Runs like garbage, bad ESC??

dnthmn87

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2010
My main question is if bare wires coming out of the knock sensor could that fry the knock sensor? Or is there just a fuse I need to check?? Car runs like crap, slower than slow, seems like it has a misfire or something. Code 43 aka ESC is on.
I'll go at in the morning when I can see what I'm doing, my driveway isn't well lit.

More details:
Just took front cover on and off 2 times, car is back together and running, but doesn't run like it did before pulling the front cover. So I Changed plugs and wires, fixed all vacuum leaks, and it does have fresh gas, and a new crank sensor etc. But nothing so far has helped it run better
At idle it seems as if it has a misfire or something, not smooth. When I try to accelerate, sounds and feels like i'm running on 4 cylinders or less, its really a dog, can't really build more than a few pounds of boost unless I stay in it for like ten seconds.
Its thowing code 43 which from what I understand points to Electronic Spark control and could be the knock sensor, ECM, ESC, or a bad connection or something.
I noticed today that the knock sensor beeped once when I put the car into gear always has done this) and once when I gave it 3/4 thottle long enough to hit 10lbs of boost.
I was meaning to test my coil pack and tps voltage tomorrow in the daylight, but decided to read up on code 43 first, saw that it deals with the knock sensor, and went out and saw the bare wires, they weren't touching, but could've at one point.
 
Very interested I this as well , just took my car apart to put in injectors and it is running the same . I found a shorted wire from my alternator to the harness where the injector and ccci plugs come out of. But I fixed the wire and nothing changed.
 
Do you have a scanmaster or powerlogger?

Sounds like you got some plug wires crossed..... if it is rich idling.... it doesn't take long to foul a plug either. What heads and what plugs?
 
Do you have a scanmaster or powerlogger?

Sounds like you got some plug wires crossed..... if it is rich idling.... it doesn't take long to foul a plug either. What heads and what plugs?
Changing the plugs and wires was in an effort to fix the problem, it ran the exact same before changing em. Just some bosch wires, and AC Delco 44 somethin or another plugs, I'll check that first thing in the morning and post it. Stock heads. No scanmaster or powerlogger... I wish i did tho
 
You had the front cover off... Are you sure the cam sensor is set right?? You said car doesn't run like it did before pulling the front cover...Wondering why you are throwing new parts at the car unrelated to the front cover....Another thing is the crank sensor did you check to ensure it was set properly???
 
Need to fix the code 43 error first. When it is active the ECM pulls a lot of spark advance out. Code 43 is set when the ECM sees run-away knock counts. This can be caused by a bad knock sensor, or the wire to the sensor rubbing through the insulation. A bad blower fan motor (HVAC) can also cause false knock.

If the ESC filter (knock module) is unplugged, or the +12 volts to it is open, that will cause run-away knock.

At the ESC filter connector, pin B is +12 volts. Can measure for that between pin B and pin D (ground). Can do this with it unplugged from the ESC filter, and just do a key-on, engine-off.

With the connector plugged into the ESC filter, pin C is the signal to the ECM. Should be about 9 volts with no knock, and close to ground with knock present.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
You had the front cover off... Are you sure the cam sensor is set right?? You said car doesn't run like it did before pulling the front cover...Wondering why you are throwing new parts at the car unrelated to the front cover....Another thing is the crank sensor did you check to ensure it was set properly???
Crank sensor broke while changing front cover, just thought I should mention that it is new to rule it out. I should probably reword my original post
And my new plugs at AC delco R44TS
 
Need to fix the code 43 error first. When it is active the ECM pulls a lot of spark advance out. Code 43 is set when the ECM sees run-away knock counts. This can be caused by a bad knock sensor, or the wire to the sensor rubbing through the insulation. A bad blower fan motor (HVAC) can also cause false knock.

If the ESC filter (knock module) is unplugged, or the +12 volts to it is open, that will cause run-away knock.

At the ESC filter connector, pin B is +12 volts. Can measure for that between pin B and pin D (ground). Can do this with it unplugged from the ESC filter, and just do a key-on, engine-off.

With the connector plugged into the ESC filter, pin C is the signal to the ECM. Should be about 9 volts with no knock, and close to ground with knock present.

RemoveBeforeFlight
With the key on, I got 12.09 volts between pin B and pin D on the ESC filter connector. Tried it three different times turning key off and on as I tried it each time, 12.09ish volts every time.
I also noticed a fan that stays on as long as the key is on just to the left of where the relay/ESC/MAP assy is. I'm assuming thats the HVAC fan, should that be on all the time that the key is on, engine not running?
 
Went out and re-checked the spark plug wires, firing order is correct.
Also started to check the sparks for being fouled, and the 3 spark plugs that I was able check before it started raining all looked good, starting to turn brown, not fouled.
 
Just tried checking the coil packs. I turned my old multimeter to the ohms symbol that looks like headphones(I'm not experienced with the voltmeter) and the other dial looks like it just changes where the decimal is and I had it pointed to 200.... Thats the only one that showed numbers during the test.
The readings starting from the passenger side were 10.6, 24.0, 73.5 was the driver side. I'm not sure if I did that resistance check correctly....?? Unless those numbers are really supposed to be 10,600, 24,000, and 73,500.....?? o_O Should be between 11,000 and under 13,000ish??? teach me. For the test i'm supposed to check the plug terminals just opposite of each other from what I understand.
 
With the key on, I got 12.09 volts between pin B and pin D on the ESC filter connector. Tried it three different times turning key off and on as I tried it each time, 12.09ish volts every time.
I also noticed a fan that stays on as long as the key is on just to the left of where the relay/ESC/MAP assy is. I'm assuming thats the HVAC fan, should that be on all the time that the key is on, engine not running?

Did you check pin C with the connector plugged into the ESC module and key-on, engine-off? Since there is power and ground to the module, it may be that the module is bad.

The HVAC blower was likely running. I don't recall if it always runs even with the fan switch in the lowest or off position.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
make SURE YOUR CAM SENSOR is SET CORRECTLY mine had the same symtoms as yours come to find out the cam sensor was 180 out!
 
I think I ruined the coil a while back and that its the problem. At one point while pulling off a spark plug wire, it left the metal connector on the plug, and instead of stopping everything and crimping that properly, I finished what I was doing and never got that back to crimping that wire. And I tried running it a time or two like that before crimping the wire.
So from what i've heard, having a bad wire that can't ground through the plug, will arc the coil and ruin it. I've got an AC delco coil on the way, hopefully thats it. If not i'll double check my cam sensor setting, and try an ESC module. Do the regular parts stores carry those?? Any way to test the ESC module itself?
 
i work for advance and all i can say is heck no on the cam sensor but on the esc module i think we do carry it
 
Just tried a brand new AC delco coil pack from Nos4GN, runs the same. I tried resetting the cam sensor, at the opposite TDC, car started but ran worse, same basic symptoms tho. Put it back how it was, still running rough, like a couple missfires going on, no power at all, feels like maybe 3 or 4 cylinders are runnin.
If we've double checked plugs, wires, coil pack, cam sensor setting, and power to the ESC, should we assume its the ESC module itself at this point? Anything else I should check before assuming thats it? And where should I get an ESC module if needed???
Keep in mind that its throwing code 43.
 
Is the crank sensor adjusted properly? Make sure all 3 blades on the reluctor wheel clear the sensor with no rubbing.
 
Is the crank sensor adjusted properly? Make sure all 3 blades on the reluctor wheel clear the sensor with no rubbing.
I was pretty sure that it was clear when I put the new crank sensor on. I could fit a piece of a pop bottle on both sides for each blade.
 
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