PREVENT orange ECM connector from making contact?

[JimK]

Here are a couple pics I took so I could temporarily see what I was working with ... yeah, there is a clip over top the pin, like I thought. Is there some special way to get that off of there?

(Sorry it's no completely in focus ... kept wanting to focus on the background.)

View media item 211View media item 210
Thanks!

 

[JimK]

Break the lock nut loose before removing rod. Then remove the little horse shoe clip with a pick tool while holding with your thumb so it doesnt go flying. Then pull off with pliers but dont damage threads. Then lengthen the rod as long as you want. Then reverse proceedure.

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I see the horseshoe clip (pretty much like I imagined), but don't see the lock nut. (see pics). Maybe on mine I can just remove that horseshoe clip and then it will slide off? Sorry if I'm being obtuse and missing something obvious.

 

[achalmersman]

Your pics are not posted. The nut is on the threaded part of the shaft assuming you have an adjustable actuator.

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[JimK]

Ahh, defaults to private ... fixed it, you should be able to see it now. I got the clip off without a problem. Do you mean the rusted part that the non-rusted threads are going into? Just thought that was a "receiving shaft", didn't realize it was a nut (assuming that's it.)

 

[achalmersman]

Still no pictures. At least not in tapatalk app.

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[achalmersman]

This is allbI see. Maybe others can see. Try posting the image directly to the forum. Dont try linking it.

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[JimK]

Sorry, not sure why that didn't work ... how about now?

 

[Powertechn2]

You don't have a locknut.

The clip should just come off with a pick I would assume. Wrap it with a rag or it might disappear into never never land.

I don't have that clip, or at least from the pics (blurry kinda), mine is different. Had a standard E clip. Now has an alligator clip for the time being.

 

[JimK]

You don't have a locknut.

The clip should just come off with a pick I would assume. Wrap it with a rag or it might disappear into never never land.

I don't have that clip, or at least from the pics (blurry kinda), mine is different. Had a standard E clip. Now has an alligator clip for the time being.

Yeah, I got the clip off no problem (it's back on for now). Ok, didn't think I was not seeing a lock-nut. So once I take that clip off, can I just grab the rusted part (the sleeve I call it) with some pliers or the like and pull it off the pin? Then I assume I can turn that whole sleeve (again, rusted part) counter-clockwise to drop the boost, and then re-attach. I imagine that pin swings to the left and right, and will have to swing to the left to accommodate the longer wastegate shaft, right?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[JimK]

Or actually, there are really three parts ... there is the keyhold part (far left) that hooks onto the pin, which then goes into the second part (the "tube"), which is followed by the threaded rod. I was thinking the key-hole part and the "tube" part turned together around the threaded rod. But perhaps not ... does the keyhole part spin independently of the middle (second part, "tube") ?

 

[Pronto]

Once the clip is off you need to pull the rod out to get slack so the rod will slip off the pin. When it's off the pin loosen the lockout and spin the rod longer. This will kill your boost.

 

[JimK]

Once the clip is off you need to pull the rod out to get slack so the rod will slip off the pin. When it's off the pin loosen the lockout and spin the rod longer. This will kill your boost.

Thanks, gotcha on the first part ... but what is the "lockout"? And I'm spinning the left "half" (or am I correct that there are really three moving parts there?) counter-clockwise, correct?

Edit: Thinking the lockout is the "middle" piece (the tube, or sleeve). If so, turning that ccw to loosen as well?

 

[Pronto]

Locknut. After looking at the pic again, there is no locknut. Just spin it but hold the shank.

 

[JimK]

Locknut. After looking at the pic again, there is no locknut. Just spin it but hold the shank.

Oh, lock-nut ... right, none ... already established, lol.

OK, but just to be sure ... so just hold the threaded part (preferably not on the thread of course), then turn the upper (left part, keyhole AND shaft/tube part) COUNTER-clockwise, correct?

 

[JimK]

Nevermind ... did it! Much easier than I thought ... I tend to make things more complicated in my head. (Then there are those times when you think something is going to be easy and it turns into a nightmare ... guess I was just trying to avoid that as much as possible, as there was a massive time constraint involved.)

I turned it a good 16-17 times ... I say 16-17 because I lost count on between a 1/2-turn and full, so it is either 16.5 of 17.5. Either way that should have zeroed it or maybe even negative boost (if that's possible).

Thanks all!