slant 6/2004R conversion

A

akb4747

New Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
hello all. i am putting an Extreme Automatics 200-4R behind my slant 6 powered 1984 Dodge D100 short bed..................






ok, now that you have stopped LAUGHING, here are some details of the truck;
1984 Dodge D100 shorty, about 3800 lbs. (i think close to the Buicks?)
1967 slant 6 225, bored .084, long rods (from a 198), Wiseco Pro-Tru forged pistons, forged crank
Oregon Cams grind #346 - .262/.252 @.020, 106 lsa, installed at 104 icl., .476/.479 lift at valve
(the slant likes more intake duration)
oversize stainless valves, 1.70/1.44, head ported
9.8:1 scr/8.2:1 dcr
edelbrock performer 500cfm, offenhauser 4 barrel intake, hooker 6/1 header w/2.5" outlet and 2.5 single exhaust.
desktop dyno says 225hp/350ft/lbs.
3.92 sure-grip rear/28" tall tires

any advice with the 200-4R install would be great.

if interested, the thread at slantsix.org is here;
slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53702&sid=c80e656f9b3990da76c8d61cdf8f7776

and photos here;
s837.photobucket.com/user/akbmotorsports/library/?sort=3&page=1

thanks and have a great day, andy:cool:
 
No laughing here and I think you've picked an interesting project.;) Just wondering why one of those edlecrap carbs though.:confused:
 
thanks, and agreed, you won't see many edelbrocks on serious race cars, but for a "spirited daily driver with short bursts of speed", its a pretty good carb. (plus, its paid for) i have had this one for 20+ years and it is very consistent, easily tuned, and i have gotten most of the "edelbog" out of it. if i wanted a "race car with short street cruises", i would get a holley.

andy
 
i have a Wilcap adapter kit, but would like to know more about the new bell.

andy
wilcap2_zps1b4fb5e8.jpg
 
In the tranny section there's a thread all about it that should be in the first or second page. It was posted last week I believe.
 
Sounds neat. No dumber than screwing with general motors v6 junk...

Couple things you need to be aware of: the tv cable on the trans is very, very important. You will need to get the kit to give the edelbrock carb the correct geometry (same kit as 700-r4). Adjust the cable so it maxes out at the exact moment the throttle hits wot. No more, no less. Without that cable and geometry being dead nuts accurate, it will never work right at part throttle and could even burn up the trans.

Is your 200-4r going to have a lockup torque converter or is it being converted to nonlock? We can go through options for lockup as well.

Speedometer can be calibrated to be accurate too but we need to know how many revs/mile the dodge speedo is calibrated for. Or you can assemble and guess later :)

Good luck with the shifter. Unless you are going floor shift with cable I think id take a gbody linkage bracket and assembly for the bottom end and mate it to the dodge arm somewhere along the firewall.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
thanks for the replies. keep the advice coming.

i have the sonnax throttle corrector kit, and also have Lokar throttle and tv cables. i have read up on the tv adjustment and what i think is correct is, as stated, the wot adjustment, and at idle you don't want the tv cable to "influence" the valve, but the instant the accelerator pedal is depressed, the valve should also move, and will be indicated by pressure increase. in lonnies installation instructions, it says there is a line scribed on the valve so the correct position can be obtained with pan off, before filling with fluid. please correct me if i am wrong.

it is a lockup and am leaning toward a simple toggle/relay cicuit for control.

the speedo in the truck is non-functional and i plan to use an aftermarket of an unknown (at this time) type.

i was going to use a lokar trans mounted shifter, but have decided to use the original column shifter. i think it will be an easy job requiring only a rod and universal/adjustable shift lever.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/ACA...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIrU54qPz7oCFcZFMgodFh4AuQ

have a great day, andy:cool:
 
If you have the right carb geometry kit/bracket, adjust the wot to bottom out and the idle SHOULD be correct. Off a bit at idle is a way better scenario than off at wot.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
akb4747 said:
thanks for the replies. keep the advice coming.

i have the sonnax throttle corrector kit, and also have Lokar throttle and tv cables. i have read up on the tv adjustment and what i think is correct is, as stated, the wot adjustment, and at idle you don't want the tv cable to "influence" the valve, but the instant the accelerator pedal is depressed, the valve should also move, and will be indicated by pressure increase. in lonnies installation instructions, it says there is a line scribed on the valve so the correct position can be obtained with pan off, before filling with fluid. please correct me if i am wrong.

it is a lockup and am leaning toward a simple toggle/relay cicuit for control.

the speedo in the truck is non-functional and i plan to use an aftermarket of an unknown (at this time) type.

i was going to use a lokar trans mounted shifter, but have decided to use the original column shifter. i think it will be an easy job requiring only a rod and universal/adjustable shift lever.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/ACA...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIrU54qPz7oCFcZFMgodFh4AuQ

have a great day, andy:cool:
Click to expand...

No scibed line i need to change that. Your magic number is .840 at idle position. Same concept as scribe marks but a measurement.
 
Get a GPS speedo for a speed boat. Those are pretty easy to get calibrated right.


I could really use OD on my '72 Dodge van with a slant 6. The fuel savings would leave me with more candy money.
 
hello. its been a freaking winter wonderland around here, but i am finally ready to fill the trans and get back on the road. after just a bit of tweaking on the sonnax throttle corrector i have achieved the recommended TV cable geometry (.840 at idle and wot) as per lonnies installation sheet. i am hoping the pressure gauge will verify. i repaired the original speedo cable so we'll see if my speedo gauge works. i installed a VDO electric trans psi gauge as a permanent fixture for monitor, Denny's steel driveshaft. and will use dexron 6 fluid.

any tips on initial run-in from those of you who have been where i am greatly appreciated. otherwise i have double and triple checked everything i can. it has been a fun challenge getting all of these different parts to work on my budget. all in all i'd say everything went together pretty well, the Wilcap adapter has been perfect fit. the adapter and trans install was the easiest part. making all the cables, brackets, mounts etc. took the most time but i am pretty satisfied with it so far. but the proof's in the pudding!!

andy :cool:

photos coming soon
 
thanks jayj. i filled the trans today, took 9.5 quarts, i am using a lokar flexible dipstick, so i hope its correct.

no TV readings;
P-110
R-200
N-110
D-110
3-110
2-325
1-325

lonnies chart says "250+' for 1 and 2 so what should i make of my high readings there? readings are the same with TV connected.

other than that, all went well with no sparks, oil gushers or leaks.

i didn't drive it yet, waiting on answer on the high pressure readings.

andy :cool:
 
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