Powermaster problems, help me diagnosis.......

Joined
Nov 24, 2013
When I turn the ignition the powermaster will not shut off ( 45 seconds is the longest i let it go). If I pump the brakes once it will shut off after 2-3 seconds but then it blows the fuse 2 seconds later? The fluid levels are normal after the pump down 10 times. It does have the original accumulator but a new grey sensor.
 
So according to the diagnostic chart I am supposed to replace the pump and motor? Sounds expensive........Any opinions or advise welcome as this is all new to me. I hope there is some more tests or suggestions that I can try first before replacing almost the entire unit.
 
Cardone re-manufactures them. Kirban , I believe sells them and will buy your old one. Search for current threads on Hydroboost (in the how to section), or vacuum systems, and you will find a lot to digest.
 
IMHO If you want to keep the powermaster setup a complete rebuilt unit with lifetime warranty from Kirban is the only way to go.
 
Or go with a vacuum set-up. You'll need a brake pedal from a regular vacuum brake G body to go along with the booster and m/c.
 
I have done the vacuum switch-over and also the Powermaster change-out. The PM is a lot easier, since you don't have to take out the brake pedal. It is a royal pain for a big guy like me! The lifetime PM warranty from Kirban is a good deal, IMO, even though the entry fee is steep.
 
A couple of years ago when i got the car I tried to start the car and the brake fluid was very low( before I knew anything about this car) and it could have sucked air into the powermaster brake system then......would this cause all the problems? Would just bleeding the lines possibly fix it......or am I just hoping for a simple fix that will not work?
 
If the pump sucked some air, it wouldn't take more than a few cycles to purge it through the accumulator boost circuit.

Individual parts in case you are interested:

Pump and motor assembly runs about $350 from oldbuickparts.com
New accumulator about $180 from ebay or just about any vendor
new Switch about $95
New master cylinder internal seal kit runs about $90 from Karps power brake service in california. They have a website. I'm sure they have all the other parts too, but never asked them. http://www.karpspb.com/booster.htm

The cardone re-man units come with used cleaned up and tested pump/motor assemblies. Nothing wrong with that, but new is nice.
 
If the pump sucked some air, it wouldn't take more than a few cycles to purge it through the accumulator boost circuit.

Individual parts in case you are interested:

Pump and motor assembly runs about $350 from oldbuickparts.com
New accumulator about $180 from ebay or just about any vendor
new Switch about $95
New master cylinder internal seal kit runs about $90 from Karps power brake service in california. They have a website. I'm sure they have all the other parts too, but never asked them. http://www.karpspb.com/booster.htm

The cardone re-man units come with used cleaned up and tested pump/motor assemblies. Nothing wrong with that, but new is nice.
cool, thank you for all the info. Is the a diagram of how to rebuild/install the kits?
 
my interior lights were staying on , they would not go off after you closed the door. Now that i removed the 30 amp fuse for the breaks the lights are working normal and shut off when I close the doors......what the hell is going on? I am more confused than ever now!
 
has anyone run into this problem? My interior lights were staying on , they would not go off after you closed the door. Now that i removed the 30 amp fuse for the breaks the lights are working normal and shut off when I close the doors......what the hell is going on? I am more confused than ever now!
 
Sounds like something is shorted. A meter and some time to sort through it sounds like what is needed.

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I suggest giving a call to John Spina at Caspers Electronics. He will know better than anybody.
 
Here is a kinda off topic question. How do you know if the brake pedal matches vac boost system, and if it doesn't what will happen?
Just curious, thanks.
Also, sorry to O.P. for asking in his thread.
 
my interior lights were staying on , they would not go off after you closed the door. Now that i removed the 30 amp fuse for the breaks the lights are working normal and shut off when I close the doors......what the hell is going on? I am more confused than ever now!
Disconnect the power from the Powermaster and re-insert the 30 amp fuse. Do the interior lights work as they should?
 
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