Race Ready Electric Cutout does not fit. Anyone using one

Doesn't look any bigger than the units sold by our vendors.

Then again, it's not one of the units sold by any of our vendors.
 
The super wide construction of the unit doesnt allow it to fit under my car. The only way it fits is if the motor hangs straight down and thats obviously not a good idea.

Anyone using one? Anyone have any luck w/ another unit that does fit?

Race Ready Performance EC300SREV1 - Race Ready Performance Electric Exhaust Cutouts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Steve, I run the one Mark sells @ BuickGN.com Its looks very similar. With my 3" THDP & test pipe it fits no problems, but my old setup was a 2 1/2" DP with 2 1/2" test pipe with a 3" dump I believe was all ATR? It did't fit because the header flange was not clocked right when it was welded on the end of the dump to work with the cutout.
I had to cut the flange off and have a new header flange welded back on in the correct location so the motor was in the up position pointed at the frame. You might have to do the same.
 
Steve, I run the one Mark sells @ BuickGN.com Its looks very similar. With my 3" THDP & test pipe it fits no problems, but my old setup was a 2 1/2" DP with 2 1/2" test pipe with a 3" dump I believe was all ATR? It did't fit because the header flange was not clocked right when it was welded on the end of the dump to work with the cutout.
I had to cut the flange off and have a new header flange welded back on in the correct location so the motor was in the up position pointed at the frame. You might have to do the same.


wanna weld it for me ed :) i've never welded b4
 
Race Readys are a knock off of the ones my supplier makes. Should be able to rotate it enough to tuck up by the frame rail. Did you try it both ways? Meaning flip it around? You can also rotate the motor around too at least on the ones I sell. Why not call Race Ready and ask their customer service what to do?
 
I had one of Marks and had the same problem. I just spun my cutout around and it pointed under the car. Motor tucked away perfect and it sounded good. No pics because its no longer working or on the car. I drove it alot and may have not used it enough to keep it moving freely. It was a DMH or something like that.
 
Looks just like my QTP and most the others I have seen...the 3-bolt flange on the cutout needs to be loose (just like a 3-bolt header flange) not welded so it can be rotated to the best fit. If it's welded in place you will have to cut it off and clock to the right place and re-weld.

not the best pic but you still can see how the flange is clocked...
 

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have a race ready 3" c/o mounted on a TA performance dump pipe,
car is also lowered a few inches, no problems...
i *think* i mounted it so the motor assembly is facing the drivers side of the car.

great cutout, the control is nice in can do partially open/closed, youll be happy with it when you get it mounted.
 
wanna weld it for me ed :) i've never welded b4

I don't have access to a welding machine anymore. Just about any good shop can do it just make sure you havent overlooked the obvious first. If your still stuck and need it cut and re-done, I would buy a new flange (Tillman usually has them in stock $4.50, K&G should also) bolt it to the Electric cutout and hold it up to the test pipe and make marks to align it for the welder. Then take the dump pipe off and bring it to a shop. Should be like $25-$50 to have it done.
 
Or you could do what one village idiot did. He just CUT THE FRAME of the car so it would fit. "That's a beauty Clark." Owner: "See? Now it fits perfect." The sad part is that wasn't the worst thing that was done to the poor car. What a pile.
 
Just curious do cutouts stop working if you don’t use them on regular bases as to prevent the carbon built up from freezing the moving door?
 
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