Premature Walbro Failure

It may be..

the grnd on the hanger to the cover is fubar... mite look OK, but is not.
AIRC, someone wrote a post about how they fixed the problem. NE1 remember? :confused:
NE way.. I'd pull the pump, and take a look...
 
the grnd on the hanger to the cover is fubar... mite look OK, but is not.
AIRC, someone wrote a post about how they fixed the problem. NE1 remember? :confused:
NE way.. I'd pull the pump, and take a look...

I remember a post like that as well & probably where my method came from. In fact I'd bet on it cuz I like to copy what works! Then added more! ;)

Anyways, I drilled a small hole & ran a bolt/stud thing thru the pump cover where the inside ground wire comes thru & attached a good wire to outer side of cover with good washers that Bite. From there it goes to the frame & then to the body. I also have one drilled thru the corner of the tank to frame & body. (Racetronix kits come with a clip from tank to body now) I also have a ground strap from frame to body up under the rear bumper. The thing is Grounded!! Never had problems in many years now. I also added 1-2 up front just cuz I am sorta nuts that way! But no issues with grounding for LC-1, Gen2 etc.


PS: I used the undersize crank pulley back then without a smaller alt pulley (like I did before I removed it all) & I bet it wasnt helping matters voltage wise?
 
Never let tank go below 1/4 mark . I have pulled several Walbro pumps after 1-2 years and find a lots of sock material in bottom of pump. This can't be good.
 
Just had to chime in ............
Apparently the Walboro 340's failures you have experienced are not isolated.
Just had a close friend go through 2 in about 2 months, both purchased from reputable vendors who claim to purchase direct from Walboro.

As far as the relay ..........
You also "get what you pay for" in this case.
DO NOT get the cheap "over the counter" relays.
They will fall apart, short out, which can burn your car down!
Get a good waterproof relay from a reputable vendor. They are around $40.
Besides getting stranded, and doing it again, is it worth rolling the dice for $30? :eek:

Ground .......... Here is how I did it
Took about 2 ft of 12ga cable and stripped and soldered the end (corrosion protection :tongue: )
Took a small hose clamp, and clamped the stripped end to the metal part of the return line on the hanger.
The other side was added to the frame.

Originally, I had it on the "flap" of the tank.
Than I started thinking about the O-ring seal and its insulation properties ........ :eek:
 
Just replaced mine

I got 2 years of pretty hard driving with boost north of 20psi. Suspected something was up when my duty cycle went to 105%. Normally runs between 50 and 60%. It's good insurance to replace annually.
 
Originally, I had it on the "flap" of the tank.
Than I started thinking about the O-ring seal and its insulation properties ........ :eek:

The O-ring seals between the tank and the hanger but the retaining ring that secures the hanger in the tank makes the connection between the hanger and the tank. Unless you have a lot of corrosion around the retaining ring.

David
 
Bens87tr, I would recommend you upgrade to a 340 (10000269) pump vs the 307, as the 340 has a higher bypass rating than the 307.
A higher bypass rating is maditory on Turbo Buick applications that typically can see 60-70psi of fuel pressure under WOT.

Realistically, if you think about it, the piece of rubber FI hose that connects the hanger to the pump would also hinder a good ground. The pump has no metal to metal contact with the hanger other than the negative ground wire. The pump is basically suspended by the rubber hose and resting in it's rubber insulated hanger bushing on the bottom of the pump. So knowing that, I would think the best way to properly ground that hanger, would be to attach a ground from the sending unit/hanger, to the frame. Clamping a ground to the return line would serve this purpose nicely.

A couple of things that can lead to premature pump failure are,

- Clogged or collapsed fuel sock.
- Trash in the tank injested by the pump and or clogging the pumps internal mesh screen.
- Crimped feed line or return line, forcing the pump to work to harder than normal, leading to premature failure. This can be eleviated to some extent by using a 20 amp fuse vs a 30 amp fuse in your hot wire kit. This was something I learned from Weldon with their pumps and would only make sense that the fuse would pop first before internal damage was done to the pump due to over heating.
- Fuel slosh causing the pump to suck air (cavitate) leads to over heating and damaged motor. Solution, never race the car with less than 7-8 gallons in the tank. Always more than 1/2 tank for me.
- Clogged OEM fuel filter, puts strain on the pump, which can shorten it's life span.

Now, you couple all of these factors with 14 volts that we run under WOT, and you can see where the pump can be subject to premature failure. During my time at PTE, I can remember handling around 20 or so Walbro pump failures/returns. And believe me, getting them to replace a failed one was next to impossible. This was always handled by the vendor. Namely, PTE would eat the loss. Chalk it up to the price of doing business. Walbro has always been a hard company to deal with. Especially when trying to get an official catalog of part numbers that show applications. I know Rod and I spent the better part of two months, compiling info from our customers and putting together one, if not the best application guide I've ever seen for Walbro pumps. That was 3 years ago. It can still be downloaded from their site today. Precision Turbo & Engine - Turbocharger, Intercooler, Fuel Injector, Performance Parts & more! under the download section. Yes, it's in their retail price sheet. The problem you run into is, most vendors do not tell you the official Walbro part numbers.

Good grounds are a very important thing with our cars. Something that most people tend to over look, and simply put faith in the factory grounds. This can be a bad thing. John Spina at Caspers Electronics has really done alot of homework for our cars with solving most of the wiring and grounding issues. With most cars' wiring being 21 years old, wiring in general is something that will need to be addressed sooner rather than later.
Hope this helps.

Patrick
 
I agree that GOOD Grounds are so important! Not just for pumps but everything! Add a few extra good ones here & there. Doesnt hurt but can indeed help! The one to the pump hangar cover is so easy to do & I think has helped my own pumps survive.
 
Had one fail just recently after using it for only 4 months.

Put in the 20 yr old pump back in and lo and behold it works perfectly.

Just have to drive it easy till I get a replacement.:rolleyes:
 
Had one fail just recently after using it for only 4 months.

Put in the 20 yr old pump back in and lo and behold it works perfectly.

Just have to drive it easy till I get a replacement.:rolleyes:

I had one fail after half a tank if idling. Granted, it was over two year period while I was working out some bugs. It shocked the hell out of me when my car wouldn't start; I figure something else failed until I swapped pumps. Fortunately this was in C4 Corvette, which are super easy to swap fuel pumps. My Syclone Walbro pump is going on 8 years, I am going to replace it this year.
 
Just my luck, I started reading this thread a few days ago and now today my Walbro 340 laid down. It had about ten thousand miles on it:(
 
I had one fail on me after 13 months. I tried to get satisfaction from the supplier and was told that the warranty is only 30 days. Imagine placing a 30 day warranty on something that should be reasonably expected to last years and thousands of miles. I understand it's not the suppliers problem but if your account includes thousands, that's a couple, dollars spent with them you'd think they'd send you out a $70 part.
 
Doing some snooping..

I sent an email to Walbro. No response. Sent a second, and got this back. Very interesting!
Dear Mr. Leeper,
I have forwarded your message to T.I. Automotive, LLC. They manufacture the fuel pumps for fuel injected automotive applications.
T.I. Automotive and Walbro Engine Management used to be owned by the same parent company; however we have been totally separate companies for about a year. They continue to manufacture the fuel pumps for fuel injected automotive applications using the “Walbro” name.
Regards,
Ann Swanson
Assoc. Program Manager
Walbro Engine Management
6242 Garfield Street
Cass City, MI 48726

I then googled T.I Automotive, and found several locations around the USA, that mfgr thier products. So far, I've not tracked down exactly where the pumps are made. Since this co is worldwide, they may be in China..[Who isn't??]:eek:
I sent Ms Swanson another email asking for a TI contact. We'll see what happens from here.
TI Automotive is the link. They have alot of "stuff" going on in the world.. Several sites here in GA.
 
I think

Are there any in tank alternatives? What ever happened with Red Armstrong's pumps?

Red's are nothing more than Walbros w/ the relief valve "modified" w/ a piece of wire, and the name ground off of the side.

here's the latest from Walbro:
"Mr. Leeper,
I am not surprised that you have not yet received a response from T.I. Automotive. I was out of the office yesterday and just forwarded your message this morning.
Based on what you are saying below, it sounds like you are talking about knock-off pumps made by someone in China. If this is the case, I doubt if anyone at T.I. can do much about this. They could only help you with genuine parts they manufacture. Unfortunately, there are knock-off, copycat products made every day at many low cost manufacturing facilities. Most often, these knock-off products don’t perform as well as the real thing.
I forwarded you e-mail below to Joe Yoon, General Manager of T.I. Automotive Aftermarket Division. I am not sure if he is the appropriate contact there, but I assume he will forward your e-mail to the appropriate person. Joe’s direct phone number is 989-672-8230 and his e-mail is jyoon@us.tiauto.com."

I'll post when/if I get further responses...
 
Chuck(and all) Walbro just contacted me about your email, I have a pump here that failed on a Buick we are going to meet and he is going to take it apart and try to see what happened. Stay tuned
Mike
 
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