Recurring Turbo Seal Problem

Joined
Nov 18, 2005
I've been chasing a smoking problem since I bought my car and now know what it was. I removed the turbo and it is obvious the seals are leaking on the exh side. Now, my problem is when I bought the car, the prev owner told me he had done the very same repair w/ the turbo vendor a short time prior. For this to happen again less than 1000 miles later, and 2x in a 2000 mile span makes me think my turbo has some other clearance type issue.

Has anyone had to chase a recurring seal problem like this, and what was the fix? I'm tempted to just start over from scratch.

Thanks,

EW
 
Most fittings and hoses are larger than is needed. Restrict the oil flow. Reduce the inlet to the turbo (oil Flow) doen to .080. This helped us. If your oil return line is too small or too long, this could result in the same problem(s).

Hope this helps you.
 
I was thinking about some sort of female/male restrictor I could put right at the end of the line before the turbo. I'll talk to the guys at Limit about it. If anyone knows where to procure such a thing, let me know.

Is this the same as a "turbo saver"?
 
you could...

probably make your own restricter as esp suggested as long as you have the
.080" bit. could try an inline brass needle valve to control the volume as well, just preset the volume and don't forget to tighten the collar nut so you don't accidently move it.

the turbo saver, is like an expansion tank, it stores oil under pressure while the engine is running and when the eng is turned off the saver delivers oil to the bearings for a set time to keep the bearings from coking.
 
Sorry....

I wasn't referring to the filter type, it was one I stumbled on a couple(?) years back I thought was interesting. He called it a "turo saver" also. Sorry for any confusion.:eek:
 
I remember a while back someone saying if your oil pressure is too high all the time it will cause problems with the turbo seals.
 
I used the -4 braided steel brake line type fittings with the steel ends and as I am typing this I do not recall where the restriction is :eek:
Anyway with the steel brake line type fittings and -4 line going into a standard Earls anodized aluminum 90* NTP to -4 AN on the turbo and the brass oil distribution block is just drilled and tapped NPT for the other end.

Well somewhere in the pathway is a hole, I believe it was either on the NPT to AN adapter on the turbo or the brass block, that had a hole that was the same size as the stock line (the smallest part) so I figured I would be good. So far so good but can measure the time in tanks of gas - maybe 5.
 
Does this apply to cold starts too? Because mine pegs the needle at 100psi.
during the cold weather.

Yes. That is why I always watch the oil pressure and make sure I do not get above 80 PSI at any time. My cold idle is around 70. and I run 5W30. I would like to run 0W30 but have not yet seen it on the shelves.

I saw a cold start pressure drop of around 5-10 PSI with the WIX filter. Not sure yet if that makes any sense :confused: ..... Sure there is less retriction but the stock brass block is after the filter, so, technically, the pressure reading should be higher.

Edit:
Of course, my gauge is not callibrated and I need to collect more data on temps. Cold here = 45F
I alos added an "old" magnetic block heater (from my former northern winter years) which I have installed on the oil pan. We'll see what that does.
 
Most fittings and hoses are larger than is needed. Restrict the oil flow. Reduce the inlet to the turbo (oil Flow) doen to .080. This helped us. If your oil return line is too small or too long, this could result in the same problem(s).

Hope this helps you.
I would'nt be so quick to restrict the oil to the turbo!! First thing, Do you have the STOCK oil feed line? If so, then I wouldn't recomend restricting it! Iv'e never heard of TA-60 turbo's needing to be restricted. A slightly bent shaft can ruin any new seal in no time at all.. I ran a TE-45a wich is bigger than a TA-60 with no problems what so ever! I had just at 80lbs oil pres at cold start up and at temp in drive at a stop it idled with 40-45lbs oil pres. Iv'e never had a problem with a turbo needing the oil feed line to be restricted. Only ONE TIME recently have I seen (bird) that had a issue with a PT-70GTQ that needed to be restricted but I think it was a larger than stock oil feed line he was running. I'm awaiting my PT-70GTQ turbo from Hartline performance and will see how it does. If it was me I would send the turbo to Limit Engineering to be looked at and re-done or call them and ask what they think. I would do ALOT of research before I went and restricted the oil feed line.
 
I would'nt be so quick to restrict the oil to the turbo!! First thing, Do you have the STOCK oil feed line? If so, then I wouldn't recomend restricting it! Iv'e never heard of TA-60 turbo's needing to be restricted. A slightly bent shaft can ruin any new seal in no time at all.. I ran a TE-45a wich is bigger than a TA-60 with no problems what so ever! I had just at 80lbs oil pres at cold start up and at temp in drive at a stop it idled with 40-45lbs oil pres. Iv'e never had a problem with a turbo needing the oil feed line to be restricted. Only ONE TIME recently have I seen (bird) that had a issue with a PT-70GTQ that needed to be restricted but I think it was a larger than stock oil feed line he was running. I'm awaiting my PT-70GTQ turbo from Hartline performance and will see how it does. If it was me I would send the turbo to Limit Engineering to be looked at and re-done or call them and ask what they think. I would do ALOT of research before I went and restricted the oil feed line.

I agree, I wasn't just going to charge in without doing a lot of homework first. This is the second time in less than 2000 miles, so either something is wrong with the shaft or the pressure is too high...either way I want it fixed.

Dumb question: how would I know what the stock oil feed line looks like? Mine is hard similar to a brake line, not braided. I'm assuming a larger line is less pressure, true?
 
I agree, I wasn't just going to charge in without doing a lot of homework first. This is the second time in less than 2000 miles, so either something is wrong with the shaft or the pressure is too high...either way I want it fixed.

Dumb question: how would I know what the stock oil feed line looks like? Mine is hard similar to a brake line, not braided. I'm assuming a larger line is less pressure, true?
It looks like the size of a trans cooler or brake line. I'm not sure on the pressure threory. seems to me in a pressurized system that the pressure might stay the same but you would have more volume. others might know more on that.. Scot w.
 
I think I have the same problem. Too much oil pressure blows out the seals. My cold start up pressure is above 100 psi also. After I had all the gasket leaks and everything sealed up great after the last rebuild...I created my own leak by too much oil pressure. I shimmed my oil pump to 0.002" clearance and that is probably what pushed me over the top considering I had very tight main bearing clearances after the rebuild.
 
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