Rear end removal...

[gpadilla1071]

Does anyone have a step by step removal procedures for rear end? I was looking at my car's and I want to take it down and do some comestic refurbishing to it. It has a lot of surface rust and would like to make it look a little descent. I never took one off and want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

German

 

[Roc87]

It's pretty simple, just undo the control arms at the axle. Hardest part is re-connecting the emergency brake lines, I think I used two vise grips, one on the metal housing & one to pull the inner wire, when I installed the 8.5" in the elky. If there is plenty of surface rust, soak the control arm bolts with some PB blaster for a few days before you start working.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Not to hijack but I too have considered removing the upper and lower contro, arms for an r&r. When I did my Chevelles I was told to "do one at a time"....however even with the car on jackstands and a floorjack supporting the rear, it was a pita to get the new control arms to line up in their holes, about as much as it was just getting the bolts out for the stockers....seems there's a lot of tension there....is there an easy way of doing this to get the holes to line up perfectly?

 

[TABuickMike]

Not to hijack but I too have considered removing the upper and lower contro, arms for an r&r. When I did my Chevelles I was told to "do one at a time"....however even with the car on jackstands and a floorjack supporting the rear, it was a pita to get the new control arms to line up in their holes, about as much as it was just getting the bolts out for the stockers....seems there's a lot of tension there....is there an easy way of doing this to get the holes to line up perfectly?

You just gotta rotate the top of the rear end a bit to get the holes to line up. What I did was took a long punch with a small tip (philips screw driver or anything else would probably work) and stuck it in the opposite side of the hole that the bolt would be going in. I then would push or pull (depending on the direction) the punch to "pry" the hole into alignment and then stick the bolt through while I had it held there. Then once the bolt was the majority of the way through, if it was tight I tapped it with a rubber hammer until it was all the way through. Its a little easier with two people, so you can kinda pry and hold the rear end in alignment and the helper can stick the bolt through, but otherwise I was able to do it myself in my Skylark.

 

[gpadilla1071]

It's pretty simple, just undo the control arms at the axle. Hardest part is re-connecting the emergency brake lines, I think I used two vise grips, one on the metal housing & one to pull the inner wire, when I installed the 8.5" in the elky. If there is plenty of surface rust, soak the control arm bolts with some PB blaster for a few days before you start working.

Thanks for the crash course. It seems very easy to do and I just wanted to make sure I didn't take anything else extra that doesn't need to come off...

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Break lug nuts free while car is still on the ground.

Jack up car and place jackstands under frame by the front of the lower control arms.

Remove wheels

Disconnect emergency brake cables

Disconnect brake lines, best place is at the junction tee, have some plugs handy so you don't drain your brake system! Rubber caps over end of brake lines.

Remove sway bar

Disconnect lower shock bolts

Remove upper control arm bolts

Remove lower control arm bolts

Lower rearend and pull out from under car ( you can lower the rear as far as you can first before pulling out the control arm bolts) Spring will more than likely stay attached to the rear, just yank em out once the pressure is off them.

THINK that covers it.

 

[turbo39151]

How much would you estimate that the rear end assembly weighs? I need to the same thing to one of mine and it looks kinda heavy...

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Doesn't matter! You need a floor jack to do this safely. Not cheapo one either. Something with a good size pad on it. Position the pad under the center section so the rear won't pivot forward and you are good to go.

 

[turbo39151]

It will matter when I want to take it off the jack and move it to a different spot to work on it...

 

[Roc87]

Wow Mark, those are excellent Step-by-step instructions!


turbo39151, you should be able to move it around by yourself, of course remove the drums to make it a little lighter. I had one loaded in the back of the elcamino and could load/unload it by myself, but it would be worth a 6 pack to get someone to help you so you don't get a hernia

 

[HOT ROD-GN]

Wow Mark, those are excellent Step-by-step instructions!


turbo39151, you should be able to move it around by yourself, of course remove the drums to make it a little lighter. I had one loaded in the back of the elcamino and could load/unload it by myself, but it would be worth a 6 pack to get someone to help you so you don't get a hernia

mark should know. he sleep under the car:biggrin::biggrin:that why under his car is so nice..:biggrin:

 

[Heg87t]

Don't forget to remove the driveshaft. :wink:

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Don't forget to remove the driveshaft. :wink:

Knew I forgot something! Big elastic band around the ujoint to keep the caps from falling off or electrical tape.

Moving it around can be a pain but no problem with the jack getting it to where you want to work. Think the biggest pain of the whole thing is bleeding the brakes when you put it back together.

And HOT ROD-GN under my car is pretty much how Buick made it! Staying in a garage all it's life helped. Course the Ford 9" has been prettied up and powder coat control arms and polished exhaust helps the wow factor.:biggrin:

 

[gpadilla1071]

I appreciate all the feedback. I'm going to print and wait until the rain stops so I can get on it right away. Thanks!!:smile: