turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
I would say this roughly describes the trend we were seeing. Would drive several miles at lower road speed and watch the sump temps drop, then raise road speed and back up.
AG.
PTC 9.5" NL cruise videos ATTENTION Rob Zombie
- Thread starter bison
- Start date
AG.
This is an interesting thread. Since we are on the subject, i have been given multiple answers when i ask this question what Trans Oil is being used with these temps. I have used DEXVI but after switching around a bit i tried Type F and it works very well nice tight crisp shifts while the dex feels a little lazy when temps are higher. Brian what has been in your trans for 5 years that has taken all that abuse? Also how much driving does the car see other than just driving to track and making handful of 1/4 mile hits. Any weekend crusises any traffic? i try to change out my trans fluid every 6 months to a year and i always break my head on what i should use. I was even told to use hydraulic fluid from John Deere. This is one area i really need some honest pro opinions. Shit 5 years and taking all that abuse something is working in that oil.
Lonnie, Dusty i would also like to hear your opinion,
Lonnie, Dusty i would also like to hear your opinion,
I have no Idea what fluid you could use for 5 years with the HIway temps that I have seen using these converters. I have had personal hands on with 3 cars with the overheating problem but have worked with many more over the phone. Including different manufactures. Some cars run hot but able to keep in check others cant do it. But none of the ones I have worked with can keep them cool after a few minutes on the hiway at speeds in the 65-75 range and once the trans is hot it takes a long time at a reduced speed to cool it down. Some dont cool down till the car is parked.
I personally like the B&M Trick Shift these days. Its just a high quality Type F. The dex6 is now an equivalent fluid ( meets or exceeds on the bottle ) so I no longer trust it.
Its a pretty simple solution. If you can keep your transmission cool good for you. If you cant add a sprag. If you are buying and have a true street that sees hiway driving just buy add a sprag. The converter will perform the same. Simple solution.
Flyin Brian
Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2011
Mine will start to heat up if I drive faster than 80 on the freeway but will stay under 200 if I drive 75 or slower. That is with the a/c running on a hot day. I drove about 100 miles on the highway last weekend with the a/c on and an ambient temperature of about 90 and the trans fluid stayed at 190 with the engine at about 185. Turning off the a/c and getting into slower traffic drops those temperatures. I have been monitoring this all summer and am still experimenting with solutions. I have no radiator boxing so most of my air runs down the front of the FMIC and under the car at highway speed. I will be putting in the radiator boxing soon and will check results. I am also going to do some other passive things to try and bring my under hood temps down. I will be wrapping the downpipe and also putting some heat shielding in between the downpipe and the trans/trans lines to see if that has any effect. I may also get one of Mark's aluminum finned trans pans and see if that helps. I also want to get the pan so I can drill and tap in a proper sender for a trans temp gauge and I can ditch the thermocouple wire running down my dipstick tube which I currently monitor fluid temps with. I will post results as I get them. This has been a great thread and I would like to thank everyone for contributing to it. I have learned a lot on this forum over the years and continue to do so.
It was dex 3. It hasn't seen much abuse. The trans doesn't get that hot. I don't drive 80mph on the highway. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know if you're driving into the converter while cruising. If you are you back off the throttle a little. I rarely drive over 70 with typical cruise speeds of 60-65. Drove it about 3000 miles since May. 580 of it weekend of from October 18-20. I wouldn't be afraid of driving 1000miles with it. I don't hot lap it at the drag strip either. If I was I would suck it out and replace with cold fluid. I don't see too many 200-4R trans fail because of heat. I saw one get really hot and blacken/blue the bushings and oxidize the oil. It still had good line pressure though and good shifting. It wasn't a sprag less converter either. I see a lot of them fail at the direct clutch because of poor hyd calibration, worn parts, and sloppy assembly or the owner has modified the car to the point the engine has about 50% more power than stock and the trans is stock!
BPE2013@hotmail.com
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Yes I will put a diode in any converter if the customer wants it.
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Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I recommend to run what ever fluid that your trans builder recommends. The converter doesn't care if its Type F or tractor fluid. The thicker fluid will make the converter a little tighter though.
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What do you use in your Turbo BBC
Dusty Bradford
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Tractor fluid. It will not foam from the heat of trans brake launches like regular fluid will.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Must be the wrong speedometer gears. LOL
We never see the speedometer. A more telling picture of this converter could be seen if we were allowed to view TPS,RPM,MPH,and trans temp simultaneously. There is no engine braking without a sprag. This is an awesome drag racing converter,but I don't think enough information is given about it's street manners to allow for an informed decision. The torque converter is an exercise in compromise. It's no different with this one.
