaches 160* it stops missing! Just replaced the plugs because I thought that might be the problem, but didn't help. Anybody ever experience this? Thanks, R.B. BTW, if I accelerate a little during the missing it will go away.

Has the ambient temperature been colder lately?
 
Id say your fighting with a bad coil pack or module! Reason being the cold air and high moisture content in the air usually brings out the issue..
,Dan
 
Thanks Dan, that makes sense. May swap the one from my other car and see what happens .
 
BTW, if I accelerate a little during the missing it will go away.

You may be running a little rich. The TT chips tend to run a little fat at cooler temps. I have had to "tweak" mine a little bit to get rid of the problem.
 
You could take a small vac hose off to see if it stops, ifn it does, its rich.
 
I haven't had a chance to swap coil pack yet. However, last night when I turned the car off for about 5 min it wouldn't restart. I wiggled the connector on the ignition module and it fired right up! Do I have a bad connector, wire or ignition module? How do I diagnose the problem? Thanks, R.B.
 
Yes it's tight. Is there a way of checking each pin or wire on the module and connector with a volt meter or something?
 
I went with type II & never have had any issues. The type I (GN original) failed 2 times in about as many years.

Find a type II on an 88 or later 3.8 in the boneyard, for less $ than any part of the type I (module or coil pak).
 
Thanks Dan, that makes sense. May swap the one from my other car and see what happens .

Check the OHMs on the three coils on the coil pak and see if they are in range. I believe it is 11-13 ohms. My problem was coil pak. Brad
 
OK, i just swapped coil pack and ignition module from my other car and I still have the same problem! Must be the connector. All the pins look good however. Any way of figuring out which wire is the one giving me trouble?
 
With it running , how about pulling on wires until it quits, then getting it started again an trying same thing with 1 wire at a time. Otherwise, u could estimate where u think the open (not short) is, then break into wire with a pin one at a time.ge a vom and measure at the pin and to the other terminal pin-out for continuity.
 
What should each one read on the voltmeter when you go from pin to connector?
 
First, maybe try what i said about wiggling to get engine to stop to isolate.
The other vom testing is with car off...just setting vom on "continuity", best to use one that will whistle when cont is reached. Not looking for a voltage, just hi ohmic value that would indicate an open/marginal wire not making a good connection. I figure it is at the wire end at pack where most bending takes place...thje internal copper strands can be frayed while insulation is normal looking.
 
Tried wiggling and couldn't even make it miss! Don't know what i'm doing with the volt meter. Could you explain in detail the volt meter checking process? Sorry. confused.
 
Problem is, if u cant make it fail , then the wires will check out ok. Anyway, the contiunity test is testing to make sure a wire isnt broken (open). Does yur vom have a tone ?
 
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