selecting a cam and valvetrain for my build

nolanator

@none_more_black
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
I know this topic has been beaten to death multiple times, but as you know, different profiles are going to be chosen depending on each person's unique goals, so if you don't mind, could you help someone with a very limited amount of knowledge on these engines select a cam?

I am building my car in the hopes of achieving a 9.99ET., and this is what will be going into it. It is a hardened 109 block ( billet main caps, studs, and filled partially) with the following internals:

-Eagle 4340 crank 3.400
-Molnar 5.960 billet rods
-JE 2618 0.030 pistons

The turbo is a Precision 6766CEA. My current converter is an Art Carr 9.5" NLU with a 3500 stall. My heads are ported irons, and i plan on gutting the factory internals for a little more speed friendly option, so what should i do?

Currently the car has a 206/206 Comp billet roller. This cam is great for low end, but leaves a bit to be desired in the higher RPMs.

I plan on getting this setup:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/tu...revolution-x-roller-cam-kit-morel-lifter.html
but don't know what grind. 214/214? 215/220? 220/224?

I will also be looking into the valvetrain, but I'm unsure of what rockers I should go with and if i should be looking into the higher end shaft style stuff.

This car will not be daily driven, and will be running on e85 with a TurboTweak SD2 handling management.

Thanks in advance for your assistance!
 
You could do it with the 206, but if you are there and want to change then I'd move up to their 210/215 or the 214/214 you listed.

With the porter irons you're kind of limited to standard shaft style, the HS and the TD are both nice pieces....some say you don't need them as long as you have some HD shafts but it can't hurt and will only add stability to your valve train which is always a good thing.
 
The 206 will do it.
The 210/215 and 214/214 listed are 2 totally different animals. The 210/215 has milder lobes, and is an awesome cam. It works with PAC 1201 springs, std roller lifters, and can be used with stock rockers with hd shafts.
The 214/214 has the aggressive comp xfi lobes and requires a stiff spring, 500lbs open, short travel lifters, and adjustable rockers.
 
And i can tell you this, you will make less power with the aggressive 214 cam and the wrong springs than you would with a milder cam set up right, so dont get talked into wimpy springs on an aggressive cam. I would go 210/215. The 1201 springs are a drop in with stock retainers. The 214 requires a 1203 spring that has its own retainers and will require some work on the guides to fit.
 
The cam doesn't matter much at all. The open/close do matter. You are likely lift and ramp limited by the installed height. You are chasing after hundredths when a converter could given a few tenths!


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The cam doesn't matter much at all. The open/close do matter. You are likely lift and ramp limited by the installed height. You are chasing after hundredths when a converter could given a few tenths!


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I was talking to someone about converters and they had mentioned that if I want to get the right converter, I am going to need to see what kind of power my car is making and most likely put the car on the dyno before I pick a converter. Thoughts?
 
I was talking to someone about converters and they had mentioned that if I want to get the right converter, I am going to need to see what kind of power my car is making and most likely put the car on the dyno before I pick a converter. Thoughts?
You should know what kind of power you want to make and the converter can be selected based on it. A dyno won't help much with converter selection. I've seen plenty of cars put down spectacular dyno numbers and couldn't come close to reproducing the potential on a drag strip.


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You should know what kind of power you want to make and the converter can be selected based on it. A dyno won't help much with converter selection. I've seen plenty of cars put down spectacular dyno numbers and couldn't come close to reproducing the potential on a drag strip.


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Is a half second window of time on an ET really useful information? I have an idea what kind of power the car will make within maybe 100hp, but other than that, being that this is my first go around with these engines, I don't know what to expect other than what other members have told me, and those numbers varied greatly.
 
Yup, see that all the time at car shows. Mustang guys with the 700+ hp dyno charts running low 11s.
 
That is typical of late model dyno queens. Shops have generous dynos, douchebag owners cant drive. There are atleast 20 supercharged mustangs at our local cruise in, all with big claims, few have been down the track, the ones that have tun 11s. I dont know what is louder, the cars driving to yhe show in 1st gear the whole way, or the owners mouths talking about how fast they are.
 
I would keep the current cam you are running and spend the money elsewhere. Maybe use it towards some TA or GN1 aluminum heads.


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I would keep the current cam you are running and spend the money elsewhere. Maybe use it towards some TA or GN1 aluminum heads.


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$1800+ is a lot to spend. I haven't researched the topic yet, but I'm not a huge fan of aluminum heads due to how brittle they can be and their heat retention properties. I'm going to have to read up on it, but I was planning on using my ported irons unless there is an astronomical benefit to moving to an aluminum head other than they may flow a bit better.
 
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I think your research will determine that aluminum is not brittle, and they have heat shedding properties as compared to cast iron.
I've had a couple experiences with heads from a company called AFR cracking. I'm just going off of my own business experience. Again, I will read up on it.
 
Aluminum heads will make more power on less boost, but boost is just a number, and on e85, boost isnt an issue. I would be building a 9.5:1 compression engine.
 
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