Please Walk Me Thru a Proper Head Gasket Job

B

Blown&Injected

Active Member
Joined
May 31, 2001
I hesitate to use the word lucky when I got a blown HG, but no coolant got into the engine – no mixing of oil and coolant.

Is it cool to just replace the one gasket with the same type of gasket, change the fluids and plugs, and of course learn what cause the problem in the first place.?

Also, would it be bad to use studs on just the one side. I do not believe even the ARP head bolts can be reused?

Anything I should be doing and or checking considering the motor is apart? I plan to verify the timing marks since the #1 piston is staring me in the face.
 
If your motor is apart why not replace both head gaskets . Remove oil pan and perform cleaning. Use arp or stock head bolts call it a day.
 
I only took the one head off and was hoping I would not have to take the head off the right side too. If it were all apart or on a stand, I certainly would go through it all and would not be asking about studs just on one side. I am thinking about what the dealer would do if a car were brought in for such a repair – probably just the one head.

The block and head surface do not appear to have suffered. I hope just a good cleaning is all that is needed?

Now I got to recall where I some heavy duty head gasket "kit". It sounds like I have more work to do...
 
If it were me, I would have the head or heads checked to see if they warped any.
 
Its really your decision. Others have certainly done only one side and not had any problems. Do one side and see how it turns out. You can always go back and do the other side at a later date.
 
Other factors too consider. Have the heads ever been off? If its not a daily driver and time is not a factor, and the heads are original, I'd consider both sides along with replacing the valve springs while getting the heads checked out.
I always pull the lifters and check the base for unusual wear. But then I don't know your motors history so I'm just naming off things that I did to mine. To me its just piece of mind.
 
I agree with doing both.
Just a couple of questions to help you diagnose.
Which cylinder blew? Passengers side? Drivers side? Front middle or back? I'm betting either a back end or a middle into the valley. Both very common.
And what was going on that caused it? WOT and kabloom white cloud of death? Or just driving along like a normal citizen and boom white cloud of death?
What's the combo?
Stock intake and stock plenum?
Do you have a Scanmaster and were you monitoring the O2 and knock when the "Event" took place? If so, what were your numbers?

Something caused the lean condition that's for sure. And there are many potential causes to go over. Some of these include: low battery voltage issue, (not enough voltage to the pump, injectors and ignition can cause a lean condition) bad fuel issue or not enough fuel, too much boost for grade of fuel issue, leaning out the back cylinder/cylinders issue. These are just a few for starters. It happens to the best of us so don't let it get you down. Stick with it. And as far as ARP bolts not being re-usable, that's not true. Over the years, the general consensus was, ARP head bolts could be reused two times for sure. Three times was pushing it. Studs are always reusable but they're not the most friendly to deal with if you're pulling the passengers side head with the engine in the car. ARP made a change to the studs over the last 10 years and have the tops keyed for an allen wrench. So you can remove the studs completely. Regarding gaskets, I've always preferred Victor graphite stock style gaskets on a stock replacement build, with Cometics getting the nod for serious hp builds.
You've come to the right place for help, as most of us have all had this happen. I think my tally was 3 back in the day and I always replaced them both using graphite stock style gaskets. This was way before technology caught up and helped us out though.

-Patrick-
 
Take the head and get it cut flat they will always have a .001 or so off. Do it right! And clean clean clean the mating surfaces.
 
turbo nasty said:
Take the head and get it cut flat they will always have a .001 or so off. Do it right! And clean clean clean the mating surfaces.
Click to expand...

Agreed! I spent what felt like eternity cleaning the mating surfaces. Then when I thought it looked clean, I cleaned it a little more.
 
When you get the head off, pop out a few valves and look at the valve job.....


....that should make your mind up whether or not you want to pull the other head. The weak original springs pretty much take out the valve job (esp on the exhaust seats).



I would recommend a 3 angle valve job, bowl porting, backcut the exhaust valves, and going back with stock type gaskets.

It's only a little bit more work to do both heads, but while you're there the head work will be a nice performance bump for you.
 
Blown&Injected said:
Is it cool to just replace the one gasket with the same type of gasket,
Click to expand...
No.on top of what the Other members have said with regards to the milling of heads and putting new valves in,look at your fuel system, fuel pump, wiring, and have the injectors cleaned or get new ones.
 
I think you already know the answer on what you should do. Its the little voice in the back of your head saying "psst...do it the right way". Just kidding. But if you are already there, i would just take both heads off and have a good look at them make sure all the seats area good. Put new gaskets on and you are done.
 
I should have provided more information.

The engine was rebuilt about 11 years ago with graphite head gaskets, and the car was stripped down for paint about 10 years ago but life circumstances have had the car on the back burner for the past 10 years. I bolted the driver’s seat in and have been putting a tank or two of gas through the car every year. It makes it hard to remember where I stopped working on the car.

There are behive springs and the heads were fully rebuilt and ported. Used new ARP bolts so I am good to reuse them a second time.

It blew at the number 3 at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions: into the lifter valley and near the headers – no coolant passages were compromised, no coolant in the oil or white fog out the tail pipes.

I was not reading anything on the primitive scan tool I have because I was not doing anything drastic. I was on the throttle ever so slightly, maybe 5 PSI, as if I was in traffic and moving to the left last lane for a smooth and easy pass, 2 or 3 seconds, probably just enough that the converter unlocked but no down shift. Let off the throttle and then BANG! Pop, pop, pop, pop. No smoke, just noise. Stopped the car after two minutes, checked the oil…drove it home 15 minutes – stayed just below 160*.

Just a few minutes earlier I punched it in 2nd gear for about 3 seconds. No knock and O2’s stuck on .790, 23 PSI on 93 octane + Alky. It smoked the old cold tires on a cold road = running great…so I thought.
 
Thanks for the help, ideas, and things to think about.

About the Intake: the EGR is blocked off and the tower is cut down to the floor but not blocked off. Also port matched to the heads. Wondering if I need to do more about the EGR.
 
Blown&Injected said:
Thanks for the help, ideas, and things to think about.

About the Intake: the EGR is blocked off and the tower is cut down to the floor but not blocked off. Also port matched to the heads. Wondering if I need to do more about the EGR.
Click to expand...
If your EGR is blocked then you'll want to use the 84/85 GN Felpro intake gaskets. They do not have the cutout for the EGR port.
 
Since you drove 15 minutes on a blown gasket, you might have flame cut your deck and head in those two areas.
 
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