Red Line Water Wetter

86 TR

Work In Progress
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Is there any advantage to running the water wetter with distilled water over regular antifreeze?? I see alot of people are running just distilled water with the redline additive or equivelant. I do know what will happen if you blow a HG with antifreeze. The milkshake effect.

But my question is if youre running pure water and blow a HG, will you still get the milkshake or not.

Reason I ask is Im driving my car to the track this friday night and Im concerned about popping a HG from a previous track incident in which I let a buddy drive the car and he left it in second gear and bounced off the rev limiter a couple times. This was at 24psi boost!!!!!!!! The cars been acting normal. The temp. is right where it always is. It hasn't blown yet but I don't know how long it will last. When my buddy ran it had 32 deg. of KR!!!:eek: Not too bad though he run a 12.30 @ 93 mph in second gear.:eek:
 
Redline water wetter will create a film inside the radiator that will lead to a clogged radiator over time. I used to run it for years, until I learned about RMI25, which btw is the best radiator additive you can get. It and straight distilled water is the best mixture I've ever tried in hot Mississippi weather back home.

Patrick
 
+1 for the RMI. Nick Micale turned me on to it several years back and have been running it since.
 
Redline water wetter will create a film inside the radiator that will lead to a clogged radiator over time. I used to run it for years, until I learned about RMI25, which btw is the best radiator additive you can get. It and straight distilled water is the best mixture I've ever tried in hot Mississippi weather back home......Patrick

Patrick's info is right on!:)

Before I found RMI-25 years ago and introduced it to the Buick community, I used WW when it was in powdered form and in the current liquid.

We find that WW does NOT have all the additives that RMI does and the cooling system will go corrosive. It actually disolves the solder in radiators.:mad:

Brent, I know other products are out there, but with over 30 years of proven success with RMI, it is still the best. No other cooling system additive can clean the system when in use like RMI, and it does this for about $5 a treatment.:D

Have done MANY head gaskets jobs where to pan was filled with water/RMI. After a complete flush and cleaning of the engine internals, they are still running after 1000's of miles.:cool:
 
When I've used pure distilled water + RMI25, it's left a scummy brown film inside the overflow tank, and radiator internals.

The film was so skanky looking, I replaced my overflow reservoir, just for cosmetics.

If that's an "indication that it's working", then I am dubious ... a film would inhibit heat transfer, not improve it. I don't fully understand what's going on with the water chemistry.

However, water + RMI25 + Antifreeze (20%-50%) leaves no residue.

On my daily driver chevy SUV, 50-50 antifreeze + RMI25 seems to keep things cleaner-looking, than just antifreeze alone used to. So I do add RMI25, but only if I'm also using some antifreeze.
 
When I've used pure distilled water + RMI25, it's left a scummy brown film inside the overflow tank, and radiator internals.

The film was so skanky looking, I replaced my overflow reservoir, just for cosmetics.

If that's an "indication that it's working", then I am dubious ... a film would inhibit heat transfer, not improve it. I don't fully understand what's going on with the water chemistry.

However, water + RMI25 + Antifreeze (20%-50%) leaves no residue.

On my daily driver chevy SUV, 50-50 antifreeze + RMI25 seems to keep things cleaner-looking, than just antifreeze alone used to. So I do add RMI25, but only if I'm also using some antifreeze.


That brown scum is the crud from inside your block, heater core, rad and elsewhere in the cooling system. The RMI is doing its job, it is keeping the crud in suspension!

The antifreeze hinders the cleaning process, and also will run hotter than just water and RMI.

This is why on the web site, we say to flush the system soon after adding RMI for the first time. Maybe a second time if the system has lots of crud because the RMI can only keep so much crud in suspension before it needs to be replaced.

We have GN's with radiators 10-15 years on RMI and they are still shiney inside!:biggrin:
 
That brown scum is the crud from inside your block, heater core, rad and elsewhere in the cooling system. ...

..., we say to flush the system soon after adding RMI for the first time. Maybe a second time if the system has lots of crud because the RMI can only keep so much crud in suspension before it needs to be replaced.
Nick,

yes, I recall reading that.

My first experience with RMI was on my daily driver SUV ... a flush didn't really do much to dislodge the film , that I could see inside the radiator neck.

And spraying water from a hose inside the overflow tank , didnt rinse away the brown film.

Shortly thereafter, I ended up replacing the radiator (plastic side tank cracked), as the rad was already about 10 yrs old.

Since then I've been gun-shy and just use 50-50 plus the RMI.

I know many run just water + RMI and are happy with it ... I don't have a good explanation for my experiences, but I'm OK with 50-50 +RMI in my SUV, even if it's not the "most optimal" for heat transfer.

My cooling system remains fairly clean looking, and my SUV's temps have stayed normal (190-200º) for a couple years.
 
Where do I find rmi-25 on a buick vendors site? I went to arizonagn.com, and found pretty much nothing... like 4 or 5 parts, and some pictures. Anyone?
 
Thanks for the info on the Red Line WW. I've used it before with 50/50 tap water & coolant.

Shortly thereafter, I ended up replacing the radiator (plastic side tank cracked)

My '94 Olds Achieva just cracked the plastic side tank on the radiator, not at the seam, so new radiator time. I know the feeling. :mad:

I was going to put Red Line WW in it until I saw this.

Distilled water may be too acidic, often a pH of ~6.0, neutral is around 7.5. pH is also part of the corrosion issue.

But my question is if you're running pure water and blow a HG, will you still get the milkshake or not.

There should still be the "milkshake" look, but there won't be the ethylene glycol messing with things. But, water isn't too good for engine oil, either. :eek:

I would pull the heads, get them checked & decked, etc., & re-gasket it if you are concerned.

That's a lot of boost & KR he had there!! :mad:
 
RMI-25 was removed from my site because it is no longer in production. :mad:

Not sure what is available as a replacement with all the protection it provides? I have never found a product that protects and CLEANS like RMI.

I personally will not use Waterwetter as it does not contain all the needed additives for proper cooling system protection. It becomes corrosive very quickly.
 
Nick steered me onto RMI-25 8 to 10 years ago and my CAS aluminum radiator still looks new inside. I do flush my system every other year and put new in but have NEVER had any problems with it what so ever. Car also runs the coolest with RMI-25 and Iv'e tried others. Got all my buddies here running it in there cars. Best out there as far as I'm concerned.:D
 
please tell me youre not gonna let your buddy behind the wheel of your buick ever again. if its gonna break, and we know they are. it should be you driving.:rolleyes:
 
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