Ram air hookup

Joined
Jan 6, 2013
How do I hook up a kenne bell ram air up like this and what filter do I need? I need a new maf pipe for a 3.5 ls I maf sensor what pipe is best and what adapters and filter may I need ?1st pic is what I have second is what I want. Thank you!


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You are sure you want to use the KB set up? I believe the newer systems are better w/less restriction. The TRcustoms or the tinman.
I can go out to the garage and look at my old KB catalog to see what filter he used, I think it was the 8 or 9" k&n filter. You have to replace the d/s air dam w/the kb one and run the hose up behind the head lights and thru the provided hole. If you haven't moved your canister to the frame, you will have to do that first. Then you can place the filter canister in place of the fuel canister. At this point you may be able to purchase a shorty system form trcustoms to complete the install. Just check w/Mark to make sure it will work, if you insist on using it.
 
I have the dam , elbow, and hose .. I love the look I don't like a open filter in engine compartment and I don't want filter under the shield behind the bumper this is my daily driver throughout the summer. I don't know what filter to go with or if they had a cover at the open end of the elbow to adapt it to the maf pipe.
 
There was no cover at the open end. That 'ram air' cannister just slid over a normal K&N filter. (it's not actually a ram airsystem, BTW)

Seems like it was a 9" long filter with a 3" neck.
 
There was no cover at the open end. That 'ram air' cannister just slid over a normal K&N filter. (it's not actually a ram airsystem, BTW)

Seems like it was a 9" long filter with a 3" neck.
There was no cover at the open end. That 'ram air' cannister just slid over a normal K&N filter. (it's not actually a ram airsystem, BTW)

Seems like it was a 9" long filter with a 3" neck.
So the maf pipe just slides in open end of filter?
 
no, the MAF sticks in the filter and the filter slides into the canister.
Correct that's what I said maf slides into open end of filter...filter just slides into cannister?? No cannister cover or brackets required to hook up??? In the pic above what are the screws holding? Are they just screwed to the filter or is there a end cover I need to fabricate?
 
That engine pic you posted isn't exactly ''period correct''. When Kenne Bell was selling that contraption (worth 2 tenths and 2MPH) the translator didn't exist yet. That pic has a 3" MAF pipe that necks up to a 3.5" LS1 MAF and then necks back down with some sort of custom hose to hook it to the 3" filter.


There are no seals or plates or anything because like I said that's not a ram air system. They even put slots on the bottom to bleed off any pressure it make make so debris can fall out. You're just going to have to take your specific MAF pipe and MAF and make something that lets them all bolt up.


Honestly if you're worried about the filter being exposed, you're better off putting that cannister on Ebay. (With any luck the guy that paid out he nose for the KB pressure gauge would bid on it).

A normal filter on the cold side of the firewall gets loosely exposed to road elements swirling around in there.... Those type systems get road elements sprayed directly on it. I've got an ATR 'ram air'' with a 14" filter that came with my car. You could see a definitive black spot on the filter where the inlet tube was. (It was also proved to be a restriction back when the average modded hot street car were much slower).


That reminds me, I need to get off my butt and install my 'earlbrown bigass cold air kit' and put that ATR on Ebay.......
 
That engine pic you posted isn't exactly ''period correct''. When Kenne Bell was selling that contraption (worth 2 tenths and 2MPH) the translator didn't exist yet. That pic has a 3" MAF pipe that necks up to a 3.5" LS1 MAF and then necks back down with some sort of custom hose to hook it to the 3" filter.


There are no seals or plates or anything because like I said that's not a ram air system. They even put slots on the bottom to bleed off any pressure it make make so debris can fall out. You're just going to have to take your specific MAF pipe and MAF and make something that lets them all bolt up.


Honestly if you're worried about the filter being exposed, you're better off putting that cannister on Ebay. (With any luck the guy that paid out he nose for the KB pressure gauge would bid on it).

A normal filter on the cold side of the firewall gets loosely exposed to road elements swirling around in there.... Those type systems get road elements sprayed directly on it. I've got an ATR 'ram air'' with a 14" filter that came with my car. You could see a definitive black spot on the filter where the inlet tube was. (It was also proved to be a restriction back when the average modded hot street car were much slower).


That reminds me, I need to get off my butt and install my 'earlbrown bigass cold air kit' and put that ATR on Ebay.......
Just the look im looking for is all, I have the canister, hose and air dam, I also have a 3.5 ls1 maf, with translator just trying to figure out what filter and anything else I need to get my maf is stock at this point you kit looks good I could go with that and my 3.5 ls1 maf but still need to figure out how to connect it all together...does it look like he just put screws into the canister straight into the filter??
 
No, it's just a slip fit. You jab the filter in there and call it good..... just like my ATR wall art.

The only difference between the two is the ATR is longer so the charcoal cannister has to be omitted or relocated. KB made it short enough to leave the charcoal cannister in place at he expense of additional flow area.
 
No, it's just a slip fit. You jab the filter in there and call it good..... just like my ATR wall art.

The only difference between the two is the ATR is longer so the charcoal cannister has to be omitted or relocated. KB made it short enough to leave the charcoal cannister in place at he expense of additional flow area.
Thanks for your info
 
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