Detomaso71
Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2010
I have had 5 TRs, 2 of them are GNX
I have one Hydroboost and love it but this car MUST stay original
I have not ever had a brake issues and I though I was a pretty decent mechanic until this last brake issue
My care was up over winter 3 months or so and when I pulled it out to drive it almost took out garage wall
the idle alone was enough to overpower my foot pedal and the pearl was very hard
I followed the bulletin and vendors advice and did the testing and replaced power ball accumulator, after replacing the fluid levels don't change at all and the pump runs continuous and I bleed the two from calipers
My problem is trying to do these two steps as I think I have air in pump or system?
1. Push "lever down" on the proportioning valve ( I don't see anything to push down)
its the old Iron one, yes if keep car would replace with brass but I want to figure out issue and fix before thawing tons of parts at it. there is a wire and cap on top of the valve but I can't push it down
2. "Bench Bleeding", not too familiar with this, could there be air in the pump? I was told so and bench bleed would fix
The big reason I don't think air in pump is the rear or power master (Passenger side) reservoir shoots brake fluid up when running but the level doesn't drop
So while pump is on which would run forever (It doesn't shut off) steady stream of fluid maybe 1 inch above rest of fluid like a fountain, no air bubbles
other issue is fuse if good but brake lights don't turn on by pedal, will check pedal assembly but is this related?
I have the light colored valve switch, new accumulator and original proportion valve
and I have changed all the brake fluid in car except rear drums DOT 3
Thx for any help!
I need to fix asap
I have one Hydroboost and love it but this car MUST stay original
I have not ever had a brake issues and I though I was a pretty decent mechanic until this last brake issue
My care was up over winter 3 months or so and when I pulled it out to drive it almost took out garage wall
the idle alone was enough to overpower my foot pedal and the pearl was very hard
I followed the bulletin and vendors advice and did the testing and replaced power ball accumulator, after replacing the fluid levels don't change at all and the pump runs continuous and I bleed the two from calipers
My problem is trying to do these two steps as I think I have air in pump or system?
1. Push "lever down" on the proportioning valve ( I don't see anything to push down)
its the old Iron one, yes if keep car would replace with brass but I want to figure out issue and fix before thawing tons of parts at it. there is a wire and cap on top of the valve but I can't push it down
2. "Bench Bleeding", not too familiar with this, could there be air in the pump? I was told so and bench bleed would fix
The big reason I don't think air in pump is the rear or power master (Passenger side) reservoir shoots brake fluid up when running but the level doesn't drop
So while pump is on which would run forever (It doesn't shut off) steady stream of fluid maybe 1 inch above rest of fluid like a fountain, no air bubbles
other issue is fuse if good but brake lights don't turn on by pedal, will check pedal assembly but is this related?
I have the light colored valve switch, new accumulator and original proportion valve
and I have changed all the brake fluid in car except rear drums DOT 3
Thx for any help!
I need to fix asap