question about the casper knock gauge

[crownvic96]

i was sifting through the archives here and i saw where people were having a lot of problems a couple years ago with getting the knock gauge to function properly. has anything been addressed about this or is hooking up a switch to one of the power wires to reset after startup or hooking it up to the radio feed still the main solutions?

also when putting this in since i have a 92k mile car should i just go ahead and replace the esc and knock sensor?

 

[Black Car]

Second question first.
There is no need to replace the ESC & knock sensor if they are working.
My esc & knock sensor are the original ones and the car has over 300,000 miles on it.

Now for the first ?
Not all cars had the problem with having to break/reset the power to the knock gauge. I would just hook it up and see if it worked correctly first. You can always add the switch later.


Gary

 

[2QUIK6]

I have a Caspaers knock gauge on both my GN and TTA, the GN had to have the switch, the TTA did not. I swapped them, the GN still needed a switch to reset after startup. I have no idea why.

 

[Tin Man]

I had to wire a switch for mine.

 

[JDSfastGN]

I just installed one as well and it works fine as is, no need for a switch

 

[crownvic96]

where did you run your power and ground to?

 

[JDSfastGN]

Originally posted by crownvic96
where did you run your power and ground to?

There are some instructions that come wtih the gauge, there is a battery ground and power wire going into the ECM that i tapped into, it will tell you which one. Was a pretty easy install, i also spliced in a caspers audible gauge as well

 

[at7we2]

I've got a Casper's knock gauge on my '87 GN. It works fine *most* of the time. Sometimes it registers knock on startup and does not reset. I haven't installed a reset switch yet, but it's on my list.

 

[2QUIK6]

Originally posted by crownvic96
where did you run your power and ground to?

On my GN with the switch, power is from an accessory power wire, only on when key is on. The ground I tried in every place imaginable, still needed a reset switch. I've been thru all of this with John Spina, he even sent me another gauge before I had the TTA, nothing worked. Its not a big deal, I just put a switch in my ashtray plate as I've got a switch plate there for up to 6 switches, and had an empty one.

 

[crownvic96]

i was just wondering. cause in an older thread on here some people said they were tapping power off of the fusebox from the radio as it kills power to it during cranking and that seemed like a good fix.

 

[strikeeagle]

Ah, Casper's knock gauge. Yes, I had one that seemed to need a switch on initial install, and Spina replaced it. Problem solved.

I powered it using a spare IGN out of the fuse box, and used the ground under the dash to the left of the steering column.

Never did trust the thing. And of course, you can't tell how much knock. And truthfully, I didn't care for spicing into that skinny little wire feeding the ECM - made me nervous.

My point of view is that you can buy the gauge, or your 1/3 of the way to a Scanmaster, which installs easily, doesn't have the "switch" problem, requires no splices, provides a numerical readout, and does a whole lot more, too.

Your choice.

strike

 

[crownvic96]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
Ah, Casper's knock gauge. Yes, I had one that seemed to need a switch on initial install, and Spina replaced it. Problem solved.

I powered it using a spare IGN out of the fuse box, and used the ground under the dash to the left of the steering column.

Never did trust the thing. And of course, you can't tell how much knock. And truthfully, I didn't care for spicing into that skinny little wire feeding the ECM - made me nervous.

My point of view is that you can buy the gauge, or your 1/3 of the way to a Scanmaster, which installs easily, doesn't have the "switch" problem, requires no splices, provides a numerical readout, and does a whole lot more, too.

Your choice.

strike

scanmasters already on order too. i thought you got a faster readout off of the knock gauge vs the scanmaster?

 

[strikeeagle]

Don't know about that. The SM updates about 1.5 seconds - I'd think that would work. I'd venture a lot more folks are using the SM for knock detection that the CKG. I don't know how I lived with one (SM) for so long...

strike

 

[2QUIK6]

The SM reads off of the ALDL which updates about once every 1.5 sec as mentioned. The SM is a great tuning tool, but I preferred having a real time reading of the knock sensor cause alot can happen in 1.5 seconds. As far as the gauge reading knock correctly, mine seems to work pretty good, anything in the green is below 3 degrees KR, anything in the orange is about 3-5, and anything red is more. I have my boost and KR gauge in the A-pillar and I pretty much watch them the entire time when in the boost, my peripheral vision can see the colors, as soon as orange lites, I lift. I also use Direct Scan which I can playback to confirm what I see afterwards.
SM is great for a driver car since it does alot more than just knock, and its a pain to have a laptop hooked up all the time, so, you can't lose by having both.

 

[crownvic96]

Originally posted by 2QUIK6
The SM reads off of the ALDL which updates about once every 1.5 sec as mentioned. The SM is a great tuning tool, but I preferred having a real time reading of the knock sensor cause alot can happen in 1.5 seconds. As far as the gauge reading knock correctly, mine seems to work pretty good, anything in the green is below 3 degrees KR, anything in the orange is about 3-5, and anything red is more. I have my boost and KR gauge in the A-pillar and I pretty much watch them the entire time when in the boost, my peripheral vision can see the colors, as soon as orange lites, I lift. I also use Direct Scan which I can playback to confirm what I see afterwards.
SM is great for a driver car since it does alot more than just knock, and its a pain to have a laptop hooked up all the time, so, you can't lose by having both.

1.5s is WWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY to long for a knock reading. figure the 1.5s plus reaction time. you are already eating an engine possible.

i'm going to go with a boost/vacuum or maybe just a boost gauge and the knock sensor on my a pillar also

 

[2QUIK6]

Originally posted by crownvic96
i'm going to go with a boost/vacuum or maybe just a boost gauge and the knock sensor on my a pillar also

Go with the Autometer 30/30 vac/boost gauge, you'll be glad you did rather than just a boost gauge. I just recently switched, and its always good to see the 10-15vac at idle cause you know the motor is healthly and no wiped cam lopes or big leaks.

 

[SFITurbo]

Originally posted by 2QUIK6
Go with the Autometer 30/30 vac/boost gauge, you'll be glad you did rather than just a boost gauge. I just recently switched, and its always good to see the 10-15vac at idle cause you know the motor is healthly and no wiped cam lopes or big leaks.

Second that!!! Turn the gauge in the pod to where you want the max boost needle to be for quick glances on WOT blasts.

 

[crownvic96]

Originally posted by 2QUIK6
Go with the Autometer 30/30 vac/boost gauge, you'll be glad you did rather than just a boost gauge. I just recently switched, and its always good to see the 10-15vac at idle cause you know the motor is healthly and no wiped cam lopes or big leaks.

roger that. i had the 30/20 on my '83 280zx turbo. i like em

 

[Fakeyankee]

Not trying to hi-jack this thread but can someone tell me which setting on the scanmaster has the knock readout ?? I'm still learning about this car. Please explain in laymans terms also !!
Thanks.

 

[OConnor]

My knock gauge is hooked up off the fuse box so it gets power after ignition and never has a problem.