Porting trunk

[Audiowizard]

Originally posted by johnjj728
"so nobody recommends doing the ports??"

I would only recomend using ports only if you are going to build a ported cabinet directly ported into the vehicle itself. I demoed my car for our a/d/s rep (who is a hardcore audiophile..... ) and liked the sound well enough that he offered me a sponsorship, so the way that I built mine evidently worked!!

Now what works well for me "may" or "may not" work for you so I always recomend experimentation.

"what would be a good idea to get more bass into the car itself??"

If you go back through the previous posts on this thread, I seen a few suggestions that will work. Even the ones where there is no cutting involved!!!!

 

[zam70]

PPI Typhoon:
How long have you been with PPI/Orion? I was really heavy with Orion a few years back. Was one of their oldest midwest dealers (started with them at the very beginning) and they sponsored my Comp car for 3 years (until 97 when I got out of all the BS ) I've got a Concept EQ that I need repaired (swapped) I'm told I have to wait until mid to late January for a replacement. Got any inside info? I want to keep my original Concept case...the service people say that I might not be able to....problem is, I have to. I can't fit the bigger one (DEQ230 case) in the space where I mount the EQ.

My opinion's with you...Sub waves should travel through the rear seat just fine if you pull the pad out from behind it. I know mine does.

I personally like sealed boxes better...I like their linear response and don't mind giving up a few DB for what I feel is a big gain in SQ.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Originally posted by johnjj728
so nobody recommends doing the ports??what would be a good idea to get more bass into the car itself??

I would look into a properly ported enclosure or possibly a bandpass enclosure. If you did a bandpass and ported up through the rear deck so that ONLY the ports in the rear deck make sound........that certainly works great. But also, a quick trick is to face the subs to the rear of the vehicle. Every deflection surface "can" yield a gain. And more often than not, you get more bass by just facing the subs to the rear.

If you want.......tell me what subs you're using and shoot me an email at dhanisch@directed.com with the specs. I'll send you some graphs to show you the difference in response from a sealed enclosure vs a ported enclosure. Helps when you see the difference.

It looks like Audiowizard isn't porting his trunk, but rather porting the box up through the rear lid. Is that right?? That way might certainly be a way to go as long as you don't experience a cancellation due to the sub and port being on two different planes.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Originally posted by zam70
PPI Typhoon:
How long have you been with PPI/Orion? I was really heavy with Orion a few years back. Was one of their oldest midwest dealers (started with them at the very beginning) and they sponsored my Comp car for 3 years (until 97 when I got out of all the BS ) I've got a Concept EQ that I need repaired (swapped) I'm told I have to wait until mid to late January for a replacement. Got any inside info? I want to keep my original Concept case...the service people say that I might not be able to....problem is, I have to. I can't fit the bigger one (DEQ230 case) in the space where I mount the EQ.

My opinion's with you...Sub waves should travel through the rear seat just fine if you pull the pad out from behind it. I know mine does.

I personally like sealed boxes better...I like their linear response and don't mind giving up a few DB for what I feel is a big gain in SQ.

Didn't you call me the other day about your Concept?? I remember someone mentioning something about their Concept and how they'd like to keep the case.

But if they told you they'd replace it with the DEQ-230, that's a mistake. The 230 is a PPI unit, where the DEQ 30 is an Orion unit. The DEQ-30 is the exact same size as the concept, which should work for you. The 230, altogether is a separate piece. I think they're confused over there at the main office. lol

But in answer to your question, I've been here over a year now. I started right when things were bad during the days of ADST, then survived when Directed came in.

 

[Audiowizard]

Originally posted by PPI Typhoon
It looks like Audiowizard isn't porting his trunk, but rather porting the box up through the rear lid. Is that right??

You are correct Dan! The twin 3" X 13" ports of the woofer cabinet come up through the rear deck.

 

[zam70]

HEY...... Yeah that was me.....So I guess you're the end word. I was hoping to find a quicker solution then the end of January. I'll probably end up going through you. You seemed to have a better clue as to what needs to happen instead of just model #s on a piece of paper.

Thanks for your help the other day.

Scott

 

[johnjj728]

PPI typhoon youve got mail

 

[mcss383]

Whats louder, a sub in a room with the door closed and you down the hall or the door open? When the door is open....4x10's are the 'door'. I don't feel like pullin out my physics books to prove mathmatically why (don't think they have this in there anyways, but my Fundamentals of Acoustics would I'm sure), I just know it does. I removed the rear speakers to get a better front stage and then had to turn the gain of my sub amp down because it was now overpowering. Like I said, its not defying the laws of physics because it WORKS!

You don't want your sub in a sealed and insulated enclosure when your not in that sealed and insulated enclosure (your trunk is sealed and insulated from the cab). The wavelength isn't of concern here...insulation is insulation.

PPI Ty: Your on a diff wavelength from me. When I said port a ported box in the cab I meant exactly how Audiowizard has his. Run the port for the box into the cab. Hope that clears it up.

 

[salvageV6]

And if you can't tune a sealed box to 25-30 Hz for sound quality AND high output (musically not spl crap) then you must be using Orion subs.

Get some JBL's.

Take the 4 x 10's out and listen, use a meter and 1/3 octave analyzer if you want to get technical.

Report back your findings.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Originally posted by salvageV6
And if you can't tune a sealed box to 25-30 Hz for sound quality AND high output (musically not spl crap) then you must be using Orion subs.

Get some JBL's.

I'll remember you said that after the CES.

Like I said. Your gain will be probably a bandwidth of 5 Hz. I don't see that as a good reason to cut up your car. Obviously you don't understand acoustics. I'm not here to get into a pissing match with anyone. I just have 9 years in the industry and figured I'd help. You want to argue with me? Fine. But I've helped people design systems that win competitions. I figure I know a few things.

Even if you knew anything about audio, you'd not have 4x10's in your car.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Oh, and for the record....I don't have a Buick. Not sure if you noticed that or not. But if you want to get an AZ guy down here with his Buick, I'll hook him up to LMS and do a test. I have access to all the equipment.

You hook it up, I'll show you the results

 

[GNandTTA]

Porting a ported box into the cab of the car WILL net much louder bass.

The key word is LOUDER. LOUDER does not always mean better. Porting into the cab will yeild more of the upper bass frequencies(100 and up). But the good sub bass freqs (30hz - 80hz) will not be affected by any port in the deck. Upper bass freqs are more directional (smaller wavelengths) and benefit more from a port.

If you want sheer volume, port a box through the deck. If you want specifically deep bass, port to the back and don't worry too much about porting through the deck. The deep bass will get through anyway.

 

[zam70]

If pulling your 4X10s out helped, you obviously still have the insulation behind the seat. If that's the case, I believe it could help increase the overall perceived volume (albeit NOT in the true Sub bass region).

I have my sub facing forward cut @ 50hz and there is ZERO difference seat in or out. (I found that facing it forward and isolating it into the cab yielded the most desirable response. with my system playing and the trunk open you hear no bass coming from the trunk area) My system is geared towards 100% sound quality with no concern for SPL. If I can hear it clearly over the engine a road noise, that is plenty loud for me.






By the way, PPItyphoon, WELCOME glad to see you're here.

 

[mcss383]

nope, no insulation behind the seat, that was the first to go.

 

[mcss383]

Originally posted by GNandTTA
The key word is LOUDER. LOUDER does not always mean better.

Never said better. He wanted it to be louder, removing the 4x10's made it louder in my car, period. Its pretty simple, when you have to turn down the gains of the amp to balance the system again it got louder......

EDIT: Excuse me, I did say better, but I MEANT louder bass not better quality by it.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Originally posted by johnjj728
PPI typhoon youve got mail

And you have a response.

And for the rest that are wondering the difference in response with his subs in a sealed vs PROPERLY ported. Here's a direct graph out of BassBox Pro.

 

[mcss383]

a 7db peak @ 60Hz? Good for SPL, not SQ.

 

[PPI Typhoon]

Originally posted by mcss383
a 7db peak @ 60Hz? Good for SPL, not SQ.

Depends on in car response. But that is a lot broader of a bump than 5 Hz by taking out 4x10's

And FYI, that's tuned to 45 Hz. Don't want that much of a peak? Tune it lower. Pretty simple.

But as you noticed above, he wanted louder. I'd rather cut two holes in my box than cut holes in my vehicle anyday.

 

[GNandTTA]

I'd rather cut two holes in my box than cut holes in my vehicle anyday.

Indeed!

 

[Joe Tiano]

...so far it's been a great thread...so what happend?? what does his EARS got to say about it ....and think...this is only a couple of octives were talk'n here