stepson has a mudstain and the previous owner ran royal purple in it. wanted to ask some of you gearheads if you know of a safe alternative to running some type of synthetic or something that isn't so expensive. he's a student and needing to do an oil change and i didn't know the answer so please help. he's away at college and trying to help him even though he's 300 miles away. we'd like a safe alternative and he's 19 so he runs the car hard at times i'm sure so any opinions and all are apppreciated.
safe alternative to royal purple
- Thread starter datant69
- Start date
I just starting using this,BradPenn Oil on my new motor, from what ive read its pretty good stuff and already has zinc in it. Only thing is you might have to email them for a local distributor, mines only sells the stuff by the case(12) which ended up costing me $48, which is a little less then i was spending on 5.5 quarts of Mobil1.
bs.
what's BS
the info on not being able to use anything other then royal purple after using it? i don't know much about the stuff other then it's pricey and suppose to be good. hell for the price you pay it should lube the whole freaking car. i'll look up brad penn but i think he said he changed it but for future referance what is a good oil to use that isn't pricey for a student.
the info on not being able to use anything other then royal purple after using it? i don't know much about the stuff other then it's pricey and suppose to be good. hell for the price you pay it should lube the whole freaking car. i'll look up brad penn but i think he said he changed it but for future referance what is a good oil to use that isn't pricey for a student.
that is complete nonsense-------i could write a book on just how untrue that is and back it up with enough lab data that it would probably have as many pages as War and Peace-------but its not worth the trouble------take a little time and give this some thought and if common sense doesn't prevail have someone that believes this BS give you an explanation why------let me know what they give as a reason and i will tear it to shreads with pure logic, results of industry standardized tests, and years of tribology science.............RC
thanks
i didn't think it mattered as long as you ran some decent oil in it. car has roughly 82K on it. when we bought it the original owner stated you can't go from it and it was pounded into my stepsons head that you can only run RP. i appreciate all you guys input on this and he's going to change the oil i sent him a link to this so he'll see he has no worries. i'm sure a good synthetic would be fine.
i didn't think it mattered as long as you ran some decent oil in it. car has roughly 82K on it. when we bought it the original owner stated you can't go from it and it was pounded into my stepsons head that you can only run RP. i appreciate all you guys input on this and he's going to change the oil i sent him a link to this so he'll see he has no worries. i'm sure a good synthetic would be fine.
jburnsinnj
Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2006
Try this oil solution...
I had been using Sunoco 10-30w in my GN since I bought it new. I had won 6 cases of it at the track in the late 80's and just recently ran out of it. It met all the specs for the GN oil requirements.
So I did a lot of reading regarding the different oil solutions available for older flat tappet cam's that are available today. While there are some pricey products on the market that contain healthy doses of ZDDP I wanted something that would not eat up the cat converter and also get me through the tough New jersey emissions testing.
I settled on Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil (they make a street legal and also a track only version, so choose wisely) The race oil is available in 10-30w and 20-50w and a straight 30w, 40w,50w and 60w and is available in "dino" only.
Valvoline VR-1 contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oils with a balanced additive package designed to work in both street-legal and racing applications. It also "contains longer lasting Zinc-Phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine against wear instead of poisoning the catalytic converter and is the only brand of oil offering this unique additive across the entire line of oils including their SYNPOWER, the only synthetic offering this additive.
The Valvoline VR-1 Race Oil offers .13% Zinc and .12% Phosphorus while the Valvoline "not street legal" race oil has .14% Zinc and .13 % Phosphorus
For further info search Valvoline 's web site and go to product information ,race oil,and FAQ's .
I had been using Sunoco 10-30w in my GN since I bought it new. I had won 6 cases of it at the track in the late 80's and just recently ran out of it. It met all the specs for the GN oil requirements.
So I did a lot of reading regarding the different oil solutions available for older flat tappet cam's that are available today. While there are some pricey products on the market that contain healthy doses of ZDDP I wanted something that would not eat up the cat converter and also get me through the tough New jersey emissions testing.
I settled on Valvoline VR-1 Racing Motor Oil (they make a street legal and also a track only version, so choose wisely) The race oil is available in 10-30w and 20-50w and a straight 30w, 40w,50w and 60w and is available in "dino" only.
Valvoline VR-1 contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oils with a balanced additive package designed to work in both street-legal and racing applications. It also "contains longer lasting Zinc-Phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine against wear instead of poisoning the catalytic converter and is the only brand of oil offering this unique additive across the entire line of oils including their SYNPOWER, the only synthetic offering this additive.
The Valvoline VR-1 Race Oil offers .13% Zinc and .12% Phosphorus while the Valvoline "not street legal" race oil has .14% Zinc and .13 % Phosphorus
For further info search Valvoline 's web site and go to product information ,race oil,and FAQ's .
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
I just did an oil change on my car and I went with "RP full synthetic" 10w40 for the first time ever and I’ll tell you this "I would never ever buy or (if free) put RP in my engine again
. It was SO thin that the engine sounded like a diesel.
If it wasn't because i paid $9.00 a quart for six quarts and the bottle of ZDDPlus was already in it I would have drained the oil and put something else in it.
. It was SO thin that the engine sounded like a diesel.If it wasn't because i paid $9.00 a quart
for six quarts and the bottle of ZDDPlus was already in it I would have drained the oil and put something else in it.oil
I have been using SAE 30 with a half a bottle of Comp Cams break in formula.
I have a roller.... Runs great and you can't even hear those Morel Lifters.
Quieter than stock
You can buy a gallon of SAE 30 for $9.99 at Advance now. I get the Comp Cams additive for 12 bucks and use it twice. Then top off with more SAE 30.
Works for me.
I have been using SAE 30 with a half a bottle of Comp Cams break in formula.
I have a roller.... Runs great and you can't even hear those Morel Lifters.
Quieter than stock
You can buy a gallon of SAE 30 for $9.99 at Advance now. I get the Comp Cams additive for 12 bucks and use it twice. Then top off with more SAE 30.
Works for me.
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