smoke blows out of the valve cover

JE and a few others make new forged ones Jim. Do a sarch on evilbay and I'm sure you can find some.:)
 
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Here is a few pics, everone new to the game please learn from jimski's mistakes!! too much knock
 
Well the nice thing is that's a very late 85 up RWD block Jim, not an earlier one. You miht want to look in the general section about using the FWD roller lifters instaed of flat tappet ones. Since the lifters are available out of a scrap yard and can be reused all you really need to buy is a roller cam and read up on how to do the swap.:)
 
Well the nice thing is that's a very late 85 up RWD block Jim, not an earlier one. You miht want to look in the general section about using the FWD roller lifters instaed of flat tappet ones. Since the lifters are available out of a scrap yard and can be reused all you really need to buy is a roller cam and read up on how to do the swap.:)
Steer me in the right direction, i might know how to work on these but im no engine builder. This is why i ask alot of questions.
 
Do you want to go flat tappet or roller Jim? That's the first question. It might be easier to go through email if you're interested.:)
 
Not going to be much to gain unless you are building a beast. Whatever you decide to do just make sure you keep a tight single pattern duration.
 
Do you want to go flat tappet or roller Jim? That's the first question. It might be easier to go through email if you're interested.:)

Ill stick with the easy stuff flat tappet it is. Pistons is where my problem lies right now. I have no ideal if standard forged aftermarket pistons will fit the standard bore of the block and can i use my 2 dot rods with them? The piston bores are ok and ill just hone them out. Ill get the crank polished and use standard new bearings, but which ones? I like hasting molly rings used them in the 350 and no blowby even after 70,000 miles but will they fit aftermarket forged pistons. Im thinking forged becouse they are stronger pistons.

If u can point in the right direction ill be back on the road here, i was going to go with a bigblock in the car but man i was getting good gas milage with the turbo and it was fast.
 
I doubt that you'll find a stock NOS piston cheap so forged or hyper is about the only option. Hypers have a tendancy to be a little knock sensitive so I'd stay away from them. Do a search on evilbay for JE pistons for the Bucik V6 and I know someone is selling STD size. on there. You could see if you can get the TRW forged but I think they're out of production right now. Part number is L2481-STD if you want to try Jegs or Summit.
 
standard size stock pistons are cheap. I'd go with them if you can keep the block standard bore
 
If by chance you mix up any of the rods and place them on a differant crank pin you'll never be able to turn the crank again. It'll lock up on ya, and you'll have to have the rods and crank machined if you can't find were the rod was originally on the crank. Happened to me with three rods and I spent several days testing until I got the rods on correctly were they were removed from.
 
If by chance you mix up any of the rods and place them on a differant crank pin you'll never be able to turn the crank again. It'll lock up on ya, and you'll have to have the rods and crank machined if you can't find were the rod was originally on the crank. Happened to me with three rods and I spent several days testing until I got the rods on correctly were they were removed from.

So if i use new bearings im screwed? even if they are on the same crank pin
 
No. It's just the rods. Can't mix up the rod caps either. Since you're replacing the pistons you'll have to farm out the work anyway because a press is needed to remove and press the pins onto the rods. The two dots on the rods indicate the direction it should be facing, (towards the rear or front of the engine). The two marks on the oem piston also indicate the direction of were they should be facing.
 
No. It's just the rods. Can't mix up the rod caps either. Since you're replacing the pistons you'll have to farm out the work anyway because a press is needed to remove and press the pins onto the rods. The two dots on the rods indicate the direction it should be facing, (towards the rear or front of the engine). The two marks on the oem piston also indicate the direction of were they should be facing.

Good tips thanks, im going to get the crank polished so I will let the machine shop put the rods and pistons together and check the specs, since that's my weak point.
 
No. It's just the rods. Can't mix up the rod caps either. Since you're replacing the pistons you'll have to farm out the work anyway because a press is needed to remove and press the pins onto the rods. The two dots on the rods indicate the direction it should be facing, (towards the rear or front of the engine). The two marks on the oem piston also indicate the direction of were they should be facing.
Holy crap it's Fred!
 
jimski--

What car is your motor from?

Very recently I looked inside an '83 NA motor. Its pistons look EXACTLY like yours, in every detail (the design details, I mean, not the cracks).
 
Sorry, I just noticed this is an older thread, in a more recent one you say it's an NA block. With the 109 casting I assume it's the original motor in the '84 Olds.

In the past b4black has said it's ok to convert an NA block with NA pistons to a turbo, so long as you keep ignition and boost close to stock and run premium octane gas. But your pistons don't look too encouraging. What did you do to that thing, anyway?
 
Take a look in the 86/87 section and you'll find many people have used NA short block with success. Of course there is a limit, but they perform better than expected. I wouldn't hesitate using one.
 
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