I use a Fabco needle valve to control boost, and it spools quick and gives precise control, but I'm always open to new ideas, although Ive tried pressure regulators, tuner style, pressure regulators with the factory solenoid, etc. I just bought a grainger valve from mcmaster and drille dthe .020" hole in the end and all that, but I dont see what the purpose is for flipping the ball to the other side, other than the fact that pounding an angle fitting into the adjustment side may distort the seat that the ball sits on. I tapped mine and screwed a fitting in, instead of hammering a fitting in, so it should be fine.
Ive searched on here and read alot, but it seems like everyone has a preference. Some use the factory Y fitting in the equation, some use a bleeder AND the grainger, some run it direct (RJC style)..
Graingers and all the similar ones (Q-Boost, RJC), dont stay closed and then "pop" open to open the wastegate. They're more or less flow controls. It just limits the flow rate into the wastegate diaphragm, so that by the time the wastegate fills and opens the gate, boost is high. Im wondering why people dont use manifold pressure as the source for the wastegate, given theres usually a 2-3psi drop between the turbo and manifold. It seems it could be a source of spike. Has anyone tried manifold pressure instead?
SO I guess I want to hear what method worked best for you, with a grainger style controller.
When I tried tuner style a couple years ago, I couldnt get boost high enough. I had to tighten the living hell out of the wastegate arm and even then I had like 10psi. If I run it direct like the RJC one, it will limit the flow rate, which will delay wastegate filling, but when it finally opens, boost will be dependent on the spring tension in the wastegate, and at that point, it's essentially "tuner" style.
Am I wrong? If so, why?
And for the sake of quick spooling, it seems like it would be beneficial to drill a small vent hole at the entry end as well, which will bleed off the first, say, 10psi very quickly, until the flow rate exceeds what the little vent can flow, and pressure starts to pass the ball bearing and fill the wastegate. But I want to get your thoughts before drilling more holes.
Ive searched on here and read alot, but it seems like everyone has a preference. Some use the factory Y fitting in the equation, some use a bleeder AND the grainger, some run it direct (RJC style)..
Graingers and all the similar ones (Q-Boost, RJC), dont stay closed and then "pop" open to open the wastegate. They're more or less flow controls. It just limits the flow rate into the wastegate diaphragm, so that by the time the wastegate fills and opens the gate, boost is high. Im wondering why people dont use manifold pressure as the source for the wastegate, given theres usually a 2-3psi drop between the turbo and manifold. It seems it could be a source of spike. Has anyone tried manifold pressure instead?
SO I guess I want to hear what method worked best for you, with a grainger style controller.
When I tried tuner style a couple years ago, I couldnt get boost high enough. I had to tighten the living hell out of the wastegate arm and even then I had like 10psi. If I run it direct like the RJC one, it will limit the flow rate, which will delay wastegate filling, but when it finally opens, boost will be dependent on the spring tension in the wastegate, and at that point, it's essentially "tuner" style.
Am I wrong? If so, why?
And for the sake of quick spooling, it seems like it would be beneficial to drill a small vent hole at the entry end as well, which will bleed off the first, say, 10psi very quickly, until the flow rate exceeds what the little vent can flow, and pressure starts to pass the ball bearing and fill the wastegate. But I want to get your thoughts before drilling more holes.
