Rattle at high rmp...is it detonation? is my motor pooched?

mikestertwo said:
If it's still running ok with no strange noises the engine is most likely ok. The stock pistons are pretty tough. If there is no erythematic noise from the bottom end your rod bearings are ok. Sounds like you were letting off of it as soon as you heard the noise. Most damage is done from prolong states of detonation. I'm sure your ok. Just stay out of it until you find out what you have and make the necessary adjustments to keep it out of detonation.
Click to expand...
here is another longer one.

 
You have a major exhaust leak at heads to manifolds. Look at passenger side in the video the #4 cylinder has soot all over the place. Fix that,your drivers manifold is probably cracked also. Fix those and recheck. Fix 1 issue at a time..dont try to build Rome in one whack

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
first of all all you guys have been a great help. love you guys on the forums.

yes the manifolds definitely need to be looked at. here are some things i am thinking that need to be done to get this thing tuned up assuming everything is stock. at this point i just want it running proper. anything else?

scanmaster
TPS - set
coil pack and wires
repair leaking exhaust manifolds
injectors and chip
FP regulator
Fuel pump (if one not already)
vacuum lines
valve springs (car has originals)
thermostat
Boost, knock gauges.
 
jshot said:
first of all all you guys have been a great help. love you guys on the forums.

yes the manifolds definitely need to be looked at. here are some things i am thinking that need to be done to get this thing tuned up assuming everything is stock. at this point i just want it running proper. anything else?

scanmaster
TPS - set
coil pack and wires
repair leaking exhaust manifolds
injectors and chip
FP regulator
Fuel pump (if one not already)
vacuum lines
valve springs (car has originals)
thermostat
Boost, knock gauges.
Click to expand...
Dude..... stop. Fix the exhaust leak dont spend a dime. Then drive the car and report back. NO NEED TO START DUMPING MONEY INTO THE CAR FOR A BUNCH OF UNNECESSARY ITEMS

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
williambavila said:
Dude..... stop. Fix the exhaust leak dont spend a dime. Then drive the car and report back. NO NEED TO START DUMPING MONEY INTO THE CAR FOR A BUNCH OF UNNECESSARY ITEMS

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
thanks for the slap in the face i needed that. ok i am heading out of town in a couple days for a week. i will pull them out and report back when the exhaust leaks are fixed.
 
williambavila said:
If you text me your address I'll send you a good walburo pump I just removed to go to a larger pump. 405-361-5362. You can have it free so you can use that money on something else.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
that would be amazing. i will text you.
 
i know the detonation was occuring now. what will the spark plugs look like?
 
Like William said get the exhaust leaks fixed first and report back but I wouldn't test drive it again under boost without some higher octane fuel. I assume your still running a cat so find some 104 unleaded for your test drive.

What fuel were you pumping in before?
 
fast86gn said:
Like William said get the exhaust leaks fixed first and report back but I wouldn't test drive it again under boost without some higher octane fuel. I assume your still running a cat so find some 104 unleaded for your test drive.

What fuel were you pumping in before?
Click to expand...
It is a stock car. i put 91 in. the highest pump gas i can get is 93. i need it to run on pump gas.
 
Always run the highest octane possible. Not that you wouldn't detonate on 93 too. You need a good tune of course.
Try the 104...
 
1st things first, I dont care what octain you put in a car you are loosing power and the car is not going to perform correctly until he fixes the exhaust leaks, I would also assume he has several vacuum leaks, once those are fixed I would set the TPS by using a volt meter or investing in a scanmaster, At that point changing the plugs to a stock replacement set of ac delco or autolight plugs gapped at about .024 and drive the car with some good fuel. At that point posting your findings would probably result in a better picture for us on the intraweb. Until those things are fixed you are 100% pissing in the wind.
 
williambavila said:
1st things first, I dont care what octain you put in a car you are loosing power and the car is not going to perform correctly until he fixes the exhaust leaks, I would also assume he has several vacuum leaks, once those are fixed I would set the TPS by using a volt meter or investing in a scanmaster, At that point changing the plugs to a stock replacement set of ac delco or autolight plugs gapped at about .024 and drive the car with some good fuel. At that point posting your findings would probably result in a better picture for us on the intraweb. Until those things are fixed you are 100% pissing in the wind.
Click to expand...
i second that. i'm behind you all the way William
 
Last edited:
williambavila said:
1st things first, I dont care what octain you put in a car you are loosing power and the car is not going to perform correctly until he fixes the exhaust leaks, I would also assume he has several vacuum leaks, once those are fixed I would set the TPS by using a volt meter or investing in a scanmaster, At that point changing the plugs to a stock replacement set of ac delco or autolight plugs gapped at about .024 and drive the car with some good fuel. At that point posting your findings would probably result in a better picture for us on the intraweb. Until those things are fixed you are 100% pissing in the wind.
Click to expand...


I 100% totally agree with you but when he does get those maintenance items fixed good octane is a must.

Good luck jshot
 
Yes, what William said is correct. Everything is out of whack with leaking headers. Even on a 100% bone stock car. Not only will the fueling be off, but the ECM is having a conniption fit trying to compensate with 33 year old computer tech. The only thing I can add is this. If you're going to spend your first dollar on any non maintenance or repair items/upgrades, spend the money on a Scanmaster first. Mount it on the dash with velcro so you can see it while driving. After you get the leaking headers issue fixed, then you can start tuning the car using the Scanmaster. And having it mounted on the dash in direct line of sight will help you keep from blowing it up when it starts detonating. 2nd purchase would a quality boost gauge mounted on the a-pillar. Autometer, VDO, AEM, etc, etc. Stay away from the cheap stuff. Also, you don't necessarily need a knock gauge. Especially if you have a Scanmaster and can get acclimated to monitoring it while testing. The audible knock speaker that Caspers sells works, but it and the gauge both need to be hard tapped into the ECM wiring harness. The Scanmaster simply has 3 wires (12v+, Ground and ALDL signal wire) and is not permanent. Your life will be so much easier learning how to tune with the Scanmaster first. Save the Powerlogger for later down the line when you get serious with the car. With the leaks fixed and a Scanmaster on it, you can simply take an idling video and click by click, show us what your readings are on the Scanmaster. When we have that info, along with knowing what chip is in it and what mods it has (if any) you will find everyone willing to help get you squared away. In the meantime, the Spring cleaning items are also a must as you progress, but the header leaks are your number 1 issue ATM. All of the Supporting Vendors on this site sell the Scanmaster, as well as other items you will want/need in the future. Definitely read all of the articles in these links. Doing so will quickly give you a heads up on what's in store, when proper tuning begins. And the two video links will give you a quick overview on the Scanmaster.

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/quickref.html

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/sensors.html

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html



http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/Scantool_Readings.htm

http://ihadav8.com/forum/VortexBuicks/TuningBasics.htm

Remember, we're all here to help and keep us posted.
P.S. Don't forget to pour in some ZDDPlus to the oil asap. Your cam will thank you for it.


-Patrick-
 
Last edited:
Ok guys. I wish I could be tackling these issues already. I am heading north with no cell or wifi. Will return in a week and will start tackling these issues. With all of these guides and help on the forums it should be very doable. Hats off to all and will report back when I start wrenching.

P.s. any objection to the scanmasterG ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
First time turbo 3.8 build
Replies
7
Views
634
THensley
T
B
Rebuild time
2
Replies
34
Views
1K
Reggie West
Reggie West
J
High RPM
Replies
6
Views
900
mblum
M
D
Found This In Oil Pan What Is It?????
Replies
2
Views
550
daredevil95
D
C
Need to replace timing chain... What is the best option?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
1KWIKSIX
1KWIKSIX
Top