Rough running turbo buick

[Hacksaw]

Hmmm... I'm confused now... there should be no 'hole' to where you could spray anything 'into' the throttle body..

Right here, into the inlet:

We may need to check the base of the EGR for vacuum leaks:

http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/tuning.htm

I did the "knuckle rap" test of the MAF while idling. If it's bad it's supposed to stall. I know this won't find 100% of bad MAF's, but he tried another one without change as well.

 

[Burner]

Nice pic hacksaw how about this all have a extra turbo on the bench even though when I take the flex hose off turbo it spins free?Could it freeze up or slow down when R.P.M.s go up or would you hear something?

 

[bmackinnon]

Yea... I figured out where you were spraying the cleaner AFTER I realized you had pulled the uppipe off the tb... I wish someone else would chime in here and figure out what we may be missing... NEED GOOD SCANTOOL DATA!!:frown:

 

[Burner]

Took a short break to read and talk to TR guys.Removed Poston headers which were cracked on both sides.Replaced with stock repaired ones with Felpro gaskets.The headers that came off had copper gaskets but was told not to use them.Buddy said that this will help the hi BLM numbers.Can't believe this will cure the problem but at least it will sound better.Is there anything to check while the exhaust is out that may cause the rough running condition? Any feedback would be great thanks again!!

 

[bmackinnon]

Check the header flanges with a good straight-edge. If they are not REAL flat, have them machined flat. You shouldn't need any gaskets with the stock headers... they came from the factory without any header gaskets. If they are not flat, NO gasket will hold up and you'll be constantly plagued by header leaks, which WILL affect the blms due to air in-leakage affecting the O2 sensor output. It's quite possible that if you had bad leaks, this may solve or at least greatly diminish the problems you've been chasing... hopefully...

 

[Hacksaw]

I've been asking around, and 3 things come to mind:

1. Is the puck inside the bottom of the turbo seating? Some downpipes can mess that up.

2. The Wastegate actuator vacuum "can" may be bad.

3. The wastegate solenoid could be bad, not allowing boost.

 

[Burner]

Thanks for the info gents!!Will check the flanges and hopefully they are flat.The adj. rod from turbo to actuator is next.Pulling the rod by hand there is some tension but how do you know if it goes back all the way?Someone told me to get hand held brake bleeder/vaccum tool to check the actuator is this the way to go?Can the stock downpipe cause the turbo problem not to seat properly and how can I check for this?

 

[Burner]

Had to fix flanges on manifolds but installed and quiet!!Quick question I was told you could have good fuel pressure but low volume??Any feedback on this issue would be great,still running stock fuel pump and regulator.Car will get to speed but slow with no turbo.

 

[bmackinnon]

You can have good pressure, at idle, for example, and then when you are getting on it (demanding a large volume of fuel), if the pump is not capable of delivering the volume req'd, the pressure will fall off.... so.... if the pressure is going up and maintaining as you increase demand, the volume is adequate.... is the car running any smoother? Something must be hosed up with the wastegate actuator and/or puck if you can't build ANY boost....

 

[Burner]

Hey whats up?would you check the acuator by first pulling the rod and see if it springs back to its original position?I've done that and there is tension but not to where you have to pull it with both hands.Would you check the if the can is holding pressure by hooking a hand held brake bleeding/vaccum tool to one of the hoses from the y fitting also how would you check the puck?The car will start up as usual.The idle will go up for about ten seconds then will come down till the engine stalls.Start it again and it will do the same thing.You have to keep your foot on the gas almost like my chevelle without a choke.After the engine warms a little the car will idle by itself but rough.Take it for a ride around the block and up a slight grade to put a little more load on the car ther is no backfires or popping.the trans. will down shift most of the time going down the hill with no boost or power.Going to check the blms today to see if the numbers come down because of the exhaust fix.

 

[87buickracer]

running rough(rough idle)

Had similar problem once..used a scan tool to check intergrator,block learn and iac readings..It turned out to be a bad idle air control valve..(was sticking,)hope this helps...

 

[Burner]

Thanks Buick Racer about the iac valve info.When this firsrt happened put the otc on the car and the numbers seemed ok.It's been raining this weekend so could not work on it.Have read about the iac and how it can cause idle problems and will check the valve numbers again thanks again!!

 

[Burner]

Hey TR guys and gals.Tried taking the connection off the MAF and the car smoothed out for about a minute and then it slowly died.Then reconnected MAF connection and pulled the orange connection by the battery for a minute reconnected started and it ran rough again.the car slowly died like before.Hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and with the regultor hose off the pressure jumped to a little under 40lbs.Hooked the vaccum back to the regulator and the pressure went down to alittle under 30lbs.as I increased the RPM's the pressure dropped under 25lbs.!! The pressure never did this before so hopefully the fuel pump is going south.This is the first MAF that I bought so I heard you might have to go thru a few to get a good one.Fuel pump and MAF bad?The parts guys at the local parts store who sell rebuilt GM MAF's will probably get mad for hopefully not too many returns but I'm at the point oh well parts guys

 

[8UWITH6]

did you say this car had a stock fuel pump in it? If so, all this jacking around with the car is useless until you put a pump in it w/ a hotwire. This is the absolute 1st thing to do to any stocker turbo regal............

 

[Burner]

Went to put warlboro pump and find out you have to rig the wires just to hook power to the pump.in my opinion B.S.Owned a 1986 WH1 and never a problem with anything ever bought it with 75K miles sold it with 145K still driving with over 200K.Drive my Chevelles ten times harder than I would ever drive this I guess so called muscle car without anything close to this!!On that note have 1987 TR 62K miles all stock lite blue, blue guts bucket seat, console,dig dash power locks,windows.Car is in very good condition with lots of documentation.Asking 8500.00 or trade for 70SS running or not. HACKSAW has saw the car before.From what I was told rare color.

 

[8UWITH6]

*some* modification required.............................

 

[bmackinnon]

If you would have got the correct pump/hotwire kit from Racetronix or other vendors here, the harness would have been plug and play.... you DID hotwire the new pump, right???

 

[Burner]

Yes I do have the Racetronix and wish it was plug and play!The hotwire kit is probably but the connection like I said from the pump to the original harness is not.Went to the local parts store and the same thing they give you a pig tail type of adaptor so you still have to rig the connection to make it work.Just don't like messing with electrical connections that will be in a tank of gas.

 

[Burner]

Have you read this thirty step process to change the fuel pump??The best one is "Insert the supplied paper clip" and that is plug and play?C'mon if that is plug and play I need to go back to a Holley and a Vertex mag.

 

[bmackinnon]

Yes I do have the Racetronix and wish it was plug and play!The hotwire kit is probably but the connection like I said from the pump to the original harness is not.Went to the local parts store and the same thing they give you a pig tail type of adaptor so you still have to rig the connection to make it work.Just don't like messing with electrical connections that will be in a tank of gas.

Kinda' voids the purpose of upgrading the pump if you don't run a hotwire... it's considered a requirement for these cars... even 100% bone stock.. the voltage drop thru the factory fp harness is ridiculous... especially now that it's 25 yrs old... probably have about 11 volts at the rear connector... hotwire required...