Powerlogger doesn't work in my car

achalmersman

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2012
Hi guys, I just finished installing a bunch of new stuff (I know one thing at a time) and found a glitch that never happened before. It is in frame 124 of this log. When it happened I tried to hit the space bar and record it and I got lucky. I know I'm lean, and I am overboosting. I have not run the car even remotely hard because of this. I will work all that out. Right now I was just trying to make sure nothing was leaking, no funny noises, etc. The car was at about 9 psi and like 1/3 throttle and just died and came back in a split second. Being a total Powerlogger NEWB I looked at the log and feel like I have either a power / ground issue with the ECM, or a intermittent issue with the ECM.

Here is what I've changed (this didn't happen before)
New Turbo Gen 2 6266 DBB HD wastegate
New RJC 3" downpipe w/ wideband installed roughly 36" from turbo
Used Refurb ECM off this board with NEW powerlogger installed bought from Eric
Scanmaster 2.2 installed, hooked to powerlogger for faster update
Automete FP gauge installed, signal tapped and placed in Pressure 4 input for powerlogger
New Autometer mechanical boost gauge installed
PLX wideband was in old DP, now in new DP
Razor ALKY kit installed / wired / not turned on yet at all
MAP sensor wire for ALKY tapped and ran to MAP input on powerlogger
All new hoses, new belt
New Autolite 133 plugs gapped @ .030"
New MSD 8.5mm wires

When I had the turbo bracket out I cleaned and painted it. Then after installing it occurred to me the main ground is on that bracket, removed and buffed paint off shiny on both sides, reinstalled. I have not tried to troubleshoot this issue yet, I figured I would see if anybody had any "this is your problem" responses from looking at the log (I'm new remember).

Another issue, why can I not change the bottom cells in powerlogger to adjust the tune in the TT 5.7 chip? I double click on the cell, change the number, hit enter and I see it change for a super quick split second and then return to 128. Any advice?

Here is the log. Thanks to all for any help!
 

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I should also add that ALL connections / wiring was completed using either solder and heat shrink, or heat shrinkable butt connectors with the sealant in them. I have used those connectors for years on air bag circuits, sensitive circuits for years with nothing but fantastic results. Not saying its not a connection problem, just saying I doubt it's one that I did.
 
Your battery voltage dropped to zero...question is...why? Have you tried adjusting via the foot throttle to see if your numbers stay locked in?
 
Your battery voltage dropped to zero...question is...why? Have you tried adjusting via the foot throttle to see if your numbers stay locked in?
No I have not used the gas pedal method. Seemed like a pain but I'll try tomorrow. Yea I saw the batt voltage drop but yea idk why. I'll check the Orange wire connector at the battery as that has been getting unplugged and plugged back in a lot recently. Just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas. Thanks for the reply!
 
If the numbers won't stay locked in...then you're losing power to the ECM.
 
If the numbers won't stay locked in...then you're losing power to the ECM.
So you mean it will loose power and regain fast enough to not lock the numbers but not cause any other symptom right away? I'll try gas pedal tomorrow and report back
 
So you mean it will loose power and regain fast enough to not lock the numbers but not cause any other symptom right away? I'll try gas pedal tomorrow and report back

Lose power to the ECM...and Erics chip goes back to the default settings of 128.
 
"New RJC 3" downpipe w/ wideband installed roughly 36" from turbo".
Positive cable shorted to the new dp??
 
I'll check the above. But I'm pretty sure its not. I know I have a brake line pretty close that I wanted to bend a little more out of the way.
 
If you loose power to ecm it will reset your TT chip to 128 , I had a orange wire at the battery problem doing that on mine , corroded connection , I replaced the battery cables from Caspers and no more power to ecm problems , to set the values in the chip you have to have the koeo in the monitor mode to set them cell blocks on a 5.7 chip . Good luck as electrical gremlins are hard to find sometime and sometime they stare you in the face .
 
I had this happen at BG. Everything was good, then 0 volts on a frame on the log, engine shut off, then restarted. I had both the power and ground wires melted through shorting on my header. Disconnect them and look for any shorts. The power goes to the starter, so its easy to pull off and out to inspect. I insulated and taped them up and rerouted them lower and more out of the way, with lots of zip ties.
 
I had the same issue chased it for a long time. I'm 98 percent sure a tr6 will fix your issue. The only reason I don't say 100 is I also changed something else at the same time but I'm sure it was not that. I first changed plugs, wires, coil, moduel, ecm, chip, new power cable, new ground cable, field fix, alternator, cam sensor checked, battery, different power logger, no power logger, check all grounds ect. Now I have a tr6 and no more issue. I was told also it has fixed a few other cars with the same issue.
 
Ok I checked all around the downpipe and starter, etc. car on the lift no wiring issues there.

I was able to change the tune with the gas pedal method but PL does not work for changing tune. No idea why.

Glitch only seems to happen in boost. I unplugged my WG solenoid and now boost is under control.

Worth mentioning this chip was not burned for this turbo but I don't see that causing what I have now?

Why is it if the ECM is loosing bat + I don't loose any of my extra data inputs like the MAP which use the same ECM supplied 5V as the TPS? Thanks for all the help so far!
 
There's more than one +12 input to the ECM.

I'd double check the memory wire +12 wire at the battery if the ECM isn't dropping other functions such as the +5V output etc.
 
Ok I figured out why my power logger won't change the tune. Because I'm an idiot and thought this was a 5.7 chip. Its a 5.6. I'm swapping the ECM back to the factory ECM right now to see if problem persists. Won't have power logger but I'll know if it messes up lol
 
Problem would not occur with original ECM. Swapped back to reman / power logger unit and problem returned. Disconnected I/O board and USB cable, problem went away. Reconnected and now it won't do it :mad:

I'm pretty convinced this is ECM / Power logger / Scan master/ laptop related. That's the only things I've touched that had any effect
 
I'm telling you it will come back. I chased that crap foe months. It would come and go and finally it stayed. It seemed to be when the car got hot and the coil and mod warmed up and then at one point it started to do it all the time. I did the same stuff as u switching back and forth thinking it was this or that or it went away.
 
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