problems with my new PTE TE-44

NeXuS1

Battle Ready
Joined
Mar 26, 2002
After searching the board for several days and doing all the research i could i'm come to a wall...

At the end of april I bought a TE-44 from PTE (which took FOREVER to get, but thats another story.)

Now after finally getting what I paid for and everything else that went wrong back together I have this problem:

WOT in any gear I get 8 psi, at a stop trying to build boost the best that comes is 1-2 psi, from a stop or a roll it spools insanely slow.

all the above kind of made me believe the puck in the stock elbow, wasn't sealing correctly. since it appears from what I read that the wastegate hole in most TE-44s are ported. I checked this problem after triple checking the Y hose going to the wastegate actuator was on correctly. After looking at the carbon ring on the puck and on the turbo its self it looks to me that its sealing. The line appears a little thin on the turbo, maybe its still a problem, hard for me to tell. I'll see about getting some pictures see if anyone else can judge.

After that I put the elbow back on and double checked to make sure it was bolted down nice and tight (not too tight that it would strip the housing)

Now I figured since everything above seemed to check out, that may I had an exhaust leak. So I had my brother look around the engine while I tried to build some boost, since it was pointless for me to try and look at it at idle. That turned up nothing.

Next I checked the intercooler and all of its connections. That turned up nothing either.

So out of ideas, I decided to put the stock oil blowing turbo back on to see if it acts the same way as the new turbo (since the car has been sitting since late april till a week or two ago.) Did some testing tonight, and it performs just like it did before I dumped a lot of money on the PTE TE-44.

The turbolink logs from the tests with both turbos show about the same data, just one with a peak of 8 psi.

The car sits mostly stock except, accufab FPR, green stripe injectors (30lb hr ones), 160 degree thermostat, the motor was rebuilt sometime before I came to be the new owner. So all I know about that from what i've seen/read:
None stock timing gear/chain. and the best I can make out on one of the receipts is something about TRW pistons that cost $675 or so. Not sure on the fuel pump so I have a racetronix hotwire kit with 340m sitting in the trunk with a few other goodies i'm waiting on installing till I solve this problem.

Sorry for the whole life story thing (at least thats how it feels to me). i'm at a loss, so I figure every little bit helps.

Maybe someone, can point out something I forgot to check or something else I can check. I hate this feeling of not being able to fix my own car, or feeling of hate for a car that won't let me fix it.

Thanks for any help.
-Jason
 
Well, it's pretty obvious from your description of the problem, that you are pretty much down to two choices of the problem to find.

1. Massive exhaust leak (which you should be able to hear/feel).

2. Puck not sealing properly (my guess).

It's just that you'll need to figure out why (the hard part) ;)
 
Originally posted by tonka
Ya got good tension on the wastegate?

yes, i checked that a few times.

i have some pictures of the carbon ring, i just need to resize/compress them and put them up somewhere.
 
Hey I went through the same problem when I bought my PTE44, I thought I had the tension enough but it was not even close. The only thing that worked before I found out I didn't have enough tension was to put it tuner style and tighten it down. After I put it back using the solenoid I just tightened up the actuator until it spooled very quickly and then slowly backed it down to where I wanted it set at. Before I figured out what was goin on it seemed tight at first but it would spool so slow and then when 2nd hit it would climb all the way to 21 psi or so. I was completely confused and continued to back it off trying to get down to 18 or so, but the tension was not enough to keep the boost under control. So just tighten the rod until you get the spoolup you're looking for and then start backing it down to the right level jsut don't go to far, because I think the wastegate that comes on the PTE44s has a minimum level of 16 or so, anything less and its hard to keep the puck sealed. I hope this made sense, its late and I'm tired lol. If you need any help pm me.
 
I'm still using the stock actuator, didn't buy PTE's "complete' version, since i figured i could reuse my actuator and elbow for a while. And before I got into modding the stock actuator and/or replacing it. I was hoping it just to get back to stock boost levels then install the rest of the parts I have waiting.

incase someone wants to take a look i have a couple pictures of the carbon ring.

http://nexusgod.netfirms.com/buickstuff/

the flash really made the line a lot easier to see. So it's starting to look like the puck maybe... Just wish I had something else I could test it with to be 100% sure thats the problem.
 
How does the wastegate hole size compare to your stocker? Bigger hole on the 44 will take more spring tension from actuator to hold it closed compared to the stock turbo...
 
puck problem

how do i fix a puck that may be causing my stock turbo to not go over 12-14lbs...there is no exhaust leak or vaccum leak...help
 
Nexus....did you flatten the flange on the headers before you put on the new turbo?

The old header flange and old turbo flange will warp in unison. Once you put a new turbo with a flat flange on the header it'll leak.

Using the side of a 60 grit 8" grinder wheel, hand rub away on the header flange until it's flat. Once you start rubbing back and forth you'll see how warped it is. Put a rag into the header before you do this.
 
How does the wastegate hole size compare to your stocker? Bigger hole on the 44 will take more spring tension from actuator to hold it closed compared to the stock turbo...

The larger WG hole on the new turbo will allow more surface area of the puck to show, therefore the same pressure exhaust gasses will be applying more pressure on the puck requiring greater tension on the rod. note: .100" larger will require about 20% more spring tension. HTH explain things a little better.
 
Here is what I’ve found:

TE-44 wastegate hole: .928”
Stock turbo wastegate hole: .828”
Wastegate puck in stock elbow: 1.130” (diameter)

For the most part I think I have the problem kind of solved.

When I put the stock actuator back on I could only line up one bolt and figured for some testing it would be ok. but when I went back inside to get out the heat for a few minutes before I burst into flames, my dad came out and decided to check my work (why I don't know) since I’m using his garage and tools. And decided he didn't like the way the actuator was being held on. So he drilled a new hole in the plate and tried to line it up better. In doing so it made the actuator lose almost all its tension on the puck, the actuator would slide on and off the punk linkage extremely easily. didn't find this out till he mentioned that he "helped me out" So I moved the actuator again and got more tension on the puck.

So far its back to about what I was seeing stock. Just minus all the oil being blown into the intake.

Thanks for all the help.
 
kinda funny how i bought a PTE-44 turbo last summer and it only took a week for them to make it for me...of course i only live 10 miles from them so i picked it up personally when it was done...and as soon as i slapped it on i was running with no problems whatsoever...i have had it up to 27 psi with no hiccups and i am still using the stock elbow and a 3" postons downpipe...i also bought an aftermarket wastegate actuator (not PTE's) and it didn't fit in the holes exactly on the turbo so i just used one hole and tightened it very hard...hasn't moved and i haven't had boost problems:)
 
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