Rough start, boost loss, scanmaster. Possible pcm problem, right turn signal on dash stays on

[chrisgn6]

My first 86 gn. Was fast when I first purchased it. Started seeing boost loss. Wot I get 10 psi and then it feels like it just lags and redline. Installed remanufactured turbo, hp wastegate, accel coil pack, msd 8mm wires and acdelco plugs and fuel filter and oil. Coil pack and plugs were done about 5 months ago. Turbo and wastegate was last week.

After turbo install I started getting very bad start ups. Have to crank maybe 4 times to get my goodnight to start.


When trying to read codes with obd1 it doesn't read at all. NOTHING! I have a scanmaster but it's not reading 90% of the time. It won't stay on long enough for me to record any readings. POSSIBLE PCM PROBLEM?

Changed a dash bulb a couple months back and I noticed when I turn on my headlights the right turn stays solid but blinks when turn signal applied. Installed new light switch still same problem.


SORRY THIS MY FIRST GN AND IM LEARNING AND OPEN TO LEARNING.

Any help is appreciated!!

 

[bison]

Sounds like you have some wiring problems. Id check over ever thing that was recently worked on and id check for fuel and spark while cranking. It's possible your wastegate solenoid is malfunctioning and not bleeding which results in about 10psi of boost with the stock configuration


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[chrisgn6]

Sounds like you have some wiring problems. Id check over ever thing that was recently worked on and id check for fuel and spark while cranking. It's possible your wastegate solenoid is malfunctioning and not bleeding which results in about 10psi of boost with the stock configuration


BPE2013@hotmail.com

Is there anywhere I can download a schematics? Also I unplugged the wastegate solenoid to see if that would help but still the same results. Was that the correct thing to do. I was thinking either replacing my ignition module and checking my spark plug gap. If I can recall I think they are gapped at 35 or 40.

 

[SHADOWII]

First let me welcome you to the board! Welcome Pilgrim, if I haven't done so already. Second as a noobie, your first response should have been to come to the board and asked questions and sought answers. You may have compounded the problem by throwing parts at it.(We all are probably guilty of this on some scale in our haste to fix problems.) It might just be a cracked driver's side header, between cylinders #3 & 5. If the shield is still on the header, you will have to remove it to check for the crack. Depending on the size of the crack, it can limit the boost from 6-12#s. My personal experience showed 10#s and dropped to 8#s before I discovered the problem w/the aid of these board members.
If you don't have the aftermarket chip like a TT, in colder weather , the 86 was famous for extended cranking. Which may account for your cranking problem. The sparkplug/gap becomes more important when you start to raise boost, i.e. 21#s to 28#+. Then you may find you have to close the gap as low as .023" These things you will learn as you go along your learning curve. Try not to move too fast or you may start to overlook the obvious, resulting in frustration w/your tr and wasted $$$$.We are all here to help, w/guys like Bison at the top of the curve and the rest of us some where between noobies and them! Hope this helps, again, Welcome!!!

 

[bison]

After re-checking everything that was recently done including the 3 wires on the scanmaster Id check the ECM solenoid fuse. If unhooking the solenoid connector from the solenoid you should have triggered an SES malfunction code 31 if you have had over 2 sec of WOT with it unhooked. This assuming you have a stock chip. It's possible you damaged one or more of the spark plugs or wires on install and are having misfires. The gap won't matter much on cranking and low load. I would verify no spark/weak spark while cranking or no fuel before I started throwing parts at it


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[chrisgn6]

First let me welcome you to the board! Welcome Pilgrim, if I haven't done so already. Second as a noobie, your first response should have been to come to the board and asked questions and sought answers. You may have compounded the problem by throwing parts at it.(We all are probably guilty of this on some scale in our haste to fix problems.) It might just be a cracked driver's side header, between cylinders #3 & 5. If the shield is still on the header, you will have to remove it to check for the crack. Depending on the size of the crack, it can limit the boost from 6-12#s. My personal experience showed 10#s and dropped to 8#s before I discovered the problem w/the aid of these board members.
If you don't have the aftermarket chip like a TT, in colder weather , the 86 was famous for extended cranking. Which may account for your cranking problem. The sparkplug/gap becomes more important when you start to raise boost, i.e. 21#s to 28#+. Then you may find you have to close the gap as low as .023" These things you will learn as you go along your learning curve. Try not to move too fast or you may start to overlook the obvious, resulting in frustration w/your tr and wasted $$$$.We are all here to help, w/guys like Bison at the top of the curve and the rest of us some where between noobies and them! Hope this helps, again, Welcome!!!

First let me welcome you to the board! Welcome Pilgrim, if I haven't done so already. Second as a noobie, your first response should have been to come to the board and asked questions and sought answers. You may have compounded the problem by throwing parts at it.(We all are probably guilty of this on some scale in our haste to fix problems.) It might just be a cracked driver's side header, between cylinders #3 & 5. If the shield is still on the header, you will have to remove it to check for the crack. Depending on the size of the crack, it can limit the boost from 6-12#s. My personal experience showed 10#s and dropped to 8#s before I discovered the problem w/the aid of these board members.
If you don't have the aftermarket chip like a TT, in colder weather , the 86 was famous for extended cranking. Which may account for your cranking problem. The sparkplug/gap becomes more important when you start to raise boost, i.e. 21#s to 28#+. Then you may find you have to close the gap as low as .023" These things you will learn as you go along your learning curve. Try not to move too fast or you may start to overlook the obvious, resulting in frustration w/your tr and wasted $$$$.We are all here to help, w/guys like Bison at the top of the curve and the rest of us some where between noobies and them! Hope this helps, again, Welcome!!!

Thanks. I'm in Washington state and we been having a lot of rain here which is normal so I haven't been outside to diagnose any problems. I will be sure to let you guys know what's going on for further info.

 

[chrisgn6]

After re-checking everything that was recently done including the 3 wires on the scanmaster Id check the ECM solenoid fuse. If unhooking the solenoid connector from the solenoid you should have triggered an SES malfunction code 31 if you have had over 2 sec of WOT with it unhooked. This assuming you have a stock chip. It's possible you damaged one or more of the spark plugs or wires on install and are having misfires. The gap won't matter much on cranking and low load. I would verify no spark/weak spark while cranking or no fuel before I started throwing parts at it


BPE2013@hotmail.com

I will check that. It did also trigger that code.

 

[bison]

I will check that. It did also trigger that code.

If it triggered the code then at least you know the ecu is commanding it. Look for incorrectly configured wastegate hoses and or a failed solenoid. The lines connected to the solenoid, turbo, and gate do have a definite correct location. The "Y" is orificed to delay the signal and improve boost response. The solenoid is pulse width modulated and bleeds pressure from that circuit to reduce the opening pressure available at the diaphragm and the result is higher boost pressures


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[chrisgn6]

First let me welcome you to the board! Welcome Pilgrim, if I haven't done so already. Second as a noobie, your first response should have been to come to the board and asked questions and sought answers. You may have compounded the problem by throwing parts at it.(We all are probably guilty of this on some scale in our haste to fix problems.) It might just be a cracked driver's side header, between cylinders #3 & 5. If the shield is still on the header, you will have to remove it to check for the crack. Depending on the size of the crack, it can limit the boost from 6-12#s. My personal experience showed 10#s and dropped to 8#s before I discovered the problem w/the aid of these board members.
If you don't have the aftermarket chip like a TT, in colder weather , the 86 was famous for extended cranking. Which may account for your cranking problem. The sparkplug/gap becomes more important when you start to raise boost, i.e. 21#s to 28#+. Then you may find you have to close the gap as low as .023" These things you will learn as you go along your learning curve. Try not to move too fast or you may start to overlook the obvious, resulting in frustration w/your tr and wasted $$$$.We are all here to help, w/guys like Bison at the top of the curve and the rest of us some where between noobies and them! Hope this helps, again, Welcome!!!

While cranking I had about 5-6 psi of furel pressure and then about 26-28 while running. This is all after I let the car warm up.

While cranking I had spark at all 6 and the light on my tester was a lil more dim on others. For the header are you telling me to pull the valve cover of and check for a crack?

 

[Nascar83Fan]

He is saying that the headers may have these heat shields on them that you might have to pull off to inspect for cracks in the headers.
Driver side heat shield that use to be on before it came loose and pulled it off years ago but was thrown in the trunk to hang onto it.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[chrisgn6]

He is saying that the headers may have these heat shields on them that you might have to pull off to inspect for cracks in the headers.
Driver side heat shield that use to be on before it came loose and pulled it off years ago but was thrown in the trunk to hang onto it.
View attachment 239622

View attachment 239623

View attachment 239624


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Thanks! I see they have a lil weld on them. How did you get yours off

 

[chrisgn6]

After re-checking everything that was recently done including the 3 wires on the scanmaster Id check the ECM solenoid fuse. If unhooking the solenoid connector from the solenoid you should have triggered an SES malfunction code 31 if you have had over 2 sec of WOT with it unhooked. This assuming you have a stock chip. It's possible you damaged one or more of the spark plugs or wires on install and are having misfires. The gap won't matter much on cranking and low load. I would verify no spark/weak spark while cranking or no fuel before I started throwing parts at it


BPE2013@hotmail.com

Dude checked out good. Even tho I disconnected the harness from the wastegate solenoid, I thought it would have had uncontrolled boost since the ecm not controlling it? Or once I got the 31 code would that make it not boost up also.

 

[bison]

Dude checked out good. Even tho I disconnected the harness from the wastegate solenoid, I thought it would have had uncontrolled boost since the ecm not controlling it? Or once I got the 31 code would that make it not boost up also.

The ECM bleeds pressure that would otherwise push on the diaphragm and decrease boost. The ECM increases boost mechanically by cycling the solenoid. No bleed then the full pressure is sent to the actuator and lower boost occurs.
So the scanmaster doesn't work and you verified 12v, ground, and signal?


BPE2013@hotmail.com

 

[chrisgn6]

The ECM bleeds pressure that would otherwise push on the diaphragm and decrease boost. The ECM increases boost mechanically by cycling the solenoid. No bleed then the full pressure is sent to the actuator and lower boost occurs.
So the scanmaster doesn't work and you verified 12v, ground, and signal?


BPE2013@hotmail.com

Yes has 12 volt and good ground. It comes on every now and then and I can cycle through about once and then it goes blank and sometimes it just shows the 2.1 version of the SM. Even if I connect my obd1 I get nothing. Tried a couple different scanners.

 

[Nascar83Fan]

The passenger side one had came off or was pulled off before i even had the car, the driver side header heat shield started to come loose and rattled so i just grabbed it & pulled it the rest of the way off about 3 years or so ago. Held onto it with hopes of one day slapping it back on and figure out how to get ahold of a passenger side header heat shield one day. Not sure how much of a difference they did or didn't make for underhood temps etc.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[machinegun]

Based on the info you supplied I would look at the body and engine grounds. When you see lights glowing with out reason and intermittent issues like this it is usually a body or engine ground. Go through all grounds and clean, reattach or replace ends clean reattach as necessary

 

[chrisgn6]

The passenger side one had came off or was pulled off before i even had the car, the driver side header heat shield started to come loose and rattled so i just grabbed it & pulled it the rest of the way off about 3 years or so ago. Held onto it with hopes of one day slapping it back on and figure out how to get ahold of a passenger side header heat shield one day. Not sure how much of a difference they did or didn't make for underhood temps etc.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

Thanks for your replay

 

[chrisgn6]

Based on the info you supplied I would look at the body and engine grounds. When you see lights glowing with out reason and intermittent issues like this it is usually a body or engine ground. Go through all grounds and clean, reattach or replace ends clean reattach as necessary

Thanks I will definitely dothat

 

[chrisgn6]

Sorry for the late response, life put a stop on everything. Back to learning and reading up on TR's. I repaired the drivers side header as bison told me to do. THANKS A MILLION TIMES. Fixed my problem. Now to replace my old vacuum lines. Also got my scanmaster working. The problem was the low fan relay. THANKS GUYS. I love to read up on these cars and posts on here. I will admit that sometimes when I'm reading some of these post I get confused on what I should plan to do in my future upgrades. Some people will say something will work and some will say it don't. Kind of leaves me in that grey area. I just want to learn all I can. But I don't think their are too many people in the Seattle area.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Haven't read that the low fuel psi issue was corrected.....
How did the low fan relay fix the problem w/ the Scanmaster?