Pops and cuts out when accelerating, need help with diagnostics

jerod

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2004
Hey all, I'm an old member here (new name since I lost my email and password) and am just now getting back into this car of mine. I've had it a long time and it's been sitting for a lot of years now. the last time I remember it running correctly was in 2004. It has 73k but was rebuilt due to a spun rod 20kmiles ago. It is stock with a few bolt-on's:

Adj fuel reg.
cold air kit
adj wastegate
new MAF

The shop where it was painted ran diagnostics on it and tracked the prb down to the calpack (sound right?), the smaller chip on the ECM. They checked the plugs, wires, vacuum lines, etc in which I trust what they say since the owner also has a GN and helped me pick mine out back in 98. The only reason he didn't swap out the chip is that it's not made by GM any more. He did put his aftermarket performance chip in mine and said it ran much better, but it still ran rough.

I got an ECM off ebay and have been running it with my chips, my ECM with the chips off the one I bought, and basically trying every combination I can think of with these two. One combination idles better but they all do the same thing when driving. I do believe that the smaller chip in mine isn't working right though.

I just need to know what else I can look for and try. I'll be uploading a video of it going down the street so all can hear just how much it cuts out and pops. It's like I can't give it any throttle to pick up speed. I can only just ease into it and maybe get up to 40mph or so.

I'll be finishing this car within in a month and need to get it running right before September. Aside from paying someone to make it right, I'd like to figure try myself first.

Youtube link


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You still have the stock injectors and fuel pump? How old is the gas in the tank? What condition is the battery in? Is it new?

Am i reading your post right when you said, the car hasn't ran correctly since 2004? Did you have the car hauled to the paint shop?
 
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What is your check engine light telling you? What code/s.

Sent from my QMV7A tablet via Tapatalk.
 
New maf? Is it an auto zonereplacement? Or are you running a late model maf w translator?
 
My $.02. If you don't already have one, get a Scanmaster, post up the readings, respond to the others questions. Once there's some real info, there can be some help sent. Until then, it's just guesswork.
 
The light that came on momentarily on the left side of the dash is for the brakes.

It would be nice to know what code/s the ses light indicates.
 
Followed what everyone here said and found out most of the problems. I got it running pretty good, but not perfect yet. It turns out that I kept blowing off the MAP vacuum line so I'm going to replace all of the vacuum hoses this week. I also replaced the MAP sensor, and found that a wire on my MAF sensor was cracked and not connecting. I still have the engine light on, but I can at least drive it to where I'll be finishing up the restore. Thanks all for the help, I'm sure I'll be back for more! here is a glimpse of what I'm working on....

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Looks good...double check positive & negative wires from the battery-follow them all the way to the starter (the positive has a tendency to ground out on the heat shield when installing down pipes) and the negative all the way to the block.
 
Bad gas....And the ECM makes run so much better. I took it down the interstate today, to a friends shop so we can finish the interior and brake upgrade, it was the first time in ten years and felt great! It ran pretty good but popped really bad at a stop light and died. Then I couldn't get it started so I let it set for 20min and put more gas in. I saw that it blew off three vacuum lines so I bought a new hose kit and am now waiting for them to come in. After messing with both ECMs and chips I had it finally started. I figured out what combination worked and then suffenly the check engine which was always on went away! Now it idles smoothly, I just need better vacuum lines.
 
The car looks good! Don't forget to insure you place the check valves in the proper direction, they can cause the vac. lines to blow off.
 
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